2004 Sunnybrook DC power mystery

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Boca1212

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Joined
Mar 1, 2015
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6
I continue to have a 12V issue that I cannot pin down - the converter has 13.5 on the out put the battery is at 12.5- the Refrigerator controls and power antenna will cause a fault... although when I turn on lights within 10 or 15 minutes they will begin to blink and then go out and will not come back on until I either open and close the knife blade disconnect at the 12v distribution fuse box - or unplug and re plug in the converter. I have had this occur with 1 light on or  several lights on - all fuses are fine - I have checked the grounds on several light where I can get to the them
I'm stumped - I don't want to change the converter unless I know that is the problem- they are non-returnable.

Not sure what to check next - any suggestions will be  greatly appreciated. :-\

 
Your converter sounds as though its working, based on what you say, but the power isn't reaching the batteries or the 12v power panel. What make & model of converter is it? Is it the type that has the converter integrated with the 120v and 12v power panel, or a separate "deck mount" converter? I would be looking at how the power gets out of the converter and into the wiring system & battery.
 
I was hoping I would hear from you  ;D
It is a separate deck mount Intelli Power 9100 series  PD9155

I had a previous post and I was thinking at the time my 120 was not working but it is fine.

Note - I'm always on shore power as I'm anchored to the ground on my farm.
My system has a power monitor which looks like it has a lead going to the 120 breaker panel on the opposite side of the wall - the converter is mounted next to the conditioner and it plugs into a 120 outlet which is next to the 120 breaker panel - there are two pairs of Red and White wires exiting the Converter - I'm assuming one set goes the battery and the other set to the small 12v fuse panel also on the opposite side of the wall but mounted up in linen closet.

What has me stumped is the lights will work for sometimes as much as 30 minutes and then flash - flash -- flash --- flash and go out - I go to the fuse disconnect (knife blade) and open and close and then most times all lights work again -

I disconnected the Neg lead on the battery last Sunday and all was working when I left - I will see when I go back if my problem persist with the battery out of the loop.

Thanks
Danny
 
Something is a weak connection. I would start at the knife switch. Being that seems to change things back to functional. I would also check voltage on both side of the knife switch and see where the voltage drop to zero.
 
You said that the converter output reads 13.5 VDC and the Battery 12.5 VDC.  That is with the battery disconnected from the converter, right?  If the readings were with the battery and converter connected together, the readings will be basically the same.  If the readings are not the same, then the battery is not connected to the to the converter or there is a bad connection somewhere between the converter output and the battery.  Is this a converter that has recently been installed?

After the lights go out, what is the voltage reading at the output of the converter?  The input and load side of the knife switch?  The buss side of the DC fuses?  The output side of the light fuse in question?

https://www.progressivedyn.com/CONVERTER_MANUAL.pdf

Jim



 
Good suggestions - I will take the advise as soon as go back out to the farm, hopefully this weekend

The 13.5 converter and 12.5 battery... these were readings with the battery in the loop so there was a difference while the converter was connected to the battery.

And No the Converter is not new - at least I have not changed it and I have owned the camper 2 years now.

Some of these reading I have not checked yet but I certainly will

Thanks again - I will let y'all know what's up
 
It (the disparate measurements) might happen with a bad battery and marginal wiring (short might cause the converter to shut down?), but it does sound like a bad connection.

Ernie
 
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