Have heated tanks, sealed underbelly- live in fulltime - have to winterize?

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bigtoe

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Here's the deal, we are fulltimers in a fifth wheel.? We are in cold Nebraska - and are headed home for the week for Thanksgiving.? We are going to stay hooked up - heated tanks, sealed underbelly, will leave furnace on at 55 degrees.? Is there a need to winterize?? Please help ASAP!!!!
Sorry, I need to clarify - we are leaving the fifth wheel in Nebraska while we leave.  Hopefully that will help.................
 
The weather in Lincoln NE looks fairly decent this week.  Nothing below 25 this week, 19 is the lowest temp expected this month

A Class A with enclosed heated tanks when occupied is usually good down to around 20 before you have to start taking special measures  Those are opening drawers and low cabnets to give the warm air more chance to get at the plumbing  This extends you down a few degrees more.

I "Tossed" (Carefully) a string of C-9 Christmas tree bulbs in the fresh water compartment (under the water tank) that's over 150 watts, of course it only works when I have electricity and am parked.  By the way.. I should be in NE this weekend  Lincoln area and one other town a couple hours away

If you wonder which town, it's Pender, where the Ox is Blue

(Blue Ox | One Mill Rd. | Industrial Park | Pender, NE 68047)
 
I just talked to a rep from Keystone RV about a Mountaineer 5th wheel we're looking at buying. He said on that model they are good down to about 15 degrees with the furnace on.  I think I'd leave it on about 70 rather than turning it down though. A little extra gas is a lot cheaper than frozen pipes.
 
Remember you probably have some points where water lines are exposed. One area is the tank drains, city water inlet & outside shower (if equipped). Another possible one is the water feed for an icemaker, which often runs up through the fridge outside vent area. You need to protect these somehow. A 75W light bulb is one easy way to give them a bit of warmth. 15W will do if the area is small and enclosed.
 
Just a thought but has anyone thought of wrapping the pipes in heat trace, Much better coverage than a light bulb. Just a thought.
 
Heat tapes work fine where you can get them on, but the waste valve & water inlet area can be awkward or partially inaccessible. Some pipes/tubes may be behind panels, which are nice for appearance but tough if you want to wrap them.
 
Just read a sticker on the rv, I have heated tanks, I guess, I have no literature on this at all. I went through all the paperwork. Do these heated tanks have a thermostat that automatically turns on, I havent found a switch. I have a keystone hornet. I know it must be plugged in to operate. Any thoughts...
 
Found out this morning that 27 degrees (F) or about -3 (C) is not a problem with my Damon if the furnace is running.

It was, however a problem for the water hose (minor, it froze but did not burst)   

I'll be using storage tank till I leave,,, I topped it off yesterday
 
wylecoyote said:
Just read a sticker on the rv, I have heated tanks, I guess, I have no literature on this at all. I went through all the paperwork. Do these heated tanks have a thermostat that automatically turns on, I havent found a switch. I have a keystone hornet. I know it must be plugged in to operate. Any thoughts...
Click to expand...

I was told on 2003 and newer Keystone Mountaineer's that the tanks and pipes are heated via the enclosed belly and the way the furnace ducts are routed. They quit using tank heaters so there is no switch to turn on & off.  Supposedly they're just designed to keep some heat in the tank and pipe areas. The Keystone rep. claimed they're good to about 15 degrees F. I don't know if your Hornet is the same or not.
I suppose in any case it depends on how windy it is and how long it stays in the 15 - 20's. If it just drops to a low of 15 and starts warming back up things aren't as likely to freeze as if it stays around 15 for several hours.
 
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