Has anyone figured out a way to keep the solenoid water valve to the ice maker f

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WILDEBILL308

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Has anyone figured out a way to keep the solenoid water valve to the ice maker from freezing? It is in the compartment with the refrigerator and not much protection.
I found the solenoid water valve to the ice maker leaking. Must have frozen during the last cold spell on the trip back to Fort Worth from Pharr Texas. The weather went from 82 in Pharr to 23 west of Austin on 281 where we decided to get off the road as it was sleeting. I checked around the usual local RV places and they all wanted about $50.00 plus tax. Went on Amazon and got one for $23.00 shipped.
Not a hard job about 15 minutes after I got the part. 
The part that took longer than changing the valve was cleaning up the rats nest of wires in this area.  I just string tied the worst of it, making sure no wires were rubbing on sharp edges. Only found 4 places where the wires were run over sharp edges, 2 places the water line was rubbing on sharp metal. I still have to find a couple of small artist brushes to paint the drip tray and rest of bay.



After


Bill
 
Bill,

Our 01 Southwind with a Dometic has a heater wire that runs up the supply tube to the back of the frig.  The end at the valve had excess wrapped around the valve and covered with the silver tape.  I think it is DC but not sure.  We were in freezing weather with it the first couple of winters and didn't have a problem ... of course the frig was on the whole time.  Another winter when we winterized it did freeze and leak.  I haven't found a good way to be sure all the water is out of that line and valve when I do winterize.  Haven't had the water on yet this year, so don't know how I did last year.  Guess I need to take some time and verify the power and how to jump it when blowing the lines out to be sure.

By the way, were you an R&E in  a previous life?  ???    Most wiring on these drives me nuts ... although I learned to not do too much cleanup unless it's really needed ... can create more problems.  ;D

Howard
 
When you winterize open the low point drains.  Have shore or generator active and cycle the ice maker

If you winterize by the dry method you can then cycle it again while blowing.

The first "Trick" should clear it and it's lines of water

The second one will if the first one did not.

You do have to know how to force cycle the thing.
 
I disconnect the water lines on both sides of the solenoid when I blow the lines out. Draining the water above the solenoid leaves room for expansion of the little bit of water left in the valve itself.  I used to have to reseat the the inner seal in the solenoid every spring and once had to replace the solenoid (Norcold 1200), but since I started opening to line above the solenoid as well as below it, I haven't had a problem. Caveat: my part of Florida gets only a few sub-freezing nights a year, so not a good test of my procedure.

Norcold has a TSB on the ice maker solenoid that discusses re-seating the valve after a freeze.
 
The Dometic standard method is exactly as described by Howard R above. My Dometic came from the factory equipped that way. My trailer came equipped with a low point drain for the ice maker feeder line itself although I am not sure how well it would work unless the line at the solenoid end were to be cracked open to allow air in while draining.

I have actually disabled the heater system here as there is little need for one in a trailer that lives in south west Florida!!
 
Howard R said:
Bill,

Our 01 Southwind with a Dometic has a heater wire that runs up the supply tube to the back of the frig.  The end at the valve had excess wrapped around the valve and covered with the silver tape.  I think it is DC but not sure.  We were in freezing weather with it the first couple of winters and didn't have a problem ... of course the frig was on the whole time.  Another winter when we winterized it did freeze and leak.  I haven't found a good way to be sure all the water is out of that line and valve when I do winterize.  Haven't had the water on yet this year, so don't know how I did last year.  Guess I need to take some time and verify the power and how to jump it when blowing the lines out to be sure.

By the way, were you an R&E in  a previous life?  ???    Most wiring on these drives me nuts ... although I learned to not do too much cleanup unless it's really needed ... can create more problems.  ;D

Howard
Click to expand...
Yes Howard in a previous life I use to build supersonic jets for fun and little profit on my part. Mainly the F-35, FA-22 and F16. Last job was the last station in Final assembly where we sold everything to the customer. 
If you need a new valve Amazon is a good place to find one. My valve was $23.00 shipped.
I have ben told there should be heat wire and aluminum tape on the valve and the line in but someone decided they didn't need it before me.
Bill
 
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