I NEED MORE POWER.....

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My advise would be to get a couple of $85 CG-2 6v golf cart batteries from Sams and a cheap Renogy 100w solar kit for $180. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DCEKKQ0?psc=1

Total invested about $350. That's about as bare bones as you can get. If you want to try just the solar kit to start, you can always upgrade your battery bank later. These batteries will hold 200 amp/hrs, of which plan on using about 100 amp/hrs per weekend for maximum life. That solar panel will take 2-3 sunny days to recharge this bank, but that's seems acceptable with your set-up.

Chip
 
Like myself I'm solar (400w)/hydro(200w) powered here at my stick and bricks. Then my RV is also solar powered with a cheap Harbor Freight solar panel (40w) and inverter (1,200w). I've got a free standing solar panels so the RV can be parked in the shade and the panels can be placed in the sun. This why I don't need A/C while I'm boondocking. There is no noise. I love the idea of laying back in the couch and watching TV for a few hours, or maybe using my laptop and doing a bit of work, or maybe just charge my other stuff like cell phone or tablet. I might not have the optimal setup but still in all I have a charging source and 120V power through out the RV in all outlets. Most people are shock to see it.
 
You can probably do what you described with a decent size solar panel (100-140 watts) and a deep cycle battery of about 100-120 Amp-hours (AH) capacity. A but more battery capacity would be better though - people nearly always underestimate their total power needs. The panel, controller and wiring will probably run $200-$300,plus another $100-$200 for the battery(s)

Solar kit: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM


I've never seen a true deep cycle battery at Walmart, but they do have marine & trolling motor types that might give you a couple years of service is maintained carefully.  See my article on battery types:
http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Choosing_right_battery.pdf
 
So I really need something that is PLUG AND PLAY.  I don't want to be screwing things into my camper roof (I don't even know how to do that without making holes into the camper for water to come in) or installing converters or invertors or whatever in the under belly of the beast. 

If I could find something that I pull out and set outside somewhere (on hitch or ground) then just clip direct to battery that would be ideal.

What about something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-50048-60W-Solar-Charging/dp/B000CIADLG/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1430494210&sr=8-13&keywords=rv+solar+starter+kit
OR
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Portable-Folding-Battery-Charging/dp/B00JX3XKFC/ref=sr_1_11?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1430494252&sr=1-11&keywords=rv+solar+kit
 
Basically those are nothing more than a trickle charger.  To recharge batteries via solar you really need a minimum of 120 watts and preferably 250-300 watts plus a good charge controller
 
thcguy12 said:
So I really need something that is PLUG AND PLAY.  I don't want to be screwing things into my camper roof (I don't even know how to do that without making holes into the camper for water to come in) or installing converters or invertors or whatever in the under belly of the beast. 

If I could find something that I pull out and set outside somewhere (on hitch or ground) then just clip direct to battery that would be ideal.

What about something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-50048-60W-Solar-Charging/dp/B000CIADLG/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1430494210&sr=8-13&keywords=rv+solar+starter+kit
OR
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Portable-Folding-Battery-Charging/dp/B00JX3XKFC/ref=sr_1_11?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1430494252&sr=1-11&keywords=rv+solar+kit
I think you're getting close to something that will work.  But the Renogy that Gary and SushiDog mentioned puts out more power than the portable units you mentioned and it's cheaper.  I have one.  You don't have to mount it on the roof.  You can very cheaply build your own stand for it and tuck the controller under your rig where it won't get wet.  You don't get much benefit out of the portable units since you won't be connecting/disconnecting frequently - just once a year.  As long as you have some decent sunlight within 20' of your battery and your rig is somewhere that your solar stuff won't get stolen, you'll be in good shape.  That is, your battery will be charged when you arrive.  Of course, make sure you have no draws on your battery while you're away.
 
It is so interesting how everyone works different.  Took my RV over to the local RV place today to have it checked out before it heads off for duty. 

They installed a new deep cell battery.  Filled the two standard propane tanks.  Started and tested water pump, sinks, heater, tanks. etc.  We filled and emptied and sanitized the tanks.  They were impressed that not much needed work.  A tiny leak in the grey water tube right next to the dump area and we fixed that right up.

Several people there (who work at an rv dealership) said that running the following my battery should last all summer and I would be lucky to go through one tank of propane.  They said if I want to invest in a trickle solar charger fine but def. not needed. 

Lights at night only  (four days a month - only after dark)
Heater (at night only - four days a month)
Fridge (four days a month total)
Water pump (four days a month - only when running water - turn off after)

They did say NOT TO run the stereo or charge things like cell phones or speakers - that will kill battery fast. 

I guess we will see - we take it up next weekend. 
 
Lighting kills the batteries quicker. I'm in the process of converting to LED I got the bathroom done. Now for the rest of the RV. Furnace is another big power consumer that will eat through the batteries quickly. Fridge and water heater take very very little power and will run on a set of charged batteries for weeks. But lights and the furnace they will eat through the batteries rather quickly. Solar panels will handle the charging fairly well depending on how many panels your willing to buy and of what quality.

They did say NOT TO run the stereo or charge things like cell phones or speakers - that will kill battery fast. 

I love a good chuckle. To this day I leave my cell phone plugged into the power point in my pickup because there is no sense in taking into the house. There is no cell service where I live so I have to travel to get cell service. My first set of battery in my truck lasted 10 years with my cell phone plugged in all the time. Also there is spans of time where my truck is left sitting in the shop for week at a time. I've been known to leave the 400w inverter plugged in and leave my laptop charging in the truck for day. No issues. Just depends on the loads you plan on powering and for how long. Trick is with my cell phone and laptop once it charged up it doesn't draw any power.

Most of my RV use is boondocking so I have a good grasp on how much my 2 little deep ccle batteries will power and for how long.
 
I put a 16 inch car muffler on my grandson's 10 HP Briggs and Stratton generator. Its quieter than any Honda I've heard and cost 3/4 less. Fabricated a removable muffler guard out of expanded metal. It all fit inside power mates frame. He claims he can barely hear it running when he's in his 5 th wheel..
 
Something I haven't heard mentioned is security.  In my neck of the woods a solar panel system would probably get legs while being out in the boonies for a week at a time unprotected. I'm not even sure the battery would be there when I got back.  I think I would start with just the battery and take it home for charging each time. To each his own.
 
thcguy12 said:
It is so interesting how everyone works different.  Took my RV over to the local RV place today to have it checked out before it heads off for duty. 

They installed a new deep cell battery.  Filled the two standard propane tanks.  Started and tested water pump, sinks, heater, tanks. etc.  We filled and emptied and sanitized the tanks.  They were impressed that not much needed work.  A tiny leak in the grey water tube right next to the dump area and we fixed that right up.

Several people there (who work at an rv dealership) said that running the following my battery should last all summer and I would be lucky to go through one tank of propane.  They said if I want to invest in a trickle solar charger fine but def. not needed. 

Lights at night only  (four days a month - only after dark)
Heater (at night only - four days a month)
Fridge (four days a month total)
Water pump (four days a month - only when running water - turn off after)

They did say NOT TO run the stereo or charge things like cell phones or speakers - that will kill battery fast. 

I guess we will see - we take it up next weekend.

thc...mountains? Are you here in Colorado?

Every trailer/ user are different in their needs. Our single battery made it three days with below freezing temps at night but we were extremely conservative too. After three days I use jumper cables and the truck for a hour or so a night to make sure the furnace kept running. Worked in a pinch but not something I'd want to do normally.

We did get a generator for the next year and you are right. i don't care if it is a open frame or the quietest inverter generator, it is senseless to go through the effort to find the spots, drive all that way and then listen to a generator. Add in that the generator wont completely recharge your battery in a few hours, the last 10% takes forever and that's a lot of gas for very little.

We switched to LED lighting that cost $1.79 each "bulb". That meant we could light up the trailer end to end for less power than running a few incandescent bulbs. We used a portable solar set up that we set out while camping, it not only recharged the battery after the nightly run of furnace but covered many small loads during the day when the battery didn't need as much charge. ( it tapers as it gets fuller.)  The thing is i also brought the battery home to be put on a plug in charger not because the solar couldn't fully charge it but because it is critical for ANY battery to be fully recharged and kept that way when not in use. Otherwise you lose capacity. Once I mount my system this wont be an issue as it will always have the time to bring the batteries back up.

That portable was a single 230w panel, 10 awg wire and a controller. Close to the same as the 200w kits you find on ebay for around $300 including shipping. I used a pair of pine slats and C-clamps as legs and you could with those kits too. Again the issue I see would be getting the battery charged up enough before you came home unless you mounted the system. Portables can follow the sun and produce more because of it, but they produce nothing when stored away.

A trickle charger is intended to keep a fully charged battery that has no loads from self discharging. They are generally so little power that they can't recharge your battery at all.

Rv fridges take quite a while to cool down. Go up Saturday morning and fire it up, it will be later that day before it cools down. You may be better of with a cooler for a one day trip. When we decide to go spur of the moment I will start the fridge and put a gallon and few half gallon frozen jugs in it. That keeps the food cold while the fridge catches up.

If you are in Colorado and near the Denver metro area I may be able to help you out. I'll send a PM.
 
powderman said:
Something I haven't heard mentioned is security.  In my neck of the woods a solar panel system would probably get legs while being out in the boonies for a week at a time unprotected. I'm not even sure the battery would be there when I got back.  I think I would start with just the battery and take it home for charging each time. To each his own.

You must live in the wrong area. Out here is common practice to take your RV and park it out in the woods for hunting and come visit it on the weekends. Like in the near future it will be common place to see RV's parked along the highway for weeks for Salmon season. Most of these people bring solar panels and set out when their using the RV and store them back inside when they leave. Because in some cases it just bad deal to use generators being fuel and noise could be a issue depending on how far town is from camp. Like during Steelhead season It was really cool to see two RV's parked along the highway in wide spots with their solar panels out. I gave the owner a BIG thumbs up for that.
 
Here is a awesome example of boondocking on the Salmon River for Riggins, ID Rodeo Weekend. Mine is a bit more user friendly but this is very common to see out here.
 

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thcguy12 said:
Several people there (who work at an rv dealership) said that running the following my battery should last all summer and I would be lucky to go through one tank of propane.  They said if I want to invest in a trickle solar charger fine but def. not needed. 

Lights at night only  (four days a month - only after dark)
Heater (at night only - four days a month)
Fridge (four days a month total)
Water pump (four days a month - only when running water - turn off after)

They did say NOT TO run the stereo or charge things like cell phones or speakers - that will kill battery fast. 

They sound like they do work an RV dealership, based on some of the nonse... err, "advice" I have heard at RV dealerships.

The average cell phone charger, one that plugs into a cigarette lighter in a car, draws about 5 watts when fully charging. That is less than .5 amp at 12v. The heater draws more than that, at around 3.5 amps or over 40 watts.. So to me it is bizarre to be warning about charging a cell phone or bluetooth speaker but not warning about running the heater.

Even the fridge, when on propane, will be close to what a cellphone charger uses. Speaking of the fridge, if you only run it 1 day it will spend most of that day getting down to temperature. If you are regularly opening the door during that time it may never get down to its normal operating temperature.

But like you said, you will find out, either way.



Michael
 
When we had our 23' TT we went to the Tractor Pull from Thurs thru Sun.  I had 2 regular deep cycle boat batteries and an el-cheapo $75 solar panel from J.C. Whitney.  With it being sunny everyday this was more then enough to run the fridge full time on propane, lights and TV in the A.M. during breakfast and lights at night before going to sleep, so it is possible to do it el-cheapo for just a weekend stay like the OP wants to do.
 
Being the camera was handy I ran out to grab a few fresh pictures...

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Now look on the left of the 120 breaker panel you can see a silver switch stem. That's my transfer switch to transfer power from the inverter to the outlets or city power to the outlets. 12 volt fuse panel is on the left. Charge converter is all the way against the wall. With the solar controller and inverter forward. Nothing special just harbor freight 1200 watt inverter and 40 watt solar kit. Solar panel just fit under the bed for storage.
 

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That seems complex - or at least more than I know how to do. 

I am literally needing something I just attach to battery for $225 or less.

 
thcguy12 said:
That seems complex - or at least more than I know how to do. 

I am literally needing something I just attach to battery for $225 or less.

Exactly all this is...
The solar controller is just wired back into the 12 volt fuse panel. (Positive and negative)
The inverter is just wired to the batteries on its own fuse and wire. (8 AWG wire to the battery for positive and a 8 AWG wire through the floor for frame ground.)

The only thing I went extra on the transfer switch because its a pain in the tail to pull a extension cord around the round from the cabinet under the cook stove.

The solar panel have a pipe container under the coach that stores the cord for the panels. Just plug in. Now walk inside flip on the solar controller. Then flip on the inverter and toggle the transfer switch and there is power through out the RV. All outlets are now hot.

http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-68751-8527.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-watt-continuous2000-watt-peak-power-inverter-60704-9815.html

Right close to your budget...
 
I know that sounds easy to you - most of what you just said I don't understand.

Looks like I need to install some items inside the camper first off - how do you get chords inside the camper. 

Looks like some items need to be screwed down or to walls - not something I can handle honestly. 

I don't plan on opening any fuse pannels inside - don't even know where those are to be honest.  I want to connect to the battery outside where I know where it is. 

Sounds like then I have a whole other piece (an inverter - not sure what that is) that then needs more wires I have to buy and run outside to inside.  All so overwhelming. 



 

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