Where to order brake lines?

Hi everyone!
I have a 1990 Winnie SuperChief (34RA?), on what I *THINK* is a F53 chassis (there's an F53 in the VIN).

I've been living in it for the past 10 months or so parked and "tethered" to my hurricane sandy damaged stick house.
Since I can't move her easily, I at least start her up once a week, making sure to also pump the brakes in the hopes that nothing will seize while sitting.

Well...yesterday as I was doing this she blew the driver's side front rubber brake line.

I obviously need this fixed, but need to know what part numbers (may as well do both sides just to be sure!) I need to order new ones.
As I live in NYC my local auto parts guys have no idea how to look this up, and quite frankly, neither do I.

Is anyone familiar with this particular rig, and can you you point me to a parts manual?
It would be MUCH appreciated!
Thanks.

Also, would anyone in/near NYC know of any mobile RV mechanics?

I think I *MAY* have found the correct lines at Rockauto.com, but was hoping someone could tell me if I'm correct before I order?

RAYBESTOS Part # BH38947    Professional Grade  One of our most popular parts
Front Right
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=571585&cc=1367344&jnid=510&jpid=6

RAYBESTOS Part # BH38948    Professional Grade  One of our most popular parts
Front Left
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=571586&cc=1367344&jnid=510&jpid=13

We would just be guessing. You need to get the VIN decoded and then verify what brakes/hoses match that chassis. Odds are it is an F53 (is it a Ford engine and tranny?), but the John Deere chassis also used Ford engines.  How did you decide those were the right ones? Nothing at that link identifes what chassis they fit.

Once the chassis is identified, a NAPA or Carquest store should be able to identify the correct parts for it. Autozone and Advance, maybe not so much chance of getting help with that chassis. O'Reilly's is a maybe.

Gary,
  I was under the impression that if there an "F53" in the VIN that's it's an F53 frame?
Also, when I ran the VIN before I purchased it, the carfax came back as in the photo attached.

I was unable to find any 1990 SuperChief  manuals or brochures online, but I did find one for 1991 which, if I match the layout plans, told me that I have the 34RA model.
(It won't let me attach the brochure PDF file. I think it's too large?)

From that I was able to deduce that I have the Ford 460 engine.

At least I *THINK* I have that all correct?

So I went to RockAuto and looked under Ford, the F53, and came up with these parts.
I just didn't want to order until someone could help me verify.

Again, I appreciate the help!

{EDIT} The only reason I'm not 100% certain about the specs is that brochure says that the Ford chassis/motor was optional and the Chevy was standard.

Appears you have already had the VIN decoded, and did the parts look-up for the corresponding chassis. In another words, what I suggested. Go for it!

To double-check, I entered it in the Ford Fleet VIN decoder here:
http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/vin-decoder/
and it agrees with what you posted in that image.

Gary,
  Thanks so much for double checking for me!
Now just to find someone to help me install them

Enjoy your week!

We use a 25 or 50 foot rool of whatever brake line you need in a copper infused steel that bends by hand and won't rust. Any car parts store should have it, then we reuse the end fittings or replace with new. You need a brake line shaping tool to form the correct end the fitting uses. Also any good shop would/should know how to do this, the brake line comes in all your general sizes; 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8".

Jere and Laur
If there was any way for me to have the rig towed anywhere I would have gladly paid someone else to do this.
As it stands, she's parked on a VERY small street in NYC, and can just barely make the turn to get off the block, and out of the neighborhood, when she's running under her own steam.
There's simply no way to make that turn if you also have to add the length of a towing vehicle.

And since it has no brakes....well I'm sure you see where the problem lies

So she has to get fixed where she sits.

The flex lines are easy to replace knock the clips out, replace, bleed brakes. You don't have to remove calipers or wheel cylinders to do it. If you can' find some one to pump the pedal you can use self bleeders.

Bill

Bill, yes it SHOULD be a simple enough job, but with anything this old what I'm worried about is breaking anything else while trying to fix this issue.

I've attached a pic of where the front driver's side hose gave out.
My fear is that the connection BEHIND that bracket is just as bad and will break if touched.
Then I'll have an even worse problem to try and fix.  :-[

If it's that tender, better to have it break while fixing it than have it let go hurtling down the road.

Bill

driftless shifter said:

If it's that tender, better to have it break while fixing it than have it let go hurtling down the road.

Bill

Click to expand...

Bill, that's true, but at this point I'd prefer to just get this piece fixed then find a shop that I can drive her to that can give her whole brake line system a good looking over, so this WON'T happen again.

The problem is being in NYC I haven't yet been able to find anyone willing to do this!

If anyone has some local recommendations (I'm in southern Queens) I'm all ears!

Find a shop that works on medium duty trucks, think step vans and box trucks. The work you need done to repair this is not any different than doing it on a car, If you've done this work on a car or pick up it's basically the same, the parts and tools are just bigger and heavier. In fact there is more room to work than on a small car.

Bill

driftless shifter said:

Find a shop that works on medium duty trucks, think step vans and box trucks. The work you need done to repair this is not any different than doing it on a car, If you've done this work on a car or pick up it's basically the same, the parts and tools are just bigger and heavier. In fact there is more room to work than on a small car.

Bill

Click to expand...

Bill, yes, this is exactly what I've been trying to explain to my usual mechanics, but for my immediate problem I need this repaired where she sits and no one seems to do that anymore!
I've worked on cars in the past, although I've never done brake lines by myself, and in theory this job looks simple enough.
As a matter of fact, it looks like I can do the passenger side without even jacking the RV as I fit under there, sitting up, with no problem.
(one of the few times that being all of 5'4" is actually an advantage! )

The side that actually broke, the drivers side, is a different story because of all of the extra parts on that side.
If I CAN'T do it without removing the wheel, I'll need to buy or borrow TWO heavy duty jacks (mine went for a swim during Sandy and they've been low on my list of things to replace).
I'd need two because of the way she's sitting now, with only her passenger side up on leveling blocks because the other side is up on a curb.
She has a welded-on step to get in the driver's door, which necessitates lifting that side really high to get the tire off (unless the guy that changed my tires when I bought the new ones was doing it wrong?), and of course my fear with jacking only that side that high is a cracked windshield from the possible torsion.


My other worry, because I've seen way too many people do it, is breaking a part behind what I'm trying to fix simply because of it's age and rust.
The caliper ends of these lines look easy, it's the connections where the hose clips are that get iffier.

The 2nd package of parts (apparently both lines are coming from different warehouses!) may not be here until next Tuesday, so I have a few more days to try and find someone more experienced to help me with this.

Thanks for all of your input!

You could always go old skool on it and crimp the questionable section off with vices grips so the leak is diminished to a wee drop, Top off the reservoir and limp it to the shop for the repair. It is a risk, proceed with caution. Use flashers and drive slow, and be prepared for brakes pulling hard toward the right.

Bill

That is what I was going to suggest. It must have a dual master cylinder, so the rear brakes should still work and be able to get it to a shop driving slowly and carefully.

John & Bill,
  I may have to try that if I can't find someone to help me fix her here.
I'd feel a little better about doing it if it was a "flatter" drive, but there's a bridge I have to go over, with a sharp turn at the end, to get off of "my little island".
THAT might prove to be an interesting ride. LOL

Keep it in low gear and drive slow. You may also be able to use the parking brake.

Move it in the middle of the night, when the traffic is light and it's mostly drunks, or lunatics in motorhomes with faulty brakes that are out and about. 

Bill

driftless shifter said:

Move it in the middle of the night, when the traffic is light and it's mostly drunks, or lunatics in motorhomes with faulty brakes that are out and about. 

Bill

Click to expand...

Bill,
  Thanks, I needed that laugh!  ;D