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Author Topic: Compartment Rust Repair  (Read 2757 times)

cbeierl

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Compartment Rust Repair
« on: May 27, 2015, 03:34:42 PM »
I developed a serious rust problem along the bottom lip of the right rear compartment on my 2005 Vectra.  As you can see in the first photo the area circled in red is essentially falling apart, including the metal holding the right-hand door latch bracket.  The only thing holding it together is the plastic molding along the bottom.

To fix it I cut off the old compartment faceplate above the rusted area and then made a drawing of what I needed and took it down to a local sheetmetal fabricator.  They charged me $75 to make the new piece.  The new sheetmetal can be seen in the second photo, temporarily clamped into place.  Since I had clearance (from the door latch assembly on the inside of the door) to do so I made the bottom piece under the battery compartment a couple of inches taller to give me a little more structure there.

The third picture shows the new piece painted and installed, with a new plastic molding strip along the bottom.

The last picture shows the completed repair, with all new rubber seals applied.  I think it came out very well!
« Last Edit: May 27, 2015, 03:37:52 PM by cbeierl »
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

Rene T

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2015, 03:48:39 PM »
Nice job Chris. You are a pro.   ;D
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John Canfield

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2015, 03:54:07 PM »
Good job Chris!
--John
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Kevin Means

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2015, 06:37:46 PM »
Looks great! How did you attach it?

Kev
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cbeierl

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2015, 06:49:12 PM »
Looks great! How did you attach it?

Kev

It's attached the same way the original was--with 3/16" aluminum pop rivets into the vertical flanges of the righthand compartment and into the old piece and mounting bracket on the far left.  I used 2 layers of 3M Molding tape to match the thickness of the original rubbery seal between the compartment flanges and the faceplate.  I used some paintable latex caulk between the styrofoam edge of the compartment floor and the new faceplate.  There are three screws that go through the edge of the floor into the flange of the new sheetmetal and the plastic molding.  I also used a small steel backing plate as reinforcement behind the joint between old and new on the righthand side of each opening.  The joint itself was covered with aluminum duct sealing tape (subsequently painted) to seal the opening.
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

Kevin Means

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2015, 11:26:37 PM »
Very neat. Sounds (and looks) like you're a pro at that stuff.

Kev
2011 Winnebago Tour 42QD
Towing a Jeep Rubicon Unlimited LJ or an Acura MDX
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cbeierl

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2015, 11:49:33 PM »
Actually, this is the first time I've done anything like this--I was definitely nervous when I started cutting away the old sheet metal!
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

Art In Mobile

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2015, 04:10:38 PM »
Nice Job! Most of us will be doing some of that as Winnie has a problem in that area. I wonder if we can get the panels from Winne & paint them ourselves? Some like the compartments on the slide out side of mine would be a trick to replace. Art
Art in Mobile 2006 Voyage V-10 Ford

MikeworX

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2015, 06:32:12 AM »
That's a great question Art. My coach looks like its had some work done before. As well the rear bumper looks like it had a meet-up with a pole at some point. Does anyone know the availability of replacement panels / bumpers etc?
Mike
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1996 Winnebago Vectra Grand Tour
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John Hilley

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2015, 10:29:33 AM »
I think almost all parts are available from Winnebago. They may have to be manufactured from the molds and drawings they retain.
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cbeierl

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2015, 03:23:23 PM »
For those interested, here's the drawing I produced to give to the sheet metal fabricators.  (If anybody with a 36RD wants to do this same repair, please note that the righthand compartment cutout is actually drawn about 1/8" too far to the right of where it should be .)
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

SCVJeff

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2015, 02:58:38 PM »
Is that beach camping or road salt?
I've been cleaning and repainting mine from the salt air, but nothing that bad
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cbeierl

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2015, 03:32:15 PM »
Is that beach camping or road salt?
I've been cleaning and repainting mine from the salt air, but nothing that bad

I would say it's the road salt--hard to avoid that up here in New England.
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

Art In Mobile

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2015, 07:00:45 PM »
Mine has it bad and I live below the salt belt so for me road salt is out. When I removed and bead blasted some smaller parts under the generator I found no primer on the factory metal. I primed & painted with rattle can several years ago & still looks like new. I live 22 miles inland from the Gulf. Why does my cheap paint job hold up & factory's does not? They do a great job on their aluminum but not on their steel. Art
Art in Mobile 2006 Voyage V-10 Ford

RGrimm

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2015, 09:15:03 PM »
Chris - Great restoration job.  The compartment area looks like new now. Your fabrication reminds me of when I restored a 55 Thunderbird (in another live) and making new sheet metal parts for it.

-Russ
 
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cbeierl

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #15 on: September 14, 2017, 11:53:19 AM »
It's attached the same way the original was--with 3/16" aluminum pop rivets into the vertical flanges of the righthand compartment and into the old piece and mounting bracket on the far left.  I used 2 layers of 3M Molding tape to match the thickness of the original rubbery seal between the compartment flanges and the faceplate.  I used some paintable latex caulk between the styrofoam edge of the compartment floor and the new faceplate.  There are three screws that go through the edge of the floor into the flange of the new sheetmetal and the plastic molding.  I also used a small steel backing plate as reinforcement behind the joint between old and new on the righthand side of each opening.  The joint itself was covered with aluminum duct sealing tape (subsequently painted) to seal the opening.

Just an update on this info.  I just finished a similar repair on most of the left hand side of my coach.  Instead of the 3M Molding tape and latex caulk I used Butyl Putty Tape (Putty Tape / Butyl Tape 1/8" x 1" x 50' Black One 50ft Roll) between the new sheet metal and the flanges of the compartments and the styrofoam edge of the compartment floor.  This is the same material I used to seal the replacement shower skylight I had to install last year (old one cracked).
« Last Edit: September 14, 2017, 11:54:58 AM by cbeierl »
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

John Canfield

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #16 on: September 14, 2017, 05:52:04 PM »
Did you replace with aluminum panels or sheet steel?
--John
2005 Horizon 40AD, 2006 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
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cbeierl

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #17 on: September 14, 2017, 05:57:38 PM »
The same 0.060 galvanized steel on all repairs.
Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD

DutchEagle

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Re: Compartment Rust Repair
« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2017, 08:16:58 PM »
Great job Chris  :)) and I like your explanation and the pictures a lot!
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