Removing Complete Window With Frame To Install AC?

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AGENT86

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Jan 21, 2013
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WNC @ 3400 ft...Annd loving it
I need to install a window AC unit in my travel trailer. The only unit that will fit in the one window with an opening large enough is a very small "mini" unit and only 5,000 Btu's. I want at least an 8,000 BTU air conditioner. I was thinking that perhaps I can remove the whole window, including the surrounding window frame...UNLESS the individual glass panes (for lack of a better word) can be removed without damaging them.

Then cover the window with plywood & secure in place using slightly over-size interior wood frame that would be through-bolted to the exterior plywood. In essence "clamping" the exterior ply to the side of the RV. I would cut the proper size opening for whatever AC unit I bought.

I would support the unit from underneath at the front and back so no real weight would even be on the RV wall itself. I would seal the wood using silicone as it's easy to remove at a later date. Does this sound feasible? My only concern is whether I can remove the window without causing damage to the RV OR the window. I'm sure it can be done. Afterall, thee windows have to be removable to some degree in case of breakage. I'm just a bit insecure doing this without some more knowledgeable feedback.
 
It should be pretty easy to remove the window and frame as one unit - that's how it was installed at the factory.

You may find a series of screws around the inside perimeter frame.  These sandwich the inner and outer frames together, pressing them against the wall.  Remove them and the window frame will separate into two pieces.  Make sure someone is holding the outer piece with the glass in it so it doesn't fall out.

You may have to pry the outer frame away from the putty sealing it to the wall.

Another style uses screws on the outside frame to hold it against the wall.  If you have this style you'll have a piece of rubber trim in a channel to hide the screwheads.
 
I have a suggestion for your AC problem.  At least its one I plan to use should my overhead AC unit fail which happened on another trailer we owned.  I have an 8000 BTU room AC which is small perhaps 20" x 30" which fits very nicely into a corner in my 5 wheel and make a lot less noise than the overhead Dometic unit.  The room AC only has a vent pipe which can easily be place in the window and removed in less than a minute to close the window.  It is the simplest thing to set up.  If running on the slow speed it is very quiet and for me an ideal replacement for the Dometic unit.  The brand is Haier but I have seen them in GE, LG, Westinghouse, etc.  There is no water build up from the unit it simply blow warm air to the outside as it brings down the temp inside.  Just a thought.
 
I had considered that type AC unit. I just read so many mixed reviews it makes me very unsure. I see more negative than positive feedback on those units. We've been living in the Rockwood now since June 1st. The internal temp hovers around 72 between around 8 AM until one or two where it slowly creeps up as high as 77-79*

Toward sundown the internal temp begins to drop. After dark it gets downright chilly dropping to a cool 67* but I let it drop which keeps it cool longer as the day warms up. Of course it's not even true summer yet temperature wise. I'll have a window unit installed very soon. Looking at an 8000 BTU HAIER unit for the main area & a smaller unit for the bedroom....maybe 6000 BTU's.
 
If you install it in a side wall window it may make your TT a wide load. This could present a problem, 96" is acceptable most everywhere 102" is acceptable in a lot of regions. What I'm saying is you may get pulled over and your journey terminated until width is reduced to the acceptable limits.
Just saying.

Bill
 
Did you end up doing it? I want to do the exact same thing. How did you do it? Can you send photos?
 
Did you end up doing it? I want to do the exact same thing. How did you do it? Can you send photos?
Almost got me but the last post in that thread was 8 years ago and the original poster hasn't been here in over a year.

You might wanna start a new topic but I can say that my dying Class A had the Coleman 13.5 BTU over head go out about a month ago.

I had a 5,000 BTU window unit in my workshop. We installed it temporarily and it has been keeping the 31 footer cool enough in the hot but fully shaded Florida summer.
 
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I want to take out the window and replace it with plywood.
Removal of most RV windows is pretty simple but to know for sure about yours we need pictures of the inside and outside. Knowing what your RV is might also be helpful.

In general most RV windows are pushed into the opening from the outside with some ribbon caulking to prevent leaks. Once it is in place, a frame goes on the inside with screws every few inches and they are tightened until a little of the caulking is squeezed out all of the way around the outside frame. Taking one out typically requires 2 people, one inside and one outside.
 
Removal of most RV windows is pretty simple but to know for sure about yours we need pictures of the inside and outside. Knowing what your RV is might also be helpful.

In general most RV windows are pushed into the opening from the outside with some ribbon caulking to prevent leaks. Once it is in place, a frame goes on the inside with screws every few inches and they are tightened until a little of the caulking is squeezed out all of the way around the outside frame. Taking one out typically requires 2 people, one inside and one outside.
Removing the window is no issue. It is the regular window with the screws inside.
I want to replace it with plywood so i can fit a bigger window ac unit. The fitting plywood part is what i need help with, not removing the window. Thank you!
 
Removing the window is no issue. It is the regular window with the screws inside.
I want to replace it with plywood so i can fit a bigger window ac unit. The fitting plywood part is what i need help with, not removing the window. Thank you!
Use the outside frame as a template for laying out the plywood then use the inside frame along with wood screws to hold the plywood tight to the outside wall. I would paint the plywood first and use butyl tape to seal it to the rv outside wall.
 
Use the outside frame as a template for laying out the plywood then use the inside frame along with wood screws to hold the plywood tight to the outside wall. I would paint the plywood first and use butyl tape to seal it to the rv outside wall.
Would the plywood sit inside the hole? Or the outside wall
 
Against the outside wall. Once you scribe the template to the plywood, I would cut it 1” bigger than the frame all around. I would also ease the edge of the plywood with a router to help prevent a shelf for water to collect especially at the top edge.

Note: just a tip. Before you start the removal of the window, scribe a line all round the OD about 1 1/4” beyond the window frame with a pencil so it will be easy to center the plywood.
 
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Would the plywood sit inside the hole? Or the outside wall
As Rene says you can overlap it and screw it to the outside wall. The big key is to make sure the plywood is well sealed against the outside wall including any screws you use to fasten it.

This may not look awesome. One thing I would consider is whether I could remove the glass from the window frame after I removed it and then fit a piece of board within the window frame. This would be a lot more fiddly and probably require a pretty thin ply (maybe not) but would look a lot better IMO.

Even if the frame were thicker with the plywood, you could make it flush on the outside and then fill the inside gap with some sort of spacing strips.
 
Against the outside wall. Once you scribe the template to the plywood, I would cut it 1” bigger than the frame all around. I would also ease the edge of the plywood with a router to help prevent a shelf for water to collect especially at the top edge.

Note: just a tip. Before you start the removal of the window, scribe a line all round the OD about 1 1/4” with a pencil so it will be easy to center the plywood.
As Rene says you can overlap it and screw it to the outside wall. The big key is to make sure the plywood is well sealed against the outside wall including any screws you use to fasten it.

This may not look awesome. One thing I would consider is whether I could remove the glass from the window frame after I removed it and then fit a piece of board within the window frame. This would be a lot more fiddly and probably require a pretty thin ply (maybe not) but would look a lot better IMO.

Even if the frame were thicker with the plywood, you could make it flush on the outside and then fill the inside gap with some sort of spacing strips.
Im not going to make holes on the outside wall, so this wont work. This is my whole thing. How to fasten the wood without screwing from the outside. If that was the solution I wouldnt need to ask for advice 😅
 
Im not going to make holes on the outside wall, so this wont work. This is my whole thing. How to fasten the wood without screwing from the outside. If that was the solution I wouldnt need to ask for advice 😅
My post doesn’t require holes in the outside wall. Maybe I confused you
 
My post doesn’t require holes in the outside wall. Maybe I confused you
You confused me for sure.

I read your description as the plywood having overlap. I am unclear how you fasten the plywood.

Im not going to make holes on the outside wall, so this wont work. This is my whole thing. How to fasten the wood without screwing from the outside. If that was the solution I wouldnt need to ask for advice 😅

In my example it is one way to reuse the outer frame and have the plywood flush. You are replacing the glass with plywood - if possible. Not knowing exactly what your frame looks like, we are basically guessing on this side.
 
My post doesn’t require holes in the outside wall. Maybe I confused you
Youre saying “screw it to the wall outside.” Sorry if im misunderstanding this…. But seems like you are advising to screw to the outside wall. 😅
Can you send some photos?
 
From the original post:

Then cover the window with plywood & secure in place using slightly over-size interior wood frame that would be through-bolted to the exterior plywood. In essence "clamping" the exterior ply to the side of the RV. I would cut the proper size opening for whatever AC unit I bought.

This sounds like it would work. Cut two pieces of plywood (one inside, one outside) a few inches larger than the opening and bolt them together with the bolts just inside the opening which would sandwich the RV wall between them and would not require drilling any holes in the RV wall itself. You would, of course, want butyl tape or other sealant between the outside plywood and RV wall.
 
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