Need HELP with choosing an inverter

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zqueenz

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Jun 14, 2015
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Hello everyone!!  I'm in need of some advice as to what kind of inverter I need to purchase and install into my Mobile Suite.
What happened was my Dometic fridge took a crap on me (not surprising) and I had a domestic Samsung (FULL SIZE) fridge installed (LOVE IT)!!!! Now I need to purchase a inverter and install it. There are so many inverters on the market and I'm not sure which one I need to purchase and install. Any advice would be GREATLY Appreciated!!

Thank you all in advance!!


2009 DRV Mobile Suite TKSB3
 
What is the peak amp draw for the Samsung? There is probably a sticker inside that gives either max watts or max amps - that's what determines the inverter size. I would guess that somewhere around 600 watts would do, but you can get 1000W for around the same price and not have to worry. I would also suggest a pure sine inverter, even though Samsung has said that modified sine is ok for their fridges. 

The more difficult question is the size of the battery bank needed to power the fridge when you are off-grid. If it's just while driving, your present battery(s) may well be sufficient, but if you ever need to camp without shore power, then the battery amp-hours become critical. Modern residential fridges are very efficient, but they still need some power.
 
We have had several different brands of Inverters in various RV's, but the one that has impressed me the most is my current Inverter from Magnum Energy.  Quality parts, good manufacturer support, and very good reviews from other owners.  I am currently running a Magnum model# 2012, which is a 2000 watt Inverter/charger. It powers my entire rig with a residential refer, satellite TV, and all the lights and computers without a hickup.  It also keeps my bank of 6- 6 volt house batteries in tip top condition without fear of boiling them.  Highly recommended.
 
I have a Samsung residential refrigerator in my FW, with a 1,000 watt pure sine inverter and works perfect.
 
I installed a 10 CF Whirlpool Refrigerator in my MH. I mounted the inverter under the bed and ran #1 cables to the batteries, I have 2 golf cart units in series. I found that the cables were too small and had to change them to 4/0. I added monitoring meters to see what the system was doing. When the refrigerator starts, the 100A Amp meter is pegged and when it is stable it reads 10 Amps. If the refrigerator ran continuously the batteries would probably last about 10 hours. The batteries should last about 1 day with normal usage. If I were doing it again I would install a 2kW inverter instead of the 1kW unit. The freezer now stays at 0 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees and the refrigerator stays at 40 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees.

Next is an approximate cost of a new installation:
Xantrex Prowatt 806-1220 Sw2000 2000W True Sinewave Inverter $350
A 1 kW unit will cost about $250
Xantrex - Prowatt SW Remote Switch Panel $25
Xantrex Inline Transfer Relay for Prowatt SW $55
4/0 Battery cable 2 pieces about 10? long with terminals $110
Panel 120 VAC Voltmeter and 200 Amp DC Ammeter $30
All of my stuff was purchased on eBay.
Lots of work
 
Wayne, are those DC amps or AC amps? A 10A DC draw by the inverter is about as good as it gets.

The small (10 cu ft) Whirlpool is probably not one of the new energy efficient models - the fridge makers don't seem to be upgrading those models to the latest tech yet. I suspect a new Samsung may use the same or  less power, even though it is near 2x the size.
 
The 10 Amps is DC or about 120 Watts. I suspect the compressor is about the same for most smaller refrigerators and will draw about the same current.

The starting current is what causes the problem. My starting Volt Amps are greater than 1200 VA and would be close to the max for a 600W inverter and no problem with a 1kW inverter. I would like a 2kW unit to run some other stuff from. I do not have an inverter to run the whole MH. I do have a 400W inverter to run all of the non refrigerator electronic power.
 
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