We survived our first trip! but we have questions.

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vinceherman

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Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Posts
224
Location
Ohio
TLDR*?  I have three questions at the end.  Please go look.

We survived our first trip!

Our new Coachmen Chaparral rolled nicely behind our F350 on the way to our first exploratory weekend trip.  We need to start learning how to use all this equipment and confirming that it all works out in the real world.  We chose a local campground, loaded up and rolled out.  Me and my girl Marion up front while mom-in-law Rachel and our pup Dublin had plenty of room in the back seat of the truck.

Towing was a non-event.

Backing in to the spot at the campground went well.  Only 3 attempts were necessary and Marion on the other end of the walkie-talkie did not disown me.  I was SO glad that you all recommended practicing in a large parking lot!

Setting up showed the first of a few snags.  The rear stabilizers would not deploy.  Hitting the Extend side of the rocker switch did nothing.  No clicks.  No electric motor noise.  I held the switch and banged on the motor with my fist.  The motor started to turn, but very slowly and with varying speed that left me with no confidence that it was running right.  I hit Retract.  Nothing.  Banged on the motor again, and again the motor turned, very slowly, very fitfully.  It stopped before it fully retracted the one inch that I had extended.  I banged some more and it retracted further.  I gave up and put an item on the dealer list.

Next fun item.  Before I hooked up to city water, I wanted to try the water pump.  The fresh tank was full.  The valves were set for pump operation.  I turned on the water pump and YAY, water ran from faucets.  Boo, water also ran out the bottom of the trailer.  Only when the pump runs.  Once it pressurizes the system and shuts off, the leak stops.  I shut off the pump, changed the valves to city water operation and connected the hose.  No leaks.  Faucets work.  Another item on the list for our dealer.

There are a few minor items ? trim came loose ? second bedroom door won't latch ? master bedroom door has broken retainer.
All in all, the weekend was a success.  We learned a lot about the trailer.  We learned that more care needs to be taken levelling.  We gained confidence in our understanding of the procedures needed to make and break camp.  We found some things for the dealer to address (wish they could get us in before 4 weeks from now but this is the busy season).

So, questions.

Q1. How do I know how far the front landing legs can deploy? With the camper still on the truck, we pull the pins for the landing legs to let each foot drop.  Pull the foot up a bit to get the pin to engage the nearest hole, confirm that the pin is all the way through and then start extending until there is a bit of a gap with the plate.  Trailer wheels chocked and pull out the truck.  Then extend until the trailer is level.  But how far can I go?  I understand that if I go too far up or down that it can sheer a pin internally.  I am hoping to avoid that.  Retracting, I can see the limit of the travel, but I do not know how far it can extend.

Q2. How do I level side to side?  The front landing gear go up and down together.  The rear stabilizers are not intended to lift the trailer.  I see that the landing gear will raise or lower the nose until I am level front to back.  But side to side ? Do I need to use blocks under the wheels?  As in:
a. put the trailer where I want it
b. measure level
c. calculate how much I want to raise the low side
d. move the trailer
e. place blocks for the desired rise
f. move the trailer back in to position, now ON the blocks
I did buy a 10 pack set of leveling blocks but did not think to use them.

Q3. Stabilizing.  Yes, the real stabilizer motor failed so I could not deploy.  I am sure that made the largest contribution to the wiggles.  I do have x-chocks for the wheels.  I expect that when the dealer fixes the rear stabilizer, things will improve.  But Marion and Rachel both said I should buy the landing leg cross braces I was considering.  Any experience with this product from Winfield?

* TLDR Too Long, Didn't Read
 
On the first question, while it's still hooked up to the truck, do not pull the pin, extend the legs until they stop. Then retract them about 1/2" then scribe a line on the leg with a black magic marker.  I did the same thing in the raised position so I know when to stop when retracting.

I have a have a small bubble level mounted to the back of the trailer. My wife monitors that. Once I'm in position, she knows how much and which side needs to be raised. She takes out the necessary boards and places them next to the wheel. I pull forward, she slides them behind the wheel or wheels and then directs me to back up on them then checks the level one more time. Once in a while we have to make a small adjustment.  My boards are 2" X  8" X 12'" long. I have 6 of them. The leading edge is cut on a 45 degree angle.

As far as front stabilizer, I did a lot of research on the Steady Fast System and the JT Strong Arm System. After talking to actual owners and seeing them personally, I chose the Steady Fast System. A couple of the main reasons are the Steady Fast System has less joints and the ease of having access to the locking handle. Also the location where the JT Strong Arm have to be mounted, in my case. the front would have been mounted to sheet metal which would allow flexing and movement. As far as the rear, I would have had to add a fairly large piece a channel iron to mount them to.
 
When I pull into a spot I check my left to right first thing even before the front to rear. If the spot is not level left to right then add boards or plastic blocks to the low side. Once level left to right you can chock your axles. Now unhitch your trailer. Now once unhitched you can use the landing gear to level front to rear. You should be level and set.
 
Your symptom of stabilizers not deploying could be the sign of a dead battery. Just because the coach is new does not mean that the battery was not abused. Make sure your coat battery has a full charge when trying to deploy your stabilizing legs.
 
SargeW said:
Your symptom of stabilizers not deploying could be the sign of a dead battery. Just because the coach is new does not mean that the battery was not abused. Make sure your coat battery has a full charge when trying to deploy your stabilizing legs.

Marty, the op said it was only the back stabilizers. It sounded like the front legs worked OK so I think that could possibly rule out the battery.
 
Good point Rene. What about the wiring running to the rear stabilizers, wire heavy enough? Connections checked? Since they each have their own motor, it would seem odd that neither one would work.  Still sounds like a wiring or connection issue.
 
Sounds more like the Brushes in the motor are hanging up or the brush springs are rusted and broken/lost tension (very common problem).  Repair the motor or have it repaired then  rebuild yourself a cover for the motor to protect it from the elements.
 
I know this is not a solution but sense the problem is here you might want to look at if there is a mechanical hand crank option for raising or lower the stabilizers. If the problem should occur again after warranty service at least you'll be able to deal with the RV on your own instead of being trapped with the legs down.
 
I took a sharpie marker and marked the post about 3/4" before the end of the run both on the extension and retracted positions on the jack.
 
SargeW said:
Good point Rene. What about the wiring running to the rear stabilizers, wire heavy enough? Connections checked? Since they each have their own motor, it would seem odd that neither one would work.  Still sounds like a wiring or connection issue.

On my rear stabilizers there is only one motor. I had and issue last year where mine didn't work. I did a lot of research online and found out who the manufacturer of the motor was and purchased a new one  at a huge discount as compared to buying it from a dealer. After receiving it and installing, I decided to take the old one apart. What I found was that one of the springs for one of the brushes was gone. It had rusted away. I tried a spring from a ball point pen and it worked. I put it all back together and sealed the motor housing real good. I now have a spare motor.
 
All good info.  Thanks!
I have a fat sharpie ready to go for marking the front landing leg travel limits.
In my mind, a failed brush spring is the most likely cause of the problem with the rear stabilizer.  But connection or wire issues could also contribute.  I?ll make sure and ask the dealer what they find and try to get it posted back here.  I will read through the owners manual to see what the hand crank option is.  I know there are some hand cranks in the basement.  I should probably try them out so that I know which goes where.
The advice on leveling is much appreciated.  This first trip was done with no side to side leveling, and the next trip will be better for that advice.
I think I am going to order the front cross braces to get that project rolling.
July 14 is my appointment at the dealer.  Other than delays in call backs due to being in the middle of their busy season, they have treated us fairly well.  The initial walk-through revealed a few issues which they addressed.  This first camping trip revealed a few more issues.  I expect they will also be addressed by the dealer.
I want to get in a few more small trips before my bigger trips in the fall.
 
I suspect that the 2 handles you have found are for slides and landing gear. At least that is what mine came with....
 
If the dealer has to replace the motor, see if you can get the old one. Then take it apart and see if you can fix it and keep it as a spare. 

If your stabilizer is like mine and you only have one motor, look at the other end of the mechanism, There's probable a 1/2" shaft with a pin through the side of it. You should have a wrench and the end will have a 1/2" hole and the very end will have a slot cut in it for the pin. You can still use the jacks but you'll have to operate them manually.
 
vinceherman said:
This first trip was done with no side to side leveling, and the next trip will be better for that advice.
One point about side leveling: once you raise one side of the trailer the front jacks will now not hit the ground at the same time. I use a different pin and or block under the short jack so they both make contact at the same time--or as close as possible. Sometimes the next pin up is not enough but two pins up is too much--but a leveling block or 2x8 is just right. I was told years ago by a dealer to keep the two front jacks within an inch of each other. Perhaps that is no longer true.

Sometimes I have to do this when my 5th wheel is otherwise level (i.e., no side to side leveling was needed).



Michael
 
Sounds like a fun first trip. Word to the wise, my wife is vertically challenged. Take care when leveling to making sure the step side of the camper isn't needed to be raised too much.

First 2 times we camped this happened, wife was not pleased with that huge step at the end...
 
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