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edjunior

edjunior

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
2,884
Location
Roman Forest, TX.
Well, I originally posted this in the travel trailer section, but got no response.  So I'll try it here, in the towing section.

Okay, I have a question.  I had a Montero Sport that required the equalizer bars to pull my 26' Ultra-Lite trailer.  After one pull, I went out and got and F-250 Super Duty.  I have used the equalizer bars with the new truck, and all seems to be well, but I'm wondering if there are any long-term effects since this is a much heavier duty towing vehicle.  The added benefit of sway control is the bonus for using them.

Thanks.
 
I have used the equalizer bars with the new truck, and all seems to be well, but I'm wondering if there are any long-term effects since this is a much heavier duty towing vehicle.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "long term effects" of using the F250.  Could you explain your concerns further?

An F250 diesel is an outstanding tow vehicle - I pulled an 11,000 lb 5W all over the USA when we had one.
 
You made a good choice on your recent purchase of a F250 super duty. That truck should pull what you have with no problems. I love mine!
 
I have used the equalizer bars with the new truck, and all seems to be well, but I'm wondering if there are any long-term effects since this is a much heavier duty towing vehicle.  The added benefit of sway control is the bonus for using them.
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It is a bit hard to figure out what the question is, but I will guess that you want to know if you should continue to use the weight equalization hardware on your new truck.  The answer is yes.  The positives of leveling trailer and tow vehicle and the transfer of weight to the front wheels to avoid an oversteer condition far outweigh the only negative, the bother of hitching them up.
 
Thanks for the responses.  I guess I could be a little clearer on my question.  The concern is, the trailer is one of the "Ultra-Lites", though at 4300 pounds or so dry, I'm not sure how true that is!  Anyway, since the frame of the trailer is lighter, I was a little concerned that using the equalizing bars with the added "stability" of the F-250, I might put too much strain on the frame of the trailer.  You know, no give at all between the truck and the trailer.  I hope this is a little clearer.

Also, this truck has the 5.4L V-8, which is great for this trailer because it's so light, but even at that, it still struggles a bit on hills.  I was wondering if I could benefit with the "Super Chips" I read about here and elsewhere.  I would like to get a little more power out of it (it is rated at 260HP and 250 FT/LB torque.  The chip boasts a 20HP and 28FT./LB. torque increase.  At the very least, it looks like the chip would help me some on gas mileage as well, as that really sucks (literally) on this truck.  I realize I probably won't gain that much, but as I get to towing longer distances, every little bit would surely add up.

Thanks again, and looking forward to more good reading.
 
Thanks for the responses.  I guess I could be a little clearer on my question.  The concern is, the trailer is one of the "Ultra-Lites", though at 4300 pounds or so dry, I'm not sure how true that is!  Anyway, since the frame of the trailer is lighter, I was a little concerned that using the equalizing bars with the added "stability" of the F-250, I might put too much strain on the frame of the trailer.  You know, no give at all between the truck and the trailer.  I hope this is a little clearer.
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For what it is worth, for some ten years,  I have been pulling a Prowler 23LV which has an unladen weight of 3600 lbs and a GVWR of 5400 lbs.  For the entirety of that period I have used a Reese Dual Cam system with 1000 lb rated spring bars (the tongue weight of the trailer is 750 lbs).    The tow vehicle is a Ford Bronco with its offroad suspension.

They work just fine and the trailer is in good shape.  I would not worry in your case, unless the trailer has some strange construction features.

Also, this truck has the 5.4L V-8, which is great for this trailer because it's so light, but even at that, it still struggles a bit on hills.
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With a 5.4l you will stuggle a bit on hills.  For this purpose there are those lower gears on your tranny -- use 'em.  I have pulled many a pass out here in the west in 1st cog.  Just settle down in the far right lane and grind up the grade.  While you do, you may notice all sort of fancy Class A motorhome with monster desiel pushers grinding along right next to you.  You may even pass some.  ;D
 
Thanks Carl, I'm really starting to feel much more comfortable with this whole setup.  Much more comfortable anyway than with the Montero Sport!  Anyway, your response kinda brings up another question concerning the F-250.  When it downshifts on its own, the RPM's sometimes go up over 4000.  Is this normal.  There is no "redline" on this tachometer, so I have no way of judging whether I'm getting close to it or not.  And me not being one to assume, I'd hate to assume that since there is no redline on the tachometer, that means that everything showing is fair game...only when you exceed what shows on the tachometer would you redline.  I've searched the web and the Ford website, and read the owners manual, but to no avail.  I've never seen a setup like this (every tachometer I've ever seen prior to this has had a redline), so if anyone has any info on this, I'd sure appreciate it.
 
Hello again,

In response to the high revs of the engine ,I have a question, you have not mentioned anything but are you familar with the tow/haul mode of the auto trans, if it is an automatic. Also , heat is one of the biggest robbers of power, try adding a cold air induction, and if you want more a larger exhaust pipe. As for the chip I believe it will more than pay for itself if you plan to do a lot of driving. There has alwayas been a big " space" between first and second gears with ford trannys but it is normal. The transmission is one of the weak links of the drive train, and considering what you want to do a heavier torque converter might also be in order.

Hope this helps

Earl
 
When it downshifts on its own, the RPM's sometimes go up over 4000.  Is this normal.  There is no "redline" on this tachometer, so I have no way of judging whether I'm getting close to it or not. 
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Hey you aren't driving a V-12 Ferrari here.    This is a Ford 5.4 V8, right?  If your auto transmission lets you go there, and it is not malfunctioning, it will get you back.  Nowadays, the computers on those things are smarter than we are.  Or at least me. 

What I use the tach for is keeping the rpms between 2000 and 3500 rpm so that I do not start lugging a hill or contributing excessively to Shell Oil Co. returns on investment.  This only when I have gone to 2nd or 1st to avoid the tranny surging up and down and overheating.
 
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