I have a 1980 overland 28' I decided to remodel it :-[ absolutely no experience. anyway here's my problem I moved the shower from the rear of the rv to the front side of the rv on the opposite side I tidied into the original drain and ran it around to the shower but know it won't drain can anyone help me with this problem
shower drain
- Thread starter rebel1155
- Start date
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Rene T
Site Team
What you'll need is a vent. The vent allows air to get into the pipe allowing the water to flow. I'll locate one and I'll post it here. This is what you'll need:
http://hardwareonlinestore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=30106&virtuemart_category_id=47704&gclid=CITR79aJr8cCFdUTHwod0vcMsg
On the bottom of the shower you'll need to cut into the drain piping and put in a tee. From the tee, run a piece of pipe to someplace where it will be concealed. Then install a 90 degree elbow on the end of the pipe. Then from that elbow run a piece of pipe up about 2 to 3 feet. Mount the air admittance/vent valve on the end of that pipe. That should work.
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Also, did you pitch the pipe a little so it will fully drain and did you install a trap under the shower? One of these will work real good if you don't have room for a "P" Trap. http://www.hepvo.com/
http://hardwareonlinestore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=30106&virtuemart_category_id=47704&gclid=CITR79aJr8cCFdUTHwod0vcMsg
On the bottom of the shower you'll need to cut into the drain piping and put in a tee. From the tee, run a piece of pipe to someplace where it will be concealed. Then install a 90 degree elbow on the end of the pipe. Then from that elbow run a piece of pipe up about 2 to 3 feet. Mount the air admittance/vent valve on the end of that pipe. That should work.
:Also, did you pitch the pipe a little so it will fully drain and did you install a trap under the shower? One of these will work real good if you don't have room for a "P" Trap. http://www.hepvo.com/
legrandnormand
Well-known member
That's quite a move ! BTW, did you move the kitchen to the back ? ;D
thanks rene t I'll add the vent to the drain. but I have another question I left the kitchen in the same place and there is a vent at the back of the rv going out of the roof in that same line and the kitchen drains fine but in answer to your question I do have a p trap under the shower but I don't know what you mean by pitch the line also the toilet is right next to the shower can I t into that vent and if I do will t into the toilet vent will the shower drain into that tank
Rene T
Site Team
rebel1155 said:
When I say pitch the line, I mean to make sure that the pipe goes downhill from your shower drain and that there are no low spots where water can collect. You can tie into the toilet vent pipe. Just make sure that you tie in at least a foot or so higher than the actual shower drain and that it is as close as it can be to the P Trap .
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I'm not convinced you have a venting problem, since there should still be a vent in that drain line you tied into.
Please describe "won't drain" in more detail. A venting problem typically ends up with the "glug-glug-glug" sound and maybe bubbles back up the shower drain. If the water simply sits there and doesn't drain out at all, it is more likely the lack of "pitch" (down angle) in the pipe. A long run of pipe with little or no downward pitch causes the pipe to fill with water and then it backs up. Usually it slowly drains if left alone with no additional water added.
You could tee a vent into the black vent, but it brings the risk that black odors or even water could conceivable work backwards to the gray waste system. Avoid if possible.
Please describe "won't drain" in more detail. A venting problem typically ends up with the "glug-glug-glug" sound and maybe bubbles back up the shower drain. If the water simply sits there and doesn't drain out at all, it is more likely the lack of "pitch" (down angle) in the pipe. A long run of pipe with little or no downward pitch causes the pipe to fill with water and then it backs up. Usually it slowly drains if left alone with no additional water added.
You could tee a vent into the black vent, but it brings the risk that black odors or even water could conceivable work backwards to the gray waste system. Avoid if possible.
thanks rene t you are a life saver I pitched the line and added a vent near the p trap and when I poured water in it drained so fast I thought I left the line disconnected at some point but I didn't and it's working perfectly thank you very much now I can save the rest of hair I didn't pull out of my head ;D ;D ;D. and also thank you gary rv roamer for your advice because those are problem I would not like to have anyway thanks alot to both of you
Happy Trails rebel1155
Happy Trails rebel1155
ok community I have another question. I'm going to install an inverter I know it need's to be as close to the batteries as possible ideally within 3' but for the appliance that I'm hooking to does it matter how long that line is. in fact i'm only going to hook one tv to I
Rene T
Site Team
rebel1155 said:
You are most welcome. We're glad we could help. Also thanks for getting back to us. Many times we never find out if the suggestions we give fixes the problem.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
There is no practical limit on the length of the power wire from the inverter to the appliance(s) in an RV. Use 14 gauge wire for up to about 12 amps (1400 watts) and 12 gauge if 13-20 amps (1400-2400 watts).
hello everyone it's me again. I've added an inverter and transfer switch and everything is working fine. as I stated before I have a 1980 overland 28' footer so there's not a whole lot of electrical draw and when I do use it all I would be using on the inverter is one tv and maybe a couple of lights at one time so I wired the inverter to run the whole house. by doing that I noticed that when I turn on the inverter it powers up the converter. right now I have the inverter connected to the chassis battery for testing purposes when I finish the remodel I plan on running two 6v golf cart batteries although at the moment I do have one 12v deep cycle battery installed now but it's no good and won't take a charge. when I turned on the inverter I checked the deep cycle battery which is hooked to the converter and it read 14v which indicated to me that the converter was attempting to charge the battery. so my question is with this configuration when I turn on my inverter wouldn't the converter keep the batteries charged extending the use of the inverter
Nice idea, but it's similar to "perpetual motion" and just as impossible. Your batteries will quickly discharge due to the losses in the inverter and converter as they try to charge themselves. You either need to rewire the converter so it's not on the inverter output, or shut it off when using the inverter.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
As Ned says, that is an exercise in futility. You lose 5-10% of battery power as the inverter produces 120v from 12v. Then you lose more as the converter converts it back. The longer you run that way, the quicker the batteries discharge because the converter draws more and more power to attempt to replace what has been lost, but instead it just makes the problem worse.
Visualize pumping water out of a tank with a badly leaking pipe and into another tank. Then use another pump, also with a leak, to pump the same water back in. The longer you run both pumps, the more water you lose. You can't gain anything - you can only lose more and more. Plus, you have to supply power to the pumps.
Visualize pumping water out of a tank with a badly leaking pipe and into another tank. Then use another pump, also with a leak, to pump the same water back in. The longer you run both pumps, the more water you lose. You can't gain anything - you can only lose more and more. Plus, you have to supply power to the pumps.
thanks gary and ned for your responses as usual your information is invaluable, but I have one more question since my only real concern is using the tv in the sleeping quarters if I run a power strip dedicated to the inverter without tying into my breaker box would I be able to eliminate the transfer switch
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Probably, but I'm not clear on the purpose of the transfer switch you installed. If you are now running the entire RV off the inverter (when not on shore power), what does the transfer switch do? Just a safety interlock to make sure its never online when shore power is live?
Since you seem to have limited goals for the inverter, I would think a dedicated outlet strip would be the simplest approach. If you want to avoid the inconvenience of changing the tv plug over to the dedicated strip when needed, just leave the tv on the inverter all the time. When on shore power, the converter keeps up with the battery power consumption for the inverter.
the transfer switch was to make sure I didn't forget and have both shore power and inverter clash with each other. so now i'll just plug tv in to power strip and I've been thinking about a residential fridg and plugging it into the power strip and that would be the only two things plugged into it. right now I have a dometic fridg that sprung a leak so I either find a cooling unit that I can afford or switch to a residential which i'm not crazy about but funds are limited
