12v Fridge fans sold on ebay

HI everyone and thanks for all past help!
I decided to pick up one of those 12v fans to make my refer cool better. My little D cell battery fan died and after seeing pics posted on here it seems many of you have those clip on to the fin 12v fans.  It came today.  Tried to install it. When attached to the end of the light bulb holder nearest the front of the refer it runs but cuts OFF when the door is shut. When the wire is attached to the other end of the light bulb holder it wont run AT ALL.
Does anyone know what I am doing wrong? Thanks in advance for any replies!
Dianne

Since the light goes off when you shut the door, clipping to either end of the light fixture cannot work. You need to clip to some point before the door switch that controls the light. That place will depend on the model of fridge.

A number of us have fed the fan power wire down the drain tube and picked up 12-volts at the fridge control board.

Thanks Gary and Dutch...

The fridge is a Norcold 1210IM.

I wouldnt mind attempting the drain tube thing..but..
1. I am afraid I would zap my control board. I know nothing about this stuff.
2. I have no clue how to go about connecting to the control board once I fish the wire down the drain tube.

dpickard said:

Thanks Gary and Dutch...

The fridge is a Norcold 1210IM.

I wouldnt mind attempting the drain tube thing..but..
1. I am afraid I would zap my control board. I know nothing about this stuff.
2. I have no clue how to go about connecting to the control board once I fish the wire down the drain tube.

Click to expand...

I used my multi-meter to identify a 12-volt wire that turned on and off with the fridge to splice into.

The 1210 must have 12v available inside the fridge, without going to extremes. There is a 12v heater in the door divider, and the switch that controls the interior light.  Somebody here with a 1210 ought to be able to figure it out and identify the spot.

I seem to recall that somebody posted about making a power connection inside the 4-door Norcolds. Any remember who?

I drilled a small hole in the back of the fridge and ran the wire through it. There's 12 volt power in the back of the fridge. I then rigged up a switch inside which would  turn the fan on when the door is shut and the switch stops the fan when the door is opened.

A couple possibilities:

1. On the left side door (hinge side) there are pins carrying 12v power to the heater in the "flapper". These are spring loaded pins in the door, with corresponding contacts on the door frame. Should be possible to drill a small hole there to connect to the full time 12v source.

2. There are door switches at the top of each door frame and these pop put. That is what switches the light on/off. so there ought to be constant 12v power there.

Thanks, I will try these possibilities.

Never could find a constant 12v inside the refer so I have decided to try running the wire thru the condensation drain tube. As my luck seems to go, this has presented more issues than I ever dreamed possible with such a simple project.

The guy I bought the fan from on ebay is going to mail me some 24ga. wire. None of the stores here sell it locally and I had a hard time finding the correct wire online.
He doesn't have the inline fuse holder, however, and this is where the problem comes in...

I can find plenty of inline fuse holders online but NONE of them have 24ga wiring. So, I am confused as to what to do.

1. Can I use a fuse holder with a different gauge wiring for this project? Will any of the "standard" fuse holders work? They all seem to specify what amp fuse they work with and this is what confuses me. None seem to be for a 1/2 (one half) amp fuse.

2. What do I use to make the connection stable besides twisting the ends of the wires together? Is black electrical tape ok or is some kind of connector such as a wire nut best?      24 ga. wire is awfully thin.

Those of you that have these fans in your coaches...what did you use?  Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Dianne

Go with a 18 gage wire and you'll be fine. Twist the end of the 24 gage wire around the stripped end of the 18 gage wire and then use a wire nut. You can even tape the wire nut after with electrical tape so it doesn't unscrew. 

The fuse holder can be larger than 24 ga. Any size at all, as long as the 24 ga can be clamped in tightly. Probably best to stick with a fuse holder designed for smaller wires, 18 ga tops (smaller numbers are bigger wires). Just make sure the fuse itself is a small enough amp rating for 24 ga wire (I suggest 1 amp).

But there is no need to use such tiny wire - 22, 20 or even 18 ga would be fine. The fan doesn't care as long as it is big enough. Bigger wire is easier to work with too.

Wire nuts come is various sizes for different wires, but local hardware stores probably don't have anything sized really small. You might need an electronics store to get them for that small a wire size. They can also be ordered from places like Digikey.com.

Would this work with a 1 amp fuse?

http://www.finditparts.com/products/356248/grote-82-2160?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K356248&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsIWvBRCnzevvor2g4L8BEiQAAN234RbCm6owy30nf5dHeDtUutsrf2u0FZ7RatfQpaa8B9caAt-58P8HAQ

I found this fuse but these things are confusing. They talk about "styles" such as AGC, etc. ...all Greek to me.

http://www.finditparts.com/products/1787935/velvac-091131-5

Best way to wire 12 V fan in a Norcold 1210 or 1200 refer

Here is the best way to power a refrigerator fan in a Norcold 1210 refer or a Model 1200.  It's really nice because the fan will run when the doors are closed but will automatically stop running when you open either door.  There is no drilling.  The power is already inside the refrigerators.

The ground wire is clipped onto a FIN so it's easy.

For a Norcold Model 1210, the positive wire goes down into the defrost tray, so it does not show, and over to the left side wall of the refer.  From there it goes out toward the left door jam in a channel that is on the left side of the refer wall.  I used this channel so it does not show.  It looks better this way.

From there, using white colored tape for looks, the wire goes across to the door jam and across the BOTTOM circular contact that is in the door jam wall.  When you look at the left door itself you will see 3 pins that push in when the door is closed and 3 circular contacts to which these 3 pins connect when the door is closed. 

Now strip an inch of insulation off so you can place the bare wire across the bottom-most circular contact.  Twist the wire and squeeze it so it is a little flat.  Finally, tape both sides of the wire, that is going across the bottom -most contact, so the bare wire will stay in place on top of that contact.  In this case you tape one side that still has insulation on it the other side is the bare wire that goes beyond the circular contact.  Do NOT cover the contact/wire with tape. You now have the +12V bare wire going across the bottom-most contact.

This really works well with our Norcold 1210...close door fan runs open door fan stops.  It's like magic!

JerryF

PS, you can also wire a refer fan in the Norcold model 1200 refrigerator by connecting the + lead directly to one of the overhead interior light leads.  Just check to see which one.  Of course the negative lead is clamped to one of the fins.  Esta Facil!

I found this fuse but these things are confusing. They talk about "styles" such as AGC, etc. ...all Greek to me.

Click to expand...

You don't need to be concerned about the fuse type or shape, just that the fuse type physically matches the fuse holder you use. For your purposes, one shape of fuse is as good as another, as long as the amp rating it ok for the wire used.

That AGC glass tube fuse will work fine with an inline AGC fuse holder. Something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/in-line-agc-fuse-holder--070-609
http://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE

Thanks Jerry and Gary!

My 24 ga. wire is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I cant wait to try your method, Jerry!

In case that fails, I will buy the products Gary found and try to go through the condensation tube.

You guys are awesome!

Thanks so much!

Dianne

Seems like a lot of work for something of limited value. It won't make the inside any colder.  It will, however, even out the temperature distribution in the interior somewhat, as long as the food isn't packed in too densely.

Well folks, I can testify to the fact that Jerry's method works like a CHARM!

Thanks so much, Jerry!

I felt having this would be more reliable than having to depend on batteries which always seem to die when you don't have replacements handy; not to mention the cost savings on batteries over time.

I truly appreciate all the input received. Forum members ROCK!!!

Thanks again

I am happy to report that with this 12v fan I was able to cut the temp back to level 6 from level 9 which was staying in the neighborhood of 38 degrees with two of the little blue battery operated fans running.

At level 6 the inside temp is 32-34 degrees. I may try to cut it back even further because I am seeing some ice on the fins.

These 12v fans have made me a BELIEVER!