We are in South Texas now and it has been horribly hot and our 1 ac unit isn't cutting it. However, in the next 2 months we will be headed up north around Colorado, possible Montana or Pennsylvania. Therefore, I am thinking about getting a window unit that is an air conditioner and heater in one. I realize we will have to brace it etc, but has anyone ever done anything like this before or have any experience with one of these units?
Dual ac/heater window unit in a travel trailor
- Thread starter Tbaxley
- Start date
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Gary RV_Wizard
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Do you have adequate power for another a/c, window or otherwise?
I've seen RVs with window a/c's before, though usually they are parked more or less permanently.
I've seen RVs with window a/c's before, though usually they are parked more or less permanently.
Our camper is 30 amp and the window unit would probably require 50 amp....we figured to just run a seperate cord to plug into the 50 amp just for the unit. Is that crazy? I just don't know if it will heat well in the winter and I can't run a bunch if ceremic heaters indoors or else it will eat up the 39 amps we have.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Two options for a window unit in a 30 amp RV (Been there and done that by the way)
Option 1: install an outlet that is capable of sustained 10+ amps (Most RV outlets are very marginal at that level) and feed it off the 30 amp.. ti will take about half (you may be able to run the water heater POSSIBLY the Fridge but if you want to microwave turn off water heater)
Option2 (Which I recommend) Run the cord outside and plug it in (Using a 12ga extension cord) to park's 20 amp outlet. This way it does not affect RV electrical much at all..
Danger of doing this is low voltage can damage the window A/C but considering the devices to prevent that cost nearly as much as the Window A/C unit... I'd not worry much about it .
Option 1: install an outlet that is capable of sustained 10+ amps (Most RV outlets are very marginal at that level) and feed it off the 30 amp.. ti will take about half (you may be able to run the water heater POSSIBLY the Fridge but if you want to microwave turn off water heater)
Option2 (Which I recommend) Run the cord outside and plug it in (Using a 12ga extension cord) to park's 20 amp outlet. This way it does not affect RV electrical much at all..
Danger of doing this is low voltage can damage the window A/C but considering the devices to prevent that cost nearly as much as the Window A/C unit... I'd not worry much about it .
T
Trailer traveler
Guest
To add cooling and heating capability and also provide power from my stand alone inverter for the TV when boondocking, I added a 20 Amp inlet and installed a 20 Amp outlet near the entertainment center. I can connect both the regular 30 Amp RV service and the new 20 Amp service to a park's 50 Amp receptacle using an adapter. This setup allows full use of both services from a 50 Amp pedistal outlet and reduces problems that might occur by using both the 30 anp and 15/20 amp outlets if they are not wired separately.
It would be a lot better to use propane heat and that would open up your AC ideas. Depending on the size of your RV you can keep your amp draw under 10 amps. An energy star 5000 btu AC I've seen as low as 4.9 amps or roughly 540 watts when the compressor kicks in. A bigger unit which you shouldn't need more than 8000 btu can draw as low as 6 amps with an energy star. Both 110 volt. You need the correct size unit to remove the humidity the best. Bigger is not better when it comes to AC units. A bigger mismatched unit doesn't run long enough to remove the humidity properly.
I've seen some RV manufacturers starting to install window units in smaller RVs. They convert them to wall units and build a box inside so it's only sticking out an inch or two on the outside. They make the box waterproof and include a drain hose for the condensation. A 5000 btu unit is only 12-13" deep so the box only protrudes 9-10" inside.
I met a man last year that had a 5000 btu window unit, a 150 watt solar panel/controller/charger and a golf cart battery on his 5th wheel. It powered his AC during the day, tv and lights. Then if needed you could have a charger on your battery when hooked to electric at a campground. You could bypass the solar idea and just use an inverter, charger and battery bank if you frequent hookups.
With the right unit you can use the circuit for the old AC unit because it won't be needed. Just don't use a bigger amp draw. Just a thought.
I've seen some RV manufacturers starting to install window units in smaller RVs. They convert them to wall units and build a box inside so it's only sticking out an inch or two on the outside. They make the box waterproof and include a drain hose for the condensation. A 5000 btu unit is only 12-13" deep so the box only protrudes 9-10" inside.
I met a man last year that had a 5000 btu window unit, a 150 watt solar panel/controller/charger and a golf cart battery on his 5th wheel. It powered his AC during the day, tv and lights. Then if needed you could have a charger on your battery when hooked to electric at a campground. You could bypass the solar idea and just use an inverter, charger and battery bank if you frequent hookups.
With the right unit you can use the circuit for the old AC unit because it won't be needed. Just don't use a bigger amp draw. Just a thought.
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
A 150W solar panel will not power a 5, 000 btu air conditioner that requires at least four or five times that amount of power!
This is still the internet!
Ernie
This is still the internet!
Ernie
JiminDenver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2012
- Posts
- 506
I run a 5000 BTU air conditioner off of my solar/ battery system. It pulls 450w once the pressure has built up. We never ever need it at night.
When it is a dry heat it does ok with our 25 ft trailer as long as you get it going before the heat loads builds up. In humid weather it takes longer but eventually does do the job. I would go something a bit larger were I to do it again.
When it is a dry heat it does ok with our 25 ft trailer as long as you get it going before the heat loads builds up. In humid weather it takes longer but eventually does do the job. I would go something a bit larger were I to do it again.
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
With one battery? 450W equals about 35A.
Ernie
Ernie
JiminDenver
Well-known member
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- Posts
- 506
We have three Lifeline 8-D's for a 675 Ah bank. They can run the A/C for quite a while but we generally don't need it when it isn't sunny.
When it's sunny the A/C runs off of the solar mid day while the bank sits in float. We have 750w of solar capable of 50 amp output. The A/C averages 35a so the batteries are still getting something.
What I was saying above is 5000 BTU is pretty marginal for a 25 ft trailer. On a day in the mid 90s the A/C could only keep the temperature down to 80 inside. Not very good unless you consider it would have been 120 inside with the trailer in the sun all day.
When it's sunny the A/C runs off of the solar mid day while the bank sits in float. We have 750w of solar capable of 50 amp output. The A/C averages 35a so the batteries are still getting something.
What I was saying above is 5000 BTU is pretty marginal for a 25 ft trailer. On a day in the mid 90s the A/C could only keep the temperature down to 80 inside. Not very good unless you consider it would have been 120 inside with the trailer in the sun all day.
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