Misc. buying used RV questions....

Hello-

I'm in the exploratory phase of buying a used RV (A or C, 30 feet-ish long, 2011-2014).  This will also be my first RV. As I'm searching along here, I have a few questions....

1) Many of the RVs I'm looking at have the Ford V10 Triton powertrain.  What's your opinion of this powertrain?  What kind of routine maintenance do they need compared to a regular gas powered car?  I assume oil and filter changes but anything of note beyond that?  How long does this powertrain go between tune ups/spark plug changes for example?  Similar to a SUV?

2) I'm looking at RVs that are 1-5 years old, and very often I'm seeing that they have "new tires" as a selling point in the ad.  Many of these RVs, though, have less than 30K miles.  I thought it was unusual to see tire replacements with such few miles on the rigs.  How long do these "little" RV tires last?  Do they have similar life spans as car tires, or do they simply not last as long?

3) Brakes/rotors on these Triton V10 powertrains.....assuming one isn't towing anything or coursing through mountain highways, how long do brakes tend to last for?  I realize that brakes could last 10K miles or 60K miles depending upon a multitude of factors, but I'm looking at some rigs that have around 30K to 40K and was wondering if I should be expecting a brake/rotor change around that mileage?  How much does a brake and rotor change cost on these Triton V10 powertrains?  Comparable to a SUV?

4)  As I look at these A and C class RVs with the Triton powertrain, the engine is pretty much buried in the body of the rigs.  I usually like to do routine maintenance myself like oil and fluid changes, filters, etc, but it would seem like there is barely any way to access the engine.  Is everything you need under/behind these little hoods or behind the fiberglass doors on the front of the rig, or is engine compartment access as big a PITA as it looks like it will be? 

Sorry, lots of questions.  Thanks.

It's not an SUV, it's a ten ton truck. As such maintenance will cost more and be more difficult because everything is larger and heavier. That said,  the Ford V10 is a powerful and reliable engine.

As for maintenance intervals, tune ups are generally a 100, 000 mile interval, brakes may do as well with reasonable use (although a brake job is obviously more expensive), And I found regular service easier if only because you can more easily get under the MH. Tires generally age out at seven years and never wear out.

In summary, there are more important things to worry about than the power train; Floor Plan, Floor Plan, Floor Plan!

Ernie

Good questions!  Quick note, we have a pretty extensive "Buying a Used RV" checklist in the Library... clickable button above near the top of the page.  Lots and lots of articles in there for Newcomers.

(1) and (4)... The V-10 is a solid powertrain, same one used in a lot of trucks and SUV's... same maintenance schedule applies.  Many RV's are not driven that many miles (compared to your daily driver vehicle) so if you drive under 5k miles per year you often will only need to change the oil one time annually.  Class A motorhomes (which most of us will highly recommend for the more open interior space and increased underbody storage) are pretty easy to work on in my experience.  The underside is set up higher than any regular vehicle, and I was always able to easily scoot under my motorhome for oil changes or whatever without jacking it up and without a dolly.  You have front access for anything stored in there, and top engine access inside the motorhome by lifting off the "doghouse cover" as its called.  That's the big hump between the two front seats... it unlatches and can be removed, like a lightweight hood.  There you can reach spark plugs, throttle body, ignition components, intake, and more.

(2) Tires are a big expense, and I can almost guarantee that any rig 1-5 years old still has the original set.  When an ad says "new" they probably mean "looks new".  On RV's the outer appearance of tires is almost worthless.  They are at full capacity almost all the time and do not roll as often to circulate chemicals in the rubber (unlike your car's tires).  Dry rot starts internally, and RV tires should be replaced after ~7 years no matter how they look.  You are at much higher risk of a high speed highway blowout (NOT fun!) after that.  The DOT code on the sidewall of the tire can be decoded to indicate the week/month/year of manufacture.  That's the only sure way to know how old they are.

(3) Brakes are a rare replacement item on motorhomes.  They are big and heavy-duty for one.  Most rigs travel mostly highway miles, ideally you are moving slower with more visibility of upcoming stops, more space between you and other vehicles, and very few quick/panic braking events.  All of those items will keep your brakes in good shape for a LONG time, longer than almost any daily driver vehicle.

Hope all this helps!  I'm sure some more replies will be added, feel free to ask any more questions that you think of. 

1. That V-10 is great. Maintenance is similar to that on a Ford pickup, in fact I have a Triton V-8 in my F-150.

2. Tires on RVs rarely wear out, rather they "age out," meaning that by the time they hit 7 years, or so, they've deteriorated enough that it's wise to replace them. By 9 or 10 years they're a "bomb" waiting to happen. There are many discussions on this site about tires, so you can get more thoughts with a search.

3. As you note, brake life is dependent on use and more, but 60K+ miles isn't unusual.

4. A lot of folks here do their own oil changes and such. On class A units, the "dog house" (engine cover in the cab) can be removed for access. Although it depends on the specific unit, the Bounder I had was high enough that I could get under it to drain oil, get at the filter, etc. and the oil filler was easy to find behind the small "hood" opening in front. On a class C it's about like a van.

If you know how to do the maintenance on a rear wheel drive car or pick up you can do the same on an RV. I think a Class A is easier than a Class C. For instance brakes are just bigger and simply require bigger wrenches, Exhaust manifolds can be an issue on Gassers but are easy to access on a Class A through the wheel well, on a Class C they are a lot tougher to get at.

Bill

Class As typically have more storage and are easier to work on than a Class C. Maintenance is going to be the same cost wise. Tires will cost more for the A. A s are easier to drive for most people, can see much better. I've had a few C s and A s and would never go back to a C. I can turn my 30ft  A around easier than my old 26ft C in the same space.

I am a Class C man myself. I prefer the driving position, the orientation, and I've had a Class A (Fleetwood Bounder 33U) and I don't see myself ever going back to an A. I do see myself in a Super C in the coming years.

I've put 66,000 full-time miles in a bit over three years on my Class C with a Triton v10 engine.  So far, it has been a champ with no maintenance other than oil changes required.  It hauls my 15,000 pounds up long grades in 99 degree temperatures all day without the temperature gage moving at all!  The only negative is that it really roars when downshifting, but you get used to it. 

Tires were replaced at 30,000 miles but that was due to Michelin recall, so I got 7 new tires at no cost.

I bought a C because of the driving position and also because of the increased sleeping space for kids and grandkids in the C over an A. 

All through Judy........thanks for the info.  I'm looking at a few RVs that were only a few years old but some had up to 40,000 miles on them.  It sounds like I need not be too concerned solely about that mileage as far as brakes and tires go, assuming the rig was properly cared for.

What does a set of 6 tires on a 30 foot RV A or C class go for nowadays? 

Class A tires will be more than a class C. My buddy just bought a set of Bridgestones for his 96 Storm and he told me they were a tad over $1600.00. I bought a set of Bridgestones for my class A almost 2 years ago now for $1200.00 from the same dealer. I took my tires off and took them in so they didn't have to do that part. That was mounted and balanced.

You may want to research the F53 suspension modifications, chassis weight and weighing issues, tire pressure adjustments, shore power protection, and battery maintenance issues before, rather than after, you purchase.

You did not describe your intended usage, which if for short vacations and camping in parks, gas and 30 ft should work well. I recognize your target RV is only a few years old, but I would budget around $12k in addition to the sales price just in case you have a major repair issue come up.

Be sure to check for water incursions and have a mech check it over.

Try to get written documentation of all repairs and maintenance. If you have had some preventative maintenance training, you can ask open ended questions that will to some extent compensate for the lack of written documentation (likely).

Recently, when I did an extended warranty inspection, I asked the owner what preventative maintenance he does annually for his water heater. His blank face answered my question.

His brand new one year old tires had a DOT date of 09 as to the year of mfg.

Note: when I was doing some service advisor work, one couple had us store their new Mercedes car. The dealership let them use one of their rental trucks to tow their new trailer bought from that dealership. I was checking out their car and in talking to her husband and his wife, I was mentioning how good the car looked and that looked in perfect condition. The wife/owner/driver of the Mercedes said yes. And then after she spoke I discovered that the passenger side mirror that was turned in somewhat, was smashed. The wife got all red faced when I discovered that, and the husband was none to happy looking at her askance...I can't help but wonder if she was hoping for a free fix.

"I do see myself in a Super C in the coming years."
Buy used and buy now! Then you join the smart money crowd!

RodgerS said:

You may want to research the F53 suspension modifications, chassis weight and weighing issues, tire pressure adjustments, shore power protection, and battery maintenance issues before, rather than after, you purchase.

You did not describe your intended usage, which if for short vacations and camping in parks, gas and 30 ft should work well. I recognize your target RV is only a few years old, but I would budget around $12k in addition to the sales price just in case you have a major repair issue come up.

Be sure to check for water incursions and have a mech check it over.

Try to get written documentation of all repairs and maintenance. If you have had some preventative maintenance training, you can ask open ended questions that will to some extent compensate for the lack of written documentation (likely).

Click to expand...

Whatever I do end up buying, I do plan on using a professional inspection service to examine the MH.  I would be using the MH for local trips mostly, although I would assume that the MH would likely see some long distance trips here and there. 

Obviously you do inspections.  If you have advice on how to choose an inspector/inspector service, I'm all ears.  I have no idea which state I will ultimately buy the MH in. 

My advice is to train yourself to do your own inspections, repair, and maintenance work. Plenty of resources if you just start looking. Keep reading as many threads on a variety of forums as you can for many months. Do it your way and don't worry about making others happy.
You will form and reform your opinions, ideas, and options many times.

Of course, like many do, you can just go buy, rebuy, complain about quality, lack of service, experience good and bad warranty efforts, etc. and learn on the run. It is a toy after all, that some have stretched into something else.

Learn as much as you can about motorhome body "stuff" yourself, by researching as much as possible on forums like this one.  Then you know what you are looking at when you check out used motorhomes.  Underbody-wise, any shop that works on large trucks could take a look at a motorhome chassis and give you an idea of its condition.  For instance, we have a Firestone shop in town that installs tires on large trucks and also does mechanical work (although tires are their main thing).  One of their truck mechanics is also their "RV guy" who does the work on any Class A or Class C rigs that come in.  That's the kind of inspector that I would call around and find.  Some larger RV dealerships might offer the service too, but I'd get some reviews or recommendations from some other satisfied customers first.

Do check the forum library for checklists and other items.

scottydl said:

Learn as much as you can about motorhome body "stuff" yourself, by researching as much as possible on forums like this one.  Then you know what you are looking at when you check out used motorhomes.  Underbody-wise, any shop that works on large trucks could take a look at a motorhome chassis and give you an idea of its condition.  For instance, we have a Firestone shop in town that installs tires on large trucks and also does mechanical work (although tires are their main thing).  One of their truck mechanics is also their "RV guy" who does the work on any Class A or Class C rigs that come in.  That's the kind of inspector that I would call around and find.  Some larger RV dealerships might offer the service too, but I'd get some reviews or recommendations from some other satisfied customers first.

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OK, that's good to know.  I'll google around my area and see who handles truck tires in the area.  I think we even have a few Firestones.

RodgerS said:

Do check the forum library for checklists and other items.

Click to expand...

Just found that, thanks.  Just watched the video of one of the guys replacing the rubber roof on his RV.  Didn't realize they were made of plywood and thin sheets of sytrofoam.

Another question for the forum......Is there a "best" time to buy a used RV when one can expect better deals, or is it pretty much the same all year?  I'm in the Midwest so our camping season is just about done.  I'm seeing some good deals on some nice RVs, but I'm wondering if I should just sit tight for the winter and purchase in the spring....when I assume everyone else is and perhaps driving up prices or taking away my selections : )  Or should I buy now, camp a couple times, winterize, then have it ready to go for spring. 

No firm guideline on "when". Sometimes a dealer wants to unload inventory before the off-season, but not all dealers or all inventory. Sometimes they offer incentives early, sort of pre-season, to help jump start sales. The spring RV shows are an example, but the so-called bargain "show prices" aren't always any different than what you can get anytime. They are just hyped more.

Big dealers thrive on sales volume, so sometimes they get anxious to deal when sales are slower. But they also can deal better when they are having a good month - they can afford to cut a bit deeper if they have already met the months sales target. Whether they actually will cut deeper is a different question, though.


If buying used, I would shop when the selection is best, since IMO it's more important to get what you want than to get a slightly lower price.

Instead of getting fixated on the lowest possible price, I suggest searching out the right rig for you and then determining if the price is reasonable enough to buy.