HDMI Is Making My Head Hurt

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Kim (skyking4ar2) Bertram

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Like most later model coaches, TV's and other components are relying on HDMI connections for the best pictures and sound.

Long story short, my coach was built with a very confusing engineering spec which left some devices HDMI, others component, and an HDMI switch shown on the build sheet was replaced by a component switch, and only connects to three of my four TV's.

So here's the rub - I have tried to find an HDMI A/B switch that will flip between my DVR receiver and my CD player, and after three switch attempts, multiple cable swap outs, gold connector cables, ferrite filters, I am still not there.

Does anyone use a bulletproof HDMI switch that preserves both the sound and video? I usually lose one or the other with every combination. My research leads me to believe that there are specs for the cables that have to be adhered to, but I would have thought I'd have stumbled on a solution by now.

Physically swapping cables to the desired device every time is getting very old.  :'(

Kim
 
I'm struggling to imagine how any HDMI switch would not switch both video and audio lines. Some may not do the audio return channel or other extra goodies, but the basics ought to work in all of them.  I'm wondering if you aren't experiencing some other problem than the switch itself. Some older equipment doesn't play well with multiple HDMI sources & outputs, an issue with DRM (Digital Rights Mgmt). Originally the HDMI spec did not permit multiple outputs from a single HDMI source, since this was possibly used to (illegally) copy digital material. The digital content producers wanted to be sure their copyrights were upheld. This led to a number of weird problems hooking up gear. Maybe you are running afoul of that.

Here's a review of some top brands, but I don't have any actual experience to help you.
http://www.bestreviews.guide/hdmi_switches

 
Gary RV Roamer said:
I'm struggling to imagine how any HDMI switch would not switch both video and audio lines.

There's a lot of conversation out there about whether the cable/switch meets the spec, i.e. less expensive cables and switches, older versus newer, contention between devices, etc. The consensus is that higher end switches work better, but I am still looking for someone with a working solution to piggyback.

I'd love to find the dummy who took the original 4-port switch out of my coach on the line.  :mad:

I'd be willing to accept another problem is in the mix, but it's hard to prove, unless someone makes a meter to test those HDMI cable signals.  :'(
 
I've never used their HDMI switches, but I HAVE used Monoprice for plenty of other things over the years. I've always had outstanding service from them...and their products are top-notch. (and they're my "go to" for cables...HDMI, USB, etc.)

http://www.monoprice.com/category/audio-and-video/switches-converters-and-splitters?mode=list&category_2=Video/Audio%20Switches
 
I'm guessing you have an HDMI switch on hand that didn't work for you? Can you try that with some other HDMI gear to see if it works with those?

A few years ago I had a cable tv box that disabled the video output on the HDMI port if the component video out was also active. I guess that was a way of preventing the two outputs (copying) that the DRM people were so worried about. That had me scratching my head for awhile! Since you have mixed component and HDMI, you may be running into something similar.

Nowadays they sell HDMI splitters, so they must have gotten around the DRM spec thing somehow. Or maybe the DRM people finally realized they couldn't stop progress...
 
I actually have three switches that don't behave, but some of the comments are sending me down the road of retesting everything and checking the actual connections and that they are secure.

I actually do have a way to test with other gear; you know how sometimes you get stuck on one path of diagnostics?  and I need to shake that off.

That component video thing is another place to go.

I do see that they make HDMI signal testers, but I have to believe this is something basic, since individually the components work fine, it's only when they try to be switched that they misbehave.

The reminders to rethink the diagnostics process are helpful!

Argghhh!!!  :mad:
 
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