Hi, we have a 2014 Coachmen Freelander Chevy 4500 that is causing us a perplexing problem. The rv starts one time and then an hour or so later it won't start. We replaced the cabin battery, both batteries are strong. We've tried all 3 keys, attempted to start in neutral and jiggled the shifter. Still won't start. We are planning a trip and don't want to be stranded but are at a loss as to what could be wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated from our fellow travelers.
Perplexing problem
- Thread starter 2014CF
- Start date
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Rene T
Site Team
Does it even turn over?
People use "starts" for different meanings.
To me "Start" means cranks and runs.
Not "Starting" means the motor cranks bit does not run.
Two different situations.
It it does not crank I would be looking at the starter / starter solenoid.
Start by cleaning all connections.
If it cranks but does not run, then I would look for ignition and fuel supply problems.
To me "Start" means cranks and runs.
Not "Starting" means the motor cranks bit does not run.
Two different situations.
It it does not crank I would be looking at the starter / starter solenoid.
Start by cleaning all connections.
If it cranks but does not run, then I would look for ignition and fuel supply problems.
The rv starts; we moved it from one spot in the yard to another and let it run 15 minutes earlier today. A few hours later tried to start it; the dash lights came on and it would not crank at all. This has happened several time this past week. thank you for your help.
Rene T
Site Team
Have you checked your battery connections. Make sure they are clean and tight.
Hi you say it does not crank over, can you reach the starter solinoid if you can take a test light and see if you have power to the main battery terminal than have someone turn the key and ck to see if you have power to the smaller wire that's the start wire please make sure you are not near the moving part when key is turned.if no power could be ign switch. They did have a problem with the power connection from starter to solinoid breaking at the starter. Good luck. If that doesn't work post again and I'll look up sch
John From Detroit
Well-known member
There are several differnet things with several different causes
One problem. I often ask people if they know what the biggest problem is with a Class A? They shake their head, I hold up most of my key ring (The ignition key may be missing) and say "They all fit" (on my ring the Ignition key is detachable Just three keys on the "Sub" ring, Ignition (MH) Ignition (Car) Bicycle padlock.
All that weight can cause damage to the ignition switch.. at least on SOME vehicles where the cylinder (lock cylinder) Operates the switch dirtectly.
ON other vehicles the actual swiche may be anywhere from an inch to a couple feet away operated by a rack (the cylinder operates the mathing Pinion) and again all that weight can cause failure of the rack to fully operate the switch.
Another failure mode... You turn the key and it acts like dead battery...
Low battery, Old battery, Dirty connections (Mine used to be the batteyr positive till I fixed it) BAD STARTER.
Older vehicles with cam shaft operated fuel pumps (Gasoline type) Suffered Vapor lock. Theory has it the newer "in tank" fuel pumps are Vapor Lock proof.
And this is just a short sample of different "It will not start" and different causes.
One problem. I often ask people if they know what the biggest problem is with a Class A? They shake their head, I hold up most of my key ring (The ignition key may be missing) and say "They all fit" (on my ring the Ignition key is detachable Just three keys on the "Sub" ring, Ignition (MH) Ignition (Car) Bicycle padlock.
All that weight can cause damage to the ignition switch.. at least on SOME vehicles where the cylinder (lock cylinder) Operates the switch dirtectly.
ON other vehicles the actual swiche may be anywhere from an inch to a couple feet away operated by a rack (the cylinder operates the mathing Pinion) and again all that weight can cause failure of the rack to fully operate the switch.
Another failure mode... You turn the key and it acts like dead battery...
Low battery, Old battery, Dirty connections (Mine used to be the batteyr positive till I fixed it) BAD STARTER.
Older vehicles with cam shaft operated fuel pumps (Gasoline type) Suffered Vapor lock. Theory has it the newer "in tank" fuel pumps are Vapor Lock proof.
And this is just a short sample of different "It will not start" and different causes.
Molaker
Well-known member
It could be the park/neutral switch. Try moving the shifter into the neutral position (must turn key on).
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Won't crank could be a bad connection on the starter wiring, a defective starter (a bad spot of the motor armature), or a defective park/neutral switch (it won't crank unless the switch signals it is in Park or Neutral).
Garyi
Active member
Turn on and watch headlights. If lights go out or dim when you try to crank you have a bad connection at battery or cables, if lights stay on bright check crank signal wire at starter for power when in crank mode with key. If test shows power at starter crank terminal starter is bad. This is not unusual for GM starters
Nomadb1
Well-known member
I had an old truck that used to just not crank every now and then. I'd always have to jump the starter from the main terminal to the solinoid with a screw driver.
Found out that when it would not start it was only getting 10v to the solinoid but most of the time got 13.5v. It took a while but I finally figured out that one of the 8 or so wires on the connector to the ignition was pushing back into the socket when it was connected to the ignition, such that it was only pushed up against the blade not seated on it properly - once it finally spewed all the factory smoke up from behind the dash it was relatively easy to diagnose - I would highly recommend finding the cause before that point - but it worked for me
Good luck,
Brian
Lisle part 20750 remote start switch
Attach one clip from large lead from battery to starter
Attach other lead to side of solinoid from ignition. (Gets 12v when key on start)
The copper lead in the pic and the small one at the top. Make sure the key is on when you do it. This will force the starter to crank. It won't fix your problem but it will keep you from being stuck and is safer then a small screwdriver and burnt fingers - ask me how I know.
Found out that when it would not start it was only getting 10v to the solinoid but most of the time got 13.5v. It took a while but I finally figured out that one of the 8 or so wires on the connector to the ignition was pushing back into the socket when it was connected to the ignition, such that it was only pushed up against the blade not seated on it properly - once it finally spewed all the factory smoke up from behind the dash it was relatively easy to diagnose - I would highly recommend finding the cause before that point - but it worked for me
Good luck,
Brian
Lisle part 20750 remote start switch
Attach one clip from large lead from battery to starter
Attach other lead to side of solinoid from ignition. (Gets 12v when key on start)
The copper lead in the pic and the small one at the top. Make sure the key is on when you do it. This will force the starter to crank. It won't fix your problem but it will keep you from being stuck and is safer then a small screwdriver and burnt fingers - ask me how I know.
Attachments
Thank you to everyone who replied to our perplexing problem. Our rv cranked/started/ran last night and 3 separate times today. Don't know might have caused this problem. Will be cranking it up on a regular basis to make sure we aren't stranded on our upcoming trip. Thank you again to the folks of this wonderful forum. Happy and safe travels to all.
Wanted to update the folks that were so very nice to attempt to help us with our perplexing problem. Come to find out it was a faulty starter sensor- which was replaced at no charge. Thank you again to the fine folks of the great forum! Happy and safe travels to all.
halfwright
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2013
- Posts
- 1,212
Oldracer,
The starter sensor I am used to is looking close to the flywheel housing and saying, " Yep, it has a starter."
The starter sensor I am used to is looking close to the flywheel housing and saying, " Yep, it has a starter."
William52
Well-known member
This is a gas eng? Never heard Of a starter sensor, Crank sensor yes. Was check engine light on?2014CF said:
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Another "starter sensor" might be the starter-neutral switch, which prevents cranking unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral. A faulty one would have the symptoms described here.
