Help us choose a good bunkhouse trailer

Thank you all for the huge database you compiled on this forum!
We're trying to make the right choice for our family of 4 that could travel approximately 2 month/ year.
I'm gonna post some finds but please feel free to ignore the ones that don't stand a chance. I know that time is precious for everybody.
http://loz.craigslist.org/rvs/5403920092.html - 2008 Coachmen 32' Bunkhouse Travel Trailer - $12000 (3h 40' ride one way)
https://topeka.craigslist.org/rvd/5369636700.html - 2013 Hornet Hideout 270LHS 29' - $13500 (1h 30')
https://topeka.craigslist.org/rvd/5401771240.html - 2013 KEYSTONE SUMMERLAND 2600 28FT  - $10950 (5 h 15 min) - no separate bedroom or bunk room
I'm not sure about the brands. I read a lot about choosing the right trailer but everyone said it is just a cosmetic choice. But last year I remember reading about Jayco being not so good but Keystone being a good brand. Am I mistaking?

what is your tow vehicle firstly? and welcome to the forum

Thank you!
We were told to look for the trailer first. We don't have the truck but we are looking at some 1/2 ton mainly Ford F-150 crew cab. Even a super cab for the right price though the kids will hate it.
I found some trailers that have 7000+ lbs dry weight but I think it would be to much to tow.

Out of those 3 I'd still take the Coachman bunkhouse I linked you. For a family of 4, I'd want the largest trailer I could afford. Would defiantly have to have a slide, even though I don't have one in my coach. Buy the house first then buy the tow vehicle. You can always use the two top bunks for more storage, always need more storage.

My 05 Silverado Z71 crew cab weighs 5400 lbs and can tow 8400 lbs. While I've never pulled a camper with it I have pulled race cars on trailers with it, both with and without an equalizing hitch. It pulls a trailer with an equalizing hitch much better, much better ride.

Any luck?

Thanks for the input. We looked at trucks in 2 dealerships and none of the ones we test drove were ok. One was so-so bad... I'm getting better at this.  ;D It was 2012 I think but it was full of rust even under the foot pedals inside the car and spray painted above the wheels. The steering wheel was cracked and the seats were full of spots.
We concluded that we need a truck that was used as a normal car, by a nice lady or gentleman.... so we'll keep looking.

As for the 2008 Coachmen 32' trailer I was wondering isn't it harder to tow, drive, park a bigger trailer? I was watching some parking videos and it seems difficult. And for the this trailer we need to take a whole day off for the 7h 30' drive.
This is more expensive but it's in our town: https://topeka.craigslist.org/rvs/5348140982.html (33ft Bunkhouse Travel Trailer - $14500)

That's nice too, also newer. Wouldn't think a 32 ft trailer would be much different than a 24 ft trailer as far backing one up.

92GA said:

That's nice too, also newer. Wouldn't think a 32 ft trailer would be much different than a 24 ft trailer as far backing one up.

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about 8 feet difference  ;D kidding (sarcasm) with a travel trailer anything in the 14 - 22 ft handle the same and the 22- 30 ft  are the same and the over 30 ft range are about the same - its mostly due to distance from the hitch to the wheels and the turning points in reverse - but you get used to it like anything else. 
my guess Gugu is your in Topeka Kansas? 32 feet is really long if you get caught in a crosswind its a giant sail behind you, a 3/4 ton would be a much better choice your really pushing the limits on a 1/2 ton

file:///C:/Users/steve/Downloads/2010pumabrochure.pdf

before you buy a vehicle check the cargo capacity sticker on the drivers side door post - yellow stick that tells you how much you can carry on a trailer that size your looking at a pin weight of 1100lbs plus you the misses the kids etc will eat up a 2000 lbs cargo capacity in a hurry  also check this site out is not 100% accurate but close enough
http://www.towingplanner.com/

It is critical you match the TT and truck carefully!!  Salesmen lie.  For an example, read this:     

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,90933.0.html

As  general guideline, ALWAYS use trailer GVWR in calculations.  The salesmen disagree, but nobody camps in an empty TT.  Any weight below GVWR is a safety margin.


TEST 1

Check the truck in    http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/    to determine the max towing capacity.  Note this assumes an empty truck with just a 150# driver.  Additional passengers and cargo must be subtracted from this.

TEST 2

For a given truck, check the driver door for a sticker with the truck GVWR.  Subtract the truck curb wt.  Subtract the weight of all passengers and cargo carried in the truck.  Subtract 100# for the weight of the hitch.  This is the weight remaining for the Tongue Weight (TW) of the TT.  Anything morel overload the truck.

A good rule of thumb for TW is 12% of TT weight.  Take the number above for remaining truck weight and multiply by 8.  This is the GVWR for heaviest TT this truck can handle.

Assume the remaining truck capacity is 1000#.  This times 8 = 8,000#.    12.5% tongue weight on an 8,000# TT = 1,000#.

TEST 3

Determine Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GVCWR or GCWR) for the truck.  The total for the loaded truck (less TW) plus the TT  GVWR must be less than GCWR.

The GVWR, GCWR and trailer towing capacity for F150 trucks is all over the map, so check each truck you consider.

I would suggest you also look at F250 trucks.  They have significantly higher towing capacity.  It will tow this TT better, and probably allow for an upgrade later.

Keep reading and happy shopping!

grashley said:

I would suggest you also look at F250 trucks.  They have significantly higher towing capacity.  It will tow this TT better, and probably allow for an upgrade later.

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Yes, we came to the same conclusion after seeing the trailer. It's HUGE!!! I don't know why it seems so big compared to the ones we've seen at the dealers. The newer F-250 with fewer miles are more expensive that the F-150s.... But we will really check everything (and ask you knowledgeable guys all about it).

The trailer was kept in a barn with a new (huge) insulated garage door. They bought the trailer from another family in the same state that delivered them the trailer. They said that they will deliver the truck to us the same. It was a nice family with 4 kids and the trailer was used as a second home for the in laws when they were visiting. So it's in great condition, no water damage (none that I could see inside, in the cabinets, near the slide or the windows). I pushed some ceilings and walls and they seemed firm. Just 2 spots one in bedroom and bathroom on the ceiling seemed to move a little bit when pushed. But not soft or cracked.
The caulking seemed ok just above the tires was a little lose. We didn't look on the roof. The rubber seals seemed ok near the slide all over. They turned the heating on and it heated up the trailer pretty good in 15-20 minutes. He didn't know how to open the manual awning.
Some other observations. We took of our shoes when we entered the trailer so they were keeping it clean. The smell was somehow strange (to me it was almost like new furniture but the hubby was a little bothered) but after the heating was on it smelled of natural wood, rather pleasant. I've noticed some insect traps in the cabinets I don't know if it is a common thing.
Other concerns and questions:
1. If the trailer stayed ~ 2 yrs. in one place is that bad? I don't know if the first owners kept it in a garage but the ones that are selling it now, did't travel much (they have 4 kids and the small one is 3).
2. If we buy from an owner we have to pay the state's sales tax?
3. What do we need to do to buy a trailer from an owner (buying from dealers seems simpler)?
4. If buying this or something similar what would be a reasonable price to negotiate?

Just because the trailer looks new, check the tires carefully, they may be 5 or 6 years old. Far as tax goes you may have to call the DMV in your area to find out about sales tax. If the seller has a clear title for the coach all you need to do is get a cashiers check made out to them from your bank. Take the title to the DMV and fill out the paper work. Your bank will put a lien on the title and probably take possession of the title. If the seller still has a lien on the title then ask your lender what's the best way to handle the paper work.

He did not change the tires so they're probably 5 years old.
He did't say anything about changing the caulking or other maintenance jobs done to the trailer.
Here I have a pic of the yellow sticker on the door:
UVW is 6917

I would deduct at least what a new set of tires would cost you to replace, he did say OBO in his ad. And he has had the trailer listed for 2 months. He also has it priced between high and low retail so you may have a bit of wiggle room on the price. Go talk with your lender to find out what they deem the loan value is before you make an offer. Then YOU will know what it's worth in your area. The caulking may still be good if it hasn't been in the weather, it sure does look nice.

Thanks. My husband will inquire with the DMV and the bank.
We have mixed feelings regarding the weight and the size of this trailer. And we can't find a good truck (newer than 2010 with 4 doors, in very good shape) for a good price. The F-250s are more expensive.
I found a small one, nice quality but no privacy... https://kansascity.craigslist.org/rvs/5406821660.html - 2006 R-Vision Max Lite 24RS - $11250 but maybe it would be a good first TT being easier to tow, park and towable by a 1/2 truck or even an SUV
I was wondering... could we add drywall to the back slide, the one with the big bed?
We will probably look at more trailers because we learn so much.

That trailer don't even compare to the other one. I think you'd get tired of that real quick living in it 2 months at a time, I know I would. You can't even use the dinning table unless the rear bed is out, does it have soft sides? You're going to have a hard time finding a trailer that you can live in for the length of time you want to, and have some privacy, and have it 1/2 ton towable.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5408418088.html
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5409875556.html
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5399426584.html
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5418578576.html

There are some trucks out there, but they won't be cheap. Any of the 1500 HD trucks should be able to pull the trailer. Some of them with the larger motor can. You have to remember what these trucks cost new.

We found a nice F-150 with all the bells and whistles http://www.briggsnissanlawrence.com/vehicle-details/2013-ford-f-150-4wd-supercrew-145-lariat-manhattan-ks-id-11809270
We found that the maximum towing would be 7500# because it doesn't have super duty package.
So no trailer above 27' won't be towed by a F-150.
The small one lite series is 4480#. So it would probably be ok.
We have to think about that because we would like some fuel economy, comfort in the truck but we also need more space in the trailer with the 2 kids... :-\
This another Lite series but I can't find the GW for it: https://topeka.craigslist.org/rvs/5383593560.html - 2006 Pilgrim 28' Lite - $7500

You really need a F250 for two month trips.

Usually, buying a trailer (legally) is similar to buying a car.  Agree on price, pay seller, they give you  a SIGNED,  NOTARIZED title.  Take to DMV, pay sales tax, transfer and title fees.  New title in your name is sent to you or the bank, depending on the state.

The tires have a four digit date code molded into the sidewall, indicating manufacture date.  The first two numbers are the week of the year.  The last two are the year.  ex  1810 was made in the 18th week of 2010, or May, 2010.  Any thing older than about 6 years old are suspect, regardless of tread depth or how "new" they look.

grashley said:

The tires have a four digit date code molded into the sidewall, indicating manufacture date.  The first two numbers are the week of the year.  The last two are the year.  ex  1810 was made in the 18th week of 2010, or May, 2010.  Any thing older than about 6 years old are suspect, regardless of tread depth or how "new" they look.

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Thanks. Will keep that in mind.
We will probably go 2-3 weeks at a time, during the summer (most of it) but also spring break, 2 month in total. But I know that all of you are right. When packing especially with kids we need to carry half of the house anyway. So we won't like the crowded small trailer.
We just need to find a nice truck that can pull a 27' trailer. I still think that the 33' was huge. The 6' are almost the length of a Smart car...  I find that diving a truck is tricky, with the trailer it would be difficult. Let's not make it frightful (for me).
92GA, thanks for the help! I found a dealer 1h 30' away and they have some F-250s. We have to go and test drive some of them. We really liked the last F-150 because it was sporty and drove really well. The other ones we tried were bulky and sluggish. And we need a newer model because we hope to postpone the repairs.
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5413971480.html
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/5414015389.html

BTW how many miles are too much for a truck like this? So many of the F-250 have diesel engines...

Will something like this F-150 tow 11,000#? http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c21953&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c24997&zip=66610&distance=100&searchChanged=true&fuelTypes=2&fuelTypes=5&maxPrice=24000&maxMileage=111000&modelChanged=true&filtersModified=true&sortType=PRICE&sortDirection=ASC#listing=125033131
5.4L ENGINE
Axle Ratio - 3.73
Engine: V8
SuperCrew 4WD
+ 20" ALLOY WHEELS WITH NEWER YOKOHAMA TIRES
Max Trailer Tow Package
https://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/10FLMrvF150sep09.pdf

Looks like you're only interested in Ford trucks, that's OK. I prefer GM so I don't know a lot about Ford trucks. I prefer the better ride that GM trucks have, and they're not as tall, easier to get in and out of for me. Diesel trucks will pull the trailer much easier and will last longer. The last truck you linked is  good for 11200 according to that info you linked, if it has the 627 option. Don't really know the difference between a regular trailer and a lite trailer. I don't see how a lite trailer could be built as strong as regular trailer, something has to be different to cut that much weight out of it.  Pulling that 32 ft trailer won't be much if any different than the 27 ft trailer, but WILL be more comfortable. One thing about it, you can't have cake and eat it too. Just hate to see you buy a trailer that is too small then a year from now wish you would have bought the bigger one. Don't let the size intimidate you.

Guguluff said:

I found a small one, nice quality but no privacy... https://kansascity.craigslist.org/rvs/5406821660.html - 2006 R-Vision Max Lite 24RS - $11250 but maybe it would be a good first TT being easier to tow, park and towable by a 1/2 truck or even an SUV

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For 2-month living, I would agree with previous posters that the larger you can go, the better.  You will get cramped really fast in a small trailer, depending on how much of your time will be "out and about" from the actual rig.  Weather/climate will probably play a big part of that. 

One of my conditions for our bunkhouse was interior DOORS.  I wanted actual hinged doors that close (no curtains, no sliders, etc.) for the bedrooms on each end.  We found it eventually, through my constant online shopping and researching... and got an outstanding price from a private seller too!  Our Forest River's bunkhouse bedroom is totally unique, L-shaped with its own cabinets and entertainment center space (see attached floorplan diagram).

All the prices you've posted so far are quite on the high end too, but there is always room for negotiation.  I think the trailer I bought was priced at $11k on Craigslist, and I bought it for $8500 cash.  Book value was in the $11k-12k range and most dealer were selling similar models for $14k-15k.  To say I bought ours for almost half price is not too far from the truth.  I had communicated via e-mail and phone with the seller probably a dozen times before driving ~2 hours to see the trailer in person.  I made NO mention of money or an offer until that day, and I borrowed a camping buddy's truck to tow it home if the deal worked out.  I met with the seller and inspected the trailer top to bottom for almost 2 hours, getting all sorts of history and conversing with the seller (single woman with teenage kids who were starting to outgrow camping).  By the time all of that stuff passed, she knew I came prepared and was a serious buyer.  It was in her best interest (if she wanted/needed to sell the trailer, which she did) to make a deal... and we did. 

I simultaneously was making the same research/planning/shopping journey with our tow vehicle that I bought, a 3/4 ton Suburban (fairly rare).  Ended up with an older model than originally planned, but it was the perfect mix of opportunity, availability, and price.  I drove about 2 hours for that purchase too.

Guguluff said:

I was wondering... could we add drywall to the back slide, the one with the big bed?

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You could, but it would require some stud framing which would add weight and take away space (fairly precious in RV's).  In our first motorhome we owned, the first owner had added a closet along one side of the rear bedroom and boxed off one side window.  We ended up tearing it all out because the storage space was SO narrow and we wanted the larger bedroom and window access.

Guguluff said:

We will probably look at more trailers because we learn so much.

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EXCELLENT idea.    There is a lot of prep and planning that should go into purchases like this, so don't take it too quickly or too lightly.  The more you shop and see what's out there, the more you will understand better what your options are and what kind of truck/trailer combo will work best for your needs.