Please help me understand my RV electric

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Looks like you could raise the battery box a couple of inches and WD brackets would clear underneath.
 
well duh, if I orientate the batteries end to end, rather than side by side I would get the clearance, just need a slightly longer box

supermanotorious said:
finally got my batteries and did a quick test fit with some scrap angle from an old bed frame, the weight distributing hitch hook up brackets are in the way of where the battery box needs to be welded and I'm a little jammed here, I know I could cut the brackets off the mounting clamp and weld them to the frame and then they would be a permanent part of this trailer, none of that scares me but I don't want to spend the time, energy, or cut off discs removing the clamp from the bracket so I dunno, will have to think about it, no worries though, steel yard is closed for the rest of the weekend so I have the week to think it over

also, I swapped out all the interior and exterior lighting (less the running lights) with LEDs from Amazon, however they are not as bright as the incandescent automotive bulbs and that's not going to work, so I probably need to send them back and order even more expensive bulbs
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made that box!

Once we're off to the races, I'd like to know which would be the best method of charging the batteries:

(A) plugging shore into the generator so the converter charges
(B) run generator to power my Schumacher 3-stage charger
(C) run generator and freebase the 12V output to the batteries
(D) 45 watt solar panel kit
(E) all or some of the above at the same time
 

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Nice job on the box. You might think about painting the inside with a acid resistant paint to help protect it. Hate to bring that up after the batteries are installed.
Bill
 
WILDEBILL308 said:
Nice job on the box. You might think about painting the inside with a acid resistant paint to help protect it. Hate to bring that up after the batteries are installed.
Bill
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I used to be the maintenance supervisor at a sulfuric acid plant, we made battery acid by the truckload. The best acid resistant paint you can buy is any 2 part epoxy.
 
I wondered why my batteries did not come with a carrying strap. A quick Google image search of 6V battery banks will show virtually no one has them. I found on Amazon and almost spent the dough. After some thought I realized I could make one out of stuff I already have. 4 s-hooks and a length of water sports rope I eye-spliced and wahlah: a DIY 6V battery strap.

I'd still like some thoughts on best method of charging the bank when off the grid.
 

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Off-grid your choices are solar, wind or a gas/diesel/LP fuel generator. The "best" depends on how much charging capacity you need, where you will be, your budget, and tolerance for noise. For example, solar or wind power generation is rarely usable in forest locations.
 
Right, but can I use solar, my microprocessor controlled charger (running off generator), and shore line (converter/charger) running off generator at the same time?
 
Sure. My coach is set up that way. The chargers may get fooled into thinking no charging is needed because the controller "sees" the voltage the other(s) are already applying, but who cares as long as some charger is doing the job.
 
You can use all at the same time, providing the separate charger works with other sources. My portable charger will see the 14+ volts from the converter or solar and thinks the battery is full.
Hopefully you meant 450 watts of solar, not 45? Rule of thumb is 1 watt per amp hour of battery. 45 will do squat for you.
 
I did mean 45 watt solar kit- bummer. Well I got the box painted, welded to the tongue, and batteries wired up. Seriously bummed the "1200" watt inverter can not handle the "700" watt microwave.
 

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Gary RV Roamer said:
Peak load on a 1200W inverter is about 100 amps (DC), so 1/0 seems like overkill. Of course, wire can't be too large, except for fitting into the terminals on the inverter. They look more like 2 gauge or maybe even 4 gauge size.

I ordered the same unit yesterday, along with its remote. Just the right size for my upcoming residential fridge project.
Click to expand...

How is the inverter working for you? I'm pretty upset it wont handle a 700 watt microwave with true 2ga wiring.
 
Interesting- while putting the microprocessor controlled charger on the 12V output, and the 12V showing as fully charged, I can individually charge the 6V batteries for several hours more. Is that necessary to desulfate the batteries anyway?
 
I assume you mean that as I charge as 12V, but I don't see how that is required as there is a direct connection to the other post.
 
Still charging as 12V either way, just better balance when charging through the main leads.
The way it is the one bank will suck the amps first and the second bank will not get as many amps.
 
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