The immovable lug......

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Rene T said:
They may have not been crossed threaded. Kind of hard to cross thread if you start them by hand at least one thread then use a gun. They would have known right away when they stated winding them on if they were cross threaded. They may have galled during installation because of no lubrication. I always use a little bit of never seize to help prevent that.

Jane hates Never Seize....if she get within 20 feet of it she wears it all day....It doesn't help that I put it on everything.
 
catblaster said:
Jane hates Never Seize....if she get within 20 feet of it she wears it all day....It doesn't help that I put it on everything.

I'm the same way. I walk around it and still get it all over myself.
 
Never Seize is an odd product...you can spread it so thin...you can paint a large house with a tiny can of the stuff...and if you get it someplace it doesn't belong...you can almost never get it off...

There's a lot of controversy about using never seize on lug bolts. Some folks swear by it, other folks claim that it allows you to tighten the bolts/nuts tighter than they were designed...which can cause all sorts of problems. (wet torque vs. dry torque) (IMO, just reduce the torque a bit from the dry torque rating)

Personally, I did it for decades...but I had to stop after all the wheels fell off my car and killed me.  ::)
 
Great info guys, thanks. I went to a local shop today and explained it to the owner who was very understanding. He pulled the wheels, rotated the tires, and replaced the damaged lugs. The wheels were hand torqued when re-installed. 

Before going to the shop, I call the Les Schawb that did the rotation back in July. I talked to the manager, Nathan, who was very understanding with my dilemma. He stated that they try hard not to have that occur, but mistakes to happen. He also said to have it taken care of and he would make it right.  A real stand up guy.

Part of the reason he sighted was that the acorn lugs that are used by Jeep, Ford, and VW are prone to being easily over tightened. This was not the first time that he has heard of this kind of problem happening.  Even the owner at the local shop agreed that the particular type of lugs used can be a problem if they are not real careful putting them on.
 
That is one thing I like about my air wrenches.. The largest one can NOT over-torque the wheels on this motor home, Does not have the torque to do that.. I have to finish by hand.
 
After reading the specs on my Workhorse W22 chassis, I  think I would have a BIG problem when the wheel nut torque is 475 lbs!
 
has anyone used one of these to remove stubborn lug nuts?  http://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Torque-Multiplier-Saving-Wrench/dp/B00MI0DOW6/ref=sr_1_4/188-9454129-8770324?ie=UTF8&qid=1457028732&sr=8-4&keywords=torque+wrench+multiplier
 
Bill N said:
After reading the specs on my Workhorse W22 chassis, I  think I would have a BIG problem when the wheel nut torque is 475 lbs!

If you are not set up for it then YES, it is not for the faint of heart.  I have a 3/4" impact that I use on my coach for removal and a 3/4" Proto torque wrench for installing my tires/wheels.

Mike.

 

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catblaster said:
has anyone used one of these to remove stubborn lug nuts?  http://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Torque-Multiplier-Saving-Wrench/dp/B00MI0DOW6/ref=sr_1_4/188-9454129-8770324?ie=UTF8&qid=1457028732&sr=8-4&keywords=torque+wrench+multiplier

I have used a torque multiplier before but buyer beware, they are not all created equal.  Some are truly junk and don't hold up.  If you are planning on getting one, get a decent quality one or when you think you are covered it will leave you wanting.

Mike.
 
I had the same problem with a lug nut on my '07 Chrysler Pacifica some months back.  I figured I'd save a few bucks and rotate the tires myself... boy did that backfire on me!  :p  After days of frustration, purchasing a Craftsman lugnut remover set (that just ripped the lugnut in half, but left the inner half attached and still stuck), I ended up paying more than I want to admit for parts + labor to cut the entire lug off and replace it from the rear side.  Ah well, nobody ever said vehicle ownership was cheap!
 
zmotorsports said:
I have used a torque multiplier before but buyer beware, they are not all created equal.  Some are truly junk and don't hold up.  If you are planning on getting one, get a decent quality one or when you think you are covered it will leave you wanting.

Mike.


any recommendations?  The one I linked to has a "plastic" extension, to me that is an indication that the rest of the tool may be junk
 
catblaster said:
any recommendations?  The one I linked to has a "plastic" extension, to me that is an indication that the rest of the tool may be junk

I have had good luck with the Snap-On, Proto and OTC torque multipliers but they are quite expensive especially for a tool that is not used very frequently.  My recommendation would be to keep an eye out for a used one, which is what I did.  They are on ebay and probably your local CL once in a while where someone will purchase one to do a specific job and then realize they don't need it again or use it as often as they thought they would so they put it up for sale.

Mike.
 
SargeW said:
Talked to the Les Schawb guy today. He is sending me $22 for my trouble, and apologized for the trouble.  Great customer service!

Good to hear they are trying to make it right. 

Mike.
 
I just got tires on my TV at PEP Boys in Dothan Al. and they used a torque wrench, fist was the air tool set at low air and then he went around and torqued all the wheels.
In fact I ask him what the torques seting was and he replied 135 LBS
 
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