Atwood Water Heater Anode Rod

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Pitt38Pitt

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Mar 8, 2016
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Hi all,

I'm new to the site.  I'm looking forward to getting some good feedback from you all.  I have a 6 gallon Gas Atwood Water Heater.  I am looking to replace my anode rod.  I am not having any luck finding a similar one to the one that I had.  It has 2 wires attached to the end of it.  Well, it had 2, but one became disattached, which is the reason I am looking to replace it.  Does anyone know where I can find one like this?  Or is it necessary to get one with the wiring?  Would it still work on gas without it or is this needed for the heater to become ignited?  There is also nothing about it in my manual.  It just shows a typical drain plug.  It is on a 1989 Winnebago Chieftain.  Thank you for any input.  I look forward to talking to you experts.

Thanks,

Matt
 
That's not an anode rod, it's an add-on electric heating element. You water heater will work fine on LP without it. The original Atwood pipe plug that goes there is nylon, although I've successfully used CPVC plugs as well with good results. Unlike their Suburban counterparts, Atwood heaters do not need an anode rod, as the aluminum tank is a natural anode. Suburban's glass lined steel tanks, do use an anode for corrosion prevention.

If you want to replace the failed heating element, and the old one has a plug in cable, then it's most likely a "Hott Rod" conversion unit. I don't know if the cord and plug are available separately, but the complete unit can be found here. If the wires are attached to the heating element permanently, it's likely a Camco Hybrid conversion unit like this one. The element alone with the wires attached, can be found here.
 
Hi Dutch,

Thank you for the quick response.  I really appreciate the input.  Here are a couple pictures that I took quick.  Some of the stuff you posted looks very close to what I need, the diameter of the plug end just seems to be different
 

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I could be wrong, but I think what you have is the old style Hott Rod element that was sized for just the Atwood heater. The curent model comes with adapters to fit either Suburban or Atwood heaters. Given the age, I think I would consider replacing the whole thing with either brand kit if you still want the electric heating option.
 
We installed a hybrid kit to our 6 gl Atwood hot water heater and it only heats the water for about 30 sec then it?s cold again. What?s wrong ?
 
NY_Dutch said:
I could be wrong, but I think what you have is the old style Hott Rod element that was sized for just the Atwood heater. The curent model comes with adapters to fit either Suburban or Atwood heaters. Given the age, I think I would consider replacing the whole thing with either brand kit if you still want the electric heating option.
Click to expand...

You are not wrong.  Though Atwood DOES make one model that DOES use an anode rod. (From what I'm told) most of them do not. Surburan's use anode rods. THe tanks are of different metal and that is the reason.

The HOTT Rod is an electric heat element 400 Watt range. and there shoudl be a thermostat possibly zip-tied to the TPR (Temperature Pressure Relief) Valve.  near the top of the Outside of the tank, or possibly "Taped" to the inside against the tank at some spot (The newest ones tape it to the tank INSIDE the RV).

NOTE: This works amazingly well. I use a 375 Watt electric element in my water heater.
 
Tgrisham said:
We installed a hybrid kit to our 6 gl Atwood hot water heater and it only heats the water for about 30 sec then it?s cold again. What?s wrong ?
Click to expand...

I assume you mean something like the Hott Rod

IF I had to guess. Bypass valve is open on a 3-valve system.

As the water heats it expands. Hot water is forced into the pipes outside the heater.. When you start to draw water the hot is in the pipes but is quickly exhaused leaving you with cold BYPASS water.

Option 2 is the outside shower.
 
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