2000 Adventurer 35U - 110v Elect Problem

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

BrentHG

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2015
Posts
79
Location
South Florida
The GFI duplex outlet on the end of the sink cabinet keeps tripping, so I replaced it thinking it had gone bad.  Still the same problem, so I replace the 15amp circuit breaker, still trips GFI.  Anyone with 110v AC experience have an idea where I should be looking for the trouble?  There must be a a dead short somewhere.
 
Is it tripping without anything plugged in or only when you plug in a specific device. It may be that the outdoor receptacle is on the same circuit and is wet or damp.
 
I would check any outdoor plugs (as on the Patio) for moisture. A GFI plug can protect up to 6 other daisy chained ordinary plugs and so there are many candidates for checking (possibilities might include plugs found in storage compartments, bathroom sink area,  120V in back of the refrigerator etc.)
 
John Canfield said:
See if it trips when unplugged from shore power and with the gen set running.

Hey John,  it trips on shore power or generator power.  I have checked the outside duplex, dry as a bone.  Must be another outlet somewhere.  I have a technician working on it.
 
If all of the outlets on that circuit are unplugged, then you might have a chafed wire.  I'm trying to think if I've ever heard of a circuit breaker causing a GFCI trip.  We need Seilerbird here for an opinion.
 
A GFCI trips when the hot or neutral wires in the outlet are shorted to ground, e.g. the ground wire or the RV chassis. The short may also be downstream from the outlet, if additional outlets are daisy chained to it (very likely in an RV - see the schematic Chris provided). Breakers have nothing to do with GFCI tripping.

If you don't have any lucjk visually inspecting for a short, disconnect the wires that daisy-chain to the next outlet and see if the trip still occurs. Repeat this process one at a time, along the line of outlets until you isolate the one that is causing the trip.  The optimum method is to pick a place in the middle of the circuit first, thus immediately showing which half has the problem. The other popular technique is to start at the  farthest end and work back towards the GFCI outlet.  That may take longer (depending on where the problem lies), but when you get to the one that stops the tripping, you know you have the culprit!
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
...If you don't have any lucjk visually inspecting for a short, disconnect the wires that daisy-chain to the next outlet and see if the trip still occurs...
I was going to recommend he do that but Winnie doesn't break the wiring at an outlet - it just presses on the Romex.
 
My coach is the same and it's a pain to disconnect outlets. However, I don't know any other way to isolate a short if a visual inspection doesn't turn up the problem area.

He only has to disconnect the hot (black) wire at each point, so one wire only.
 
If his gfci is the usual household outlet and is protecting outlets downstream there will be line and load terminals, so the receptacle wont be pressed on.  Feed wires into line and downstream protection on load terminals. 
A gfci works by measuring the amperage that goes out ( on black wire) vs what comes back (on white wire). If it is 5 mA or greater difference it will trip out
If there is a direct short, ie power to ground, the breaker or fuse should be what trips.
First place I would look is to ensure the white and black on line side are both from the feed set. This is because you changed the plug.
Another place to look is to find out what the cct is feeding. There may be something on the cct that has a ground fault in which case the gfci is doing its job.
 
We had a very small water leak in a shower pipe that sprayed on an outlet.  It kept setting of the GFI.  It took a while to find it.
 
Bob T said:
If his gfci is the usual household outlet and is protecting outlets downstream there will be line and load terminals, so the receptacle wont be pressed on...
AFAIK, the outlets are pressed on to the wire, like the image below.  I'll have to check mine to see what kind of receptacles I have downstream of the GFCI, you might be correct.
 

Attachments

  • PushOnDuplexOutlet.jpg
    PushOnDuplexOutlet.jpg
    17.4 KB · Views: 17
To the best of my knowledge, if Winnie is using pressed on connections the only one that wouldn't be pressed on is the gfci.
The terminals have to be seperate (line and load) so downstream protection may be achieved. Everything else may be and probably is the way John described.

 
I think we all agree the non-GFCI outlets will be the press-in type. The real question is whether there is enough wire slack at those outlets to pull them out enough to work on. It's not impossible to pull the hot wire from a press-in, but it takes some effort and needle-nose pliers and you need to be able to get at the back side with tools.
 
If you are working with the Hubbell Wirecon receptacles, you can snip the black wire between the two insulation displacement connections. Then just remove the downstream conductor. Snip off the area that had been in the contact and press the new end back into the contact with a slip joint plier. Continue to the end of the circuit. If you want to replace with a conventional receptacle, and there is enough depth, you can use Wago 3 conductor connectors. Insert the two conductors from the Wirecon receptacle and a pig tail a few inches long into the connector. The connect the pigtail to the new receptacle.

Hubbell Wirecon Installation Instructions
http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/InstallationGuide.pdf

Wago Connectors
http://www.wago.us/products/terminal-blocks-and-connectors/installation-connectors/overview/
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
131,913
Posts
1,387,265
Members
137,665
Latest member
skibumbob
Back
Top Bottom