Brought my RV home from storage this past week for a weekend stay at the lake and attempted to cool down the fridge on LP. The pilot or burner lit fine as usual but the fridge never cooled after several hours. I removed the jet and cleaned, also blew out the tube with keyboard spray. (RV is level and lp regulator is 1 year old and always worked fine. Stove and water heater worked great) I switched the fridge to electric and it cooled down within a couple of hours. Drove to the lake, spent the night and the next morn the fridge was warm. Setting was on 3. I turned the setting to 7 and again the fridge cooled down and actually had ice in the freezer. Took the boat out for about 4 hours and came back to a warm fridge. Brought the rv back home, plugged it in and fridge has'nt worked at all. I guess my ? is, what do the LP and elec share that would cause neither to work, besides the cooling unit itself. Thermostat maybe? Any help would be much appreciated, Newby to this site, thanks Dan
Dometic RM 2510
- Thread starter 3dhunt
- Start date
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
You hit it - the cooling unit and the thermostat are common. Actually, the only difference between electric and gas is the heat source that drives the cooling cycle. so everything else is common.
If the gas flame lights and burns, your gas system and ignition control are working fine. That also means the thermostat is function, since the controller wouldn't light the burner unless the thermostat was calling for cooling. The t-stat calibration could be off, but it's close enough to be sensing the need for more chilling.
I'm afraid your symptoms indicate the cooling unit is toast. A pinhole leak lets the hydrogen gas escape from the ammonia-based coolant and cooling performance drops radically. Eventually the ammonia will leak out as well and all cooling stops. However, your intermittent cooling seems more suggestive of a clog in the cooling unit. This typically happens if the unit has overheated frequently in the past, e.g. as when running off-level. This causes a deterioration of the anti-corrosive ingredient in the coolant and crud builds up inside, clogging the tubing.
You can view an RM2510 Service Manual here: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2510_52.pdf
If the gas flame lights and burns, your gas system and ignition control are working fine. That also means the thermostat is function, since the controller wouldn't light the burner unless the thermostat was calling for cooling. The t-stat calibration could be off, but it's close enough to be sensing the need for more chilling.
I'm afraid your symptoms indicate the cooling unit is toast. A pinhole leak lets the hydrogen gas escape from the ammonia-based coolant and cooling performance drops radically. Eventually the ammonia will leak out as well and all cooling stops. However, your intermittent cooling seems more suggestive of a clog in the cooling unit. This typically happens if the unit has overheated frequently in the past, e.g. as when running off-level. This causes a deterioration of the anti-corrosive ingredient in the coolant and crud builds up inside, clogging the tubing.
You can view an RM2510 Service Manual here: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2510_52.pdf
UPDATE: I tried my fridge again today at noon by setting the t-stat to the (5) setting. Came home from work at 4pm and the fridge was still warm. I pulled the outside cover to see if the electric element area was warm and it was cold. Around 4:30 pm I turned the t-stat to (Max) setting and at 6:30 pm the temp inside the freezer was 2 degrees!! If the freezer will get to 2 degrees, would that eliminate the cooling unit? If so whats my next move. Haven't tried it on MAX cold with LP.
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
The usual suspects.
Thermistor
Control board
Control panel
Thermistor
Control board
Control panel
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
Well, there ain't no magic involved. It has to have a way of sensing the interior temp, a thermistor, a bi metallic strip. Something is supposed to signal the need for cooling and that signal is not getting to the control circuit. It could be something as simple as a bit of corrosion on a connector. Wouldn't be the first time.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Starting to sound like an intermittent rotary temp switch or defective thermister (temp sensor). The service manual I linked above should help you diagnose those.
