All 4 tires rubbing under trailer

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I'm no spring expert, but they really look like they need serious help!  The center portion of the spring is actually curved down!!  If it were not for the axle flip already performed, this camper would be sitting on the tires when parked.

Steve is the expert!  Follow his advise.  In his job, he is in many service shops on a regular basis.  He services this area.  He knows the good ones.
 
grashley said:
I'm no spring expert, but they really look like they need serious help!  The center portion of the spring is actually curved down!!  If it were not for the axle flip already performed, this camper would be sitting on the tires when parked.

Steve is the expert!  Follow his advise.  In his job, he is in many service shops on a regular basis.  He services this area.  He knows the good ones.
Click to expand...

What he said^^^^^. This is what I meant by"return to stock" original tires ( check) original arch ( not so check)  . 

Side to side clearance should not be an issue - the springs should make the trailer only go up/down so the fender/wall being an inch away shouldn't matter esp once it sets back at the original height.  As the suspension flexes the side getting stuffed will come into the fender hole.  (Imagine the axle twisting left to right, one side comes up, one goes down, but the center is locked into position)

I also second the comment about getting stiffer springs the trade off for that being everything in the trailer gets a rougher ride.

Wet bolts = greaseable flex points at spring mounting members?
 
Oh boy.

I've been reading a lot, and I'm really hoping I've misunderstood something. 

Article explaining that "flipped axle" is a misnomer as the axle has a camber to it and needs to stay in that orientation...https://www.etrailer.com/question-30768.html

Forum post about axle camber and other relevant stuff... https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25032460/print/true.cfm

Do I understand correctly that there is supposed to be a visible camber to my axles? Mine are pretty straight. If anything, they might point ever so slightly down in the middle.

Even though my springs are on top of the axles, I see no sign that they once were on the bottom. Does that mean that they were literally flipped, rather than properly switched to the top and re-welded?
 

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In your link, you saw a guy holding up a 4' level against the bottom of the axle tube.  It shows the upward bend.

Too many of these trailers are built on the edge of destruction.  The tires, wheels, brakes, spindles, springs and axles are marginal at best.
 
You really need new springs and might even consider  a heavier set.  Just look at someone else's trailer and you will see the difference.  I'm not sure I would have them re-bend these.  New ones are not the expensive.
 
It appears the axle is already under the springs (I do not know why they build them any other way) so that fix is out.

All I can say is this needs to be fixed... new or re-arced springs may be the answer.
 
I'm going through this right now with mine, not because something rubbed but because a shackle strap and equalizer failed.  A wet bolt kit and new springs are in order and on my triple axle are going to run about $1,000 so on a tandem you can expect less.  If there's one thing that you DON'T want a catastrophic failure on going down the road it's your suspension, fix it right.
 
Ya know, I've been called cheap in the past. I personally refer to myself as "thrifty" so handing out chunks of money indiscriminately isn't really in my nature but...

Re-arcing a spring seems like just postponing the inevitable i.e. ultimate spring failure.  With spring sets costing $40-$50 per wheel position I'm not really sure that paying who knows how much to have springs re-arced is really cost effective.  Especially if you spend the $100 per axle to install a MorRyde wet bolt kit.  Keep in mind these are retail prices and if you do some or all of it yourself the savings could be significant.
 
Due to my nature, I try to find the root cause of issues, so I start by asking "why so much bend in the leafs, and what caused it?" I wouldn't really have a way to determine that, so it would drive me nuts. One suspect would be the metal the leafs were made of wasn't the best in the world. That brings me in line with what Joe said, if I were to go through the work of pulling the springs, I would just get new, along with the required hardware. I wouldn't be able to trust those old springs after re-arching.
 
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