Changing TV mount

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Relee52

Relee52

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Joined
Aug 15, 2015
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On the road
My current TV mount is fixed and I want to change it to an adjustable/extendable mount. Has anyone done this? Any weight or TV size concerns?
As usual, I appreciate any suggestions/recommendations.
TIA!
 
I am still figuring out how I am doing it but I am installing 24" and 48" flat screens on articulated mounts. The hardest part will be securing them for travel as the mounts aren't designed to have the weight bouncing up and down as you drive down the road. I have some ideas but have to implement and test them.

The 48" has to be in front of a large window while the window is still accessible to open, it uses a wall mount and has an 18" reach. The 24" uses a countertop clamp mount but I still have to come up with the stow solution for it.

I'll take photos as I do it "IF" it works out.
 
We replaced our simple mount with a fully articulated version, but we didn't change the size of the TV. The weight wasn't significantly more than the original mount, so we didn't worry about it. We also had a rubber strap that secured the TV while traveling that we continue to use. The new mount placed the TV lower on the wall so the strap secures the top 5-6" instead of being in the center; I think I will get another to add to the bottom, just to be safe. Note we have a TT, so the bouncing is more than you get with a motor home.
 
I friend of mine had an articulating arm added to his inside TV which was fairly large. The installer added a few cabinet latches to the back of the TV that clicked into place when the TV was pressed up against the wall for travel.  It took a little time to line up the latches, but last I heard it is working as planned.
 
I have done this in both MH's that I have owned, and so far no ill effects and no one has been kilt.

 

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I apologize for such a short post about the mount that I used in my previous post.
I used an inexpensive articulated mount from Best Buy ($30./$40.) I think it has a 24" reach.
The weight of the TV actually rests on the lower lip of the surrounding woodwork, and the TV is retained in place with a strap. I used snaps to secure the strap to the woodwork.
We just returned from our 1500mi "shakedown" cruise and the mount worked flawlessly, no shakes, rattles nor rolls. I have plans to add a shelf or two in the space behind the TV, now that it is accessible.


Corky
 
I'm in a TT so more movement than a MH. I have removed the fixed position mount and the wall seems pretty sturdy but there's no way to get behind it to see the structure as the bathroom/shower is on the back wall. I was thinking about doing as has been mentioned and put a piece of 1x10 attached to the wall for additional support. I'll have to check and see if any of the attaching screws were actually going into a structural member. If that's the case it should be no problem.
Beyond that, the tv has an hdmi connection but the wiring is the old component wiring which I'd like to change. It looks like the receiver (Jensen) is attached by regular Phillips screws. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with removing the receiver to alter wiring and, if so , any pitfalls to be aware of? Does anyone know if the Jensen has HDMI "out" connection?
TIA
rl
 
SargeW said:
I friend of mine had an articulating arm added to his inside TV which was fairly large. The installer added a few cabinet latches to the back of the TV that clicked into place when the TV was pressed up against the wall for travel.  It took a little time to line up the latches, but last I heard it is working as planned.
Click to expand...
I can see how that would help, but how did he attach to the tv? Did he have the male end on tv and female on the wall or vice versa?
 
Hi,

I am in the middle of doing this myself and I have another concern.
The mount I purchased looks sturdy enough for the 24" flat panel I plan to put on it.
This is for the rear bedroom and the original cabinet has been removed. The panel would hang from the roof on a articulated arm but it is sturdy.

What about the set itself?
I placed the arm on the rear of the set and there is a lot of flex on the back of the set.
Can the support on the TV itself handle the bouncing around? Has anyone ever seen the TV itself break, like the plastic back panel?
I would have expected that the mounts on the TV were supported by some sort of metal bodywork and now that I see this flexing, I am not convinced.

Of course I can figure out a way to secure it during transport but I am afraid if I forget once, I may find a smashed set sitting on the floor when I get to my destination.

Bernie
 
First picture is mine as it was when purchased.  It is on an articulated mount.  The problem is lying in bed, propped on pillows
your head hits the closet. (seePic2)

Second picture is where I will mount it on the left closet  wall.  It will fit flat or open to cover rear window for in the bed viewing.
I will have to install HD braces in the closet wall to support it though.


Third pic is the smaller TV is above the entrance door.

 
I just installed 2-32" led's, I used a fixed quick release mount I bought from amazon for $13.00, I know your looking for articulated but this isnt a bad option and its cheap, in the bedroom I removed the door, cut the skin out and put 2 planed to thickness 2x6's, then put the skin back on (the original plan was to reskin the entire side but finding skins theses days is tough, the tv covers 90% of the part that was cut out though), I then caulked the seam and painted the door and hung the TV, have not put the power or cable jack in a better location but will be doing that today.
Most of the time our bedroom door will be open but when closed the tv will be dead center.
To run the power and cable to the ceiling I will remove the crown molding and cut a small hole then heat up my fish tape (just a little) and puch it to the hole in the ceiling, using a shallow cut in box the power and cable will now be located in the center of the ceiling.
 

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