A ?T or ?T truck pickup, to tow a 10k to 11K RV

I notice the Big 3 will only put a 3.73 rear gear in their ?T PUs (Pickup). Some big3 ?T PUs are rated to tow 12K, but I feel 14K would give me a
margin of safety and reliability. Important when you are a long way from home. Also, many posts I have read, when the RVer is pushing the tow
limit of his or her PU towing an RV. They have some anxious periods, were the trans temp gauge reaches near max, and other things like that. To
me that's awful close to catastrophe. Once you burn up an original equipment transmission, the rebuilds never last near as long as new.

I'm looking at 2 brands of PU, Chevy & Toyota. At least, so far I have not looked much at Nissan or Ram. I don't believe Ford's EcoBoost, is a
good way to power a truck. Turbocharged cars were sold by Chrysler and several foreign automakers in the 1980s. All tried & failed at selling a
turbocharged car. When Chrysler first came out with a turbocharged car. They claimed in an ad, once you drove their new turbo, you would
never want a V8 again. Then 12 yrs later, when they came out w/V10. Chrysler said in a commercial, "there's no substitute for cubic inches".
A Ford product mgr, also admits in a video, they have learned a lot from the past problems they've had with the EcoBoost, & they are going to
fix those problems. Well, my thinking is learn on someone else. So the two PUs that I am giving serious consideration to are the Chevy 2500 &
the Toyota Tundra. Take a look at the info I found on the maker's web site.


Chevy 2500 Reg Cab, Long Box WT RWD (2016) w/6.0L V8 (360 hp & 380 ft-lb torque)
Curb Weight 5817 lb,  Max Payload 3534 lb,  Max GVWR 9300 lb
Max Conventional Trailering,  w/4.10 Rear Axle 14,500 lbs &  Max 5th Wheel Trailering, 14,800 lbs

Tundra Reg Cab Long Bed 2WD w/5.7L V8  (381 hp & 401 ft-lb torque) 
Curb Weight 4940  Max Payload 2060  GVWR 7,000 lb  Max tow cap, 10,500 lb (w/4.3 rear gears & towing pack)

Anyone have an idea why, with more torque and a higher rear axle ratio, the Toyota has such a low tow rating?

Could be suspension,  brakes, axle construction,  frame,  transmission. ... The Tundra is a 1/2 ton pick-up cut and dry. I'm pretty sure you're quoting brochure/towing guide specs. It would be wise to take those specs with a grain of salt, especially the payload.  Each truck will have a sticker on on the door pillar that will provide the specs for that particular truck. I don't agree with the F-150 being a poor truck for towing as it does a wonderful job that many Ecoboost owners will attest to. I pull a trailer that weighed 8200+ with a 1500 Ram with no issues,  so don't be putting Rams down due to the way a company advertses. Toyota and GM have their advertising issues too. I will be the first to admit 2500 Rams can have a pretty light payload rating. Real light for a 2500.

kdbgoat is exactly right. Your comparing a 1/2 ton PU to a 3/4 ton Pu and wondering why the 3/4 ton can pull more? Tires, wheels, axles, springs, brakes, and frames are much more determinate of what you can carry, than HP and torque which determine how fast you can carry it, and how quick it will accelerate.

10,000. 3/4 ton minum

Chevy does make a good ? ton truck, no doubt.  Nissan nor Toyota build ? ton trucks.

Ford offers 2 engines in their ? and 1 ton trucks - 6.2L V8 gas and 6.7L V8 Turbo diesel.  no eco boost!  These are solid trucks!

Ram also offers gas or turbo diesel engines in ? and 1 ton trucks, also good choices.

? ton trucks will always be more capable tow vehicles than ? ton trucks.  Likewise, 1 ton will always trump ? ton trucks.

How much are you actually towing? If 10k + definitely don't go lighter than 3/4 ton . Can a fat guy sit in a kids chair ? Sure ! For a few minutes before the stress snaps the legs in half .

It's simple.  The Tundra is a half ton truck (class 2A);  it just doesn't have the running gear necessary to support more trailer than 10500.  The Chevy 2500 is a 3/4 ton (class 2B truck) and benefits from increased GVWR;  some of that goes to heavier running gear and some of it goes to increased payload.

You're in solid 3/4 ton territory with a trailer over 10000 pounds.

(And, FWIW, I love my '13 EB-- it's simply glorious in a 1/2 ton truck)

grashley said:

Chevy does make a good ? ton truck, no doubt.  Nissan nor Toyota build ? ton trucks.
Ford offers 2 engines in their ? and 1 ton trucks - 6.2L V8 gas and 6.7L V8 Turbo diesel.  no eco boost!  These are solid trucks!
Ram also offers gas or turbo diesel engines in ? and 1 ton trucks, also good choices.
? ton trucks will always be more capable tow vehicles than ? ton trucks.  Likewise, 1 ton will always trump ? ton trucks.

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The RV I plan to tow has a GVWR of just over 10K lb. Loaded it should weigh about 8100 lb to 8600 lb. But, if I need to go someplace
w/full water tank, that pushes up the loaded weight, to near the GVWR. Besides being ?T, the Tundra has an all aluminum block. Which
don't last as long as an iron blocks as a general rule. If I was going w/diesel, I would chose Ram, due to the Cummins engine. But, don't
think I will tow enough to justify the cost of a diesel PU. A Ram 3500 diesel would cost $15K to $20K more. Availability is also limited.
With the new emissions equipment, I suspect diesel PUs will need more frequent & expensive to repairs. The new emissions equipment
also lowers MPG & diesel fuel costs more than gasoline.

The disadvantage of ?T is that I would have to pay near MSRP. They are never run as loss leader specials, like ?T PUs. Rebates & other
incentives  are offered on ?T PUs. But, not as often & not as much as ?T PUs.  The Ford F250 w/6.2L V8 would also work. I see GM & Ford
as rough equivalents. So, it would be more of a matter of what incentives are being offered and if the dealer will give some on price. I have
not researched Ram PUs. My father bought 3 new 1974 Dodge trucks, for his business. They were total junk! That's about when Dodge was
pretty much, kicked out of the RV business (i.e. providing chassis), due to very poor quality. 1974 & before, many RVs used Dodge chassis.

My trailer grosses at 9645. I now pull it with a 2014 F-250 with a 6.2 gasser. It seems to handle it well for the amount I have pulled it so far.

The 3 manufacturers all make very competent ? ton trucks.  There are differences, but all are strong, reliable trucks.  Dealers DO discount these trucks if you are serious.  Used ones with low miles can save serious cash, too!

Anything Chrysler made in 1974 was trash!!  I had a 1976  Volare.  Current models are much better.

Drive all three, and get the one your wife likes!!

Doug,
I owned a 1/2 ton 2009 Nissan Titan pu until Nov of 2015. My wife and I own a 2016 Keystone Cougar 32FBS with a dry weight of 7400 lbs. which when we loaded up was probably closer to what our limit was for a 1/2 ton pu. We towed with the Nissan a couple of times and realized we weren't comfortable with towing that much weight with a 1/2 ton so we garnered advice from other rvers on this site and others and realized we needed to upgrade our tv. So we upgraded to a 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD. We towed a couple of times so far this season and the truck definitely is capable of handling what we need.

I thought about diesel as well but like you could not justify the additional cost for an everyday truck with towing on weekends. So I would recommend upgrading to a 3/4 ton to handle the weight properly.

Tim

charlietim said:

I owned a 1/2 ton 2009 Nissan Titan pu until Nov of 2015. My wife and I own a 2016 Keystone Cougar 32FBS with a dry weight of 7400 lbs. which when we loaded up was probably closer to what our limit was for a 1/2 ton pu. We towed with the Nissan a couple of times and realized we weren't comfortable with towing that much weight with a 1/2 ton so we garnered advice from other rvers on this site and others and realized we needed to upgrade our tv. So we upgraded to a 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD. We towed a couple of times so far this season and the truck definitely is capable of handling what we need.
I thought about diesel as well but like you could not justify the additional cost for an everyday truck with towing on weekends. So I would recommend upgrading to a 3/4 ton to handle the weight properly.
Tim

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Thanks for that real life experience. I have come to the conclusion, a .75 ton truck is the way to go. A .5 ton just will not do the job.

There is also no reason you need to buy new, as far as your comments on MSRP and pricing goes.  If you buy 2-3 years old, you may not save much.  Older than that and there is a risk of a truck being beat up (or really high miles) from commercial/fleet use, but that is easy enough to detect and avoid.  With enough research and patience, you can find what you need for a much better price than new if so desired.  Heck my tow vehicle is a 20+ year old 3/4T Suburban (7.4L aka 454ci engine, 4:10 gears) and it does great with my 32' TT that is around 9k# loaded (although rated by its GVWR for almost 11k#).

Don't give up on the idea of a 3/4 ton PU with diesel being out of your price range.

In 2013 I bought a NEW RAM 2500 with Cummins Diesel - With an OUT THE DOOR price of $36,900. Which was less than the price of a decked out RAM with Hemi.

The secret is to deal only with the FLEET sales person at the dealer.  Don't buy options that you don't need.  My salesman, told me - you got the best deal - It's not the "Farmer truck" but it has the "essential" niceties and is set up for TOWING - fold out mirrors, tow package, Power Windows, Power door locks etc.  Has cruise control, 6 speed automatic transmission, nice stereo with CD player and Sirius Radio.

I have had people tell me that this was an impossible price, but it isn't.  If you PM me I'll give you the name and number  of the dealership and Fleet Sales Person.
Ron

hoddinron said:

My salesman, told me -

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Everything said after that was 1/2 truths....lol ;D

I actually thought the salesman's comment about the farmer truck was funny.  A farmer truck has vinyl floor coverings, stick shift bench seats etc.

Mine is a LOT better appointed than that, and has what is known as the Chrome package. 

And I agree most salesmen don't tell the whole truth, but mine does.

kdbgoat said:

Could be suspension,  brakes, axle construction,  frame,  transmission. ... The Tundra is a 1/2 ton pick-up cut and dry. I'm pretty sure you're quoting brochure/towing guide specs. It would be wise to take those specs with a grain of salt, especially the payload.  Each truck will have a sticker on on the door pillar that will provide the specs for that particular truck. I don't agree with the F-150 being a poor truck for towing as it does a wonderful job that many Ecoboost owners will attest to. I pull a trailer that weighed 8200+ with a 1500 Ram with no issues,  so don't be putting Rams down due to the way a company advertses. Toyota and GM have their advertising issues too. I will be the first to admit 2500 Rams can have a pretty light payload rating. Real light for a 2500.

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More things to look at depending on if this is a TT or 5th Wheel.  If 5th wheel then the Hitch weight will make big difference on what you need to buy.  Also remember that if you are getting a Crew or Quad or Mega, basically a 4 door truck that it takes away from the bed weight  and the overall GVCW.  Remember to take into account the passengers in the truck.  Personally it's always easier to go big and not need it then to need it and not have it. 
Also what type of traveling are you going to be doing?  Is it hilly or all flat?  how do you like your fuel mileage, 5-8 mpg or 10-13 mpg towing.  This has to do with they type engine, Diesel or gas.
250's or 2500's or larger are going to have the bigger better brakes, designed for towing and the bigger payload capacity.
Go Diesel and get an exhaust brake, for downhill grades, bigger price but well worth it in the end, IMHO.  Makes a big difference at the pump and at the hill.

You need to look at the loading sticker on the door pillar to know what the particular truck will tow/haul. Some 3/4 ton trucks have very little more payload than the max 1/2 ton. Do your homework and learn how to read the sticker. That way you will know before you buy.

keymastr said:

You need to look at the loading sticker on the door pillar to know what the particular truck will tow/haul. Some 3/4 ton trucks have very little more payload than the max 1/2 ton. Do your homework and learn how to read the sticker. That way you will know before you buy.

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ABSOLUTELY!!!

This year, Ford advertises their F150 (can) come with a 3000# payload, BUT only in XL or XLT trim, NO OPTIONS, regular cab long bed. 
A F250 Crew Cab, 4X4, Long Bed, Platinum will be close to 2000# Payload (heaviest body, all the options).  It is a much more comfortable truck, but all those comforts come at the expense of payload.

A few of here,myself included, have advised some folks the if they are getting an F-250, to spend the extra $800-$1000 and get an F-350. After reading the tow charts from Ford, and looking at quite a few F-250's and F-350's, I think that has been some bad advice due to the fact that a lot of F-250's are more capable than a lot of the F-350's. Towing weight wise, the later model trucks are the same. One would think the advantage of the F-350 is the extra payload, but that's not always true. I looked at a friends F-350 the other day and compared it to my F-250. The trucks are almost identical except color and his is 172" wheelbase and mine is 156" WB. I have over 200# more payload with my F-250 according to the yellow sticker than he has with his F-350. Both trucks have 10,000# GVWR and the springs and spring blocks are identical except he has the overload spring and contact blocks. I just want folks to know, if they are looking at an F-350, look at the black and white sticker also to see what the GVWR is. The F-250 maxes out at 10,000#, but the F-350 can go as high as 11,500#. When looking at F-350's, just be sure to check BOTH stickers to ensure you are getting more truck. I'm referring to the single wheel drive trucks here, not dually's.