Considering this "solar" inverter.

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supermanotorious

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Now that I have to start the battery bank / inverter project from scratch again, I'd like to say I learned a few things with the last go-round. The AIMS 1200W inverter was incapable of handling the 700W microwave and that didn't sit well with me. Not that we didn't have an alternative (generator) I was disappointed the "rated" capacity was misleading.

Now I'm considering spending a little more and going with this 2000W inverter http://amzn.com/B00GZBHFMY advertised for solar use. 62 reviews: 4/5 stars. I don't want to spend a small fortune on an inverter so I know I'll have to compromise in one way or another.
 
I suspect the reason the AIMS 1200W couldn't do the job had more to do with the microwave than the inverter. A microwave is rated by its output power (the amount of microwave power produced), but it actually requires about 2x that as input. Look at the rating plate and I suspect you will see an input power draw in the 1200-1400 watt range.

Battery capacity also plays a role, since a surge in demand by the inverter causes a major voltage drop at the battery(s) and can easily shut down the inverter. Again, not the fault of the inverter. The full 1200W the AIMS can produce pulls about 110A from the battery bank IF the battery can sustain 12.0v.  That's unlikely with anything less than about 400 AH of battery capacity, and the voltage drops, forcing the amp load even higher (watts = volts x amps), which depresses the voltage even further, and... (you get the idea, right?).
 
I do understand, I thought I had plenty of amp hour in those 4 6V deep cycle batteries. I can not confirm the microwave rating as that trailer is sold. Has the AIMS been working out for your refrig project?
 
Wire size and distance from batteries to inverter plays a role, as well as battery SOC.
Need optimal conditions to run a microwave.
 
The AIMS is working fine for me, but the power load is small (only a couple hundred watts).

A "rule of thumb" is that a typical microwave draws about 2x it's output wattage rating.

Yes, those 4 batteries ought to be sufficient to provide 1000-1200 watts for at least a few minutes, but a big draw will knock down the voltage surprisingly quickly. So will less than ideal wire size or a poor quality connection (as others have already commented).
 
If your goal is to run a microwave off of battery power I can give you a rough idea of what You can expect
I have a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter with two banks of 4 6 volt Trojan battery wire with 2 OT cables.
My battery banks are separate but I have them wire so I can take the two banks and merge them together for one bank of eight battery. I can run the microwave with one bank of 4 battery for 4-6 minutes before the low voltage on the inverter shuts down. With the two banks merge I can run the microwave 15-20 minutes before the inverter shuts down.
 
Thanks for the data point, quadrider. That should give "super' an idea of what is practical with his battery bank. I don't think a different inverter is going to help him much.

People don't realize that running an microwave via an inverter & battery is much the same power load as cranking a big V8 engine. They comprehend that you can't crank an engine for several minutes without killing a battery, but few realize that running a major appliance via an inverter is an equally heavy load.
 
yes this is good dialogue, I'll likely get another inverter as the wife likes to watch a movie with out running the generator at night, I thought it would have been nice to run the microwave but it's really not a priority
 
supermanotorious said:
Now that I have to start the battery bank / inverter project from scratch again, I'd like to say I learned a few things with the last go-round. The AIMS 1200W inverter was incapable of handling the 700W microwave and that didn't sit well with me. Not that we didn't have an alternative (generator) I was disappointed the "rated" capacity was misleading.

Now I'm considering spending a little more and going with this 2000W inverter http://amzn.com/B00GZBHFMY advertised for solar use. 62 reviews: 4/5 stars. I don't want to spend a small fortune on an inverter so I know I'll have to compromise in one way or another.

I have that inverter.  I can only relate my setup, we do run a microwave and single keurig with no problem.  I've posted http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,55660.msg835014.html#msg835014 a couple of months ago with more depth.  No complaints with the inverter so far with our battery bank.
 

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You just need to figure out what your power demand is going to be and plan a large enough inverter and battery bank to handle it. There are plenty of inverters around at moderate prices.

Here are a couple of sources:
http://www.donrowe.com/Power-Inverters-s/1814.htm
http://www.invertersrus.com/
 
I have the 3000 watt aims pure sine inverter, but not the solar model.  It's a great unit, I went with 3000 watts specifically for microwave and PlayStation use for the kids.  Works great with the Trojan t-145 plus bank.

If you have any questions about the Aims line, don't hesitate. I spent a small fortune and 3 months building out this system. It was a blast!
 
Check out page 4 of my thread here: http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,91264.90.html

I developed a system to power the entire 110V system from the inverter while automatically bypassing the converter's charging circuit. The system automatically bridges the converter's charging circuit and disconnects the inverter's 110V output when shore power is present.

Looks like I'll be doing that project again soon. I'll try to write a clean, concise post with highly detailed pictures in a new thread, maybe the almighty moderators will sticky that one!


jje1960 said:
I've posted http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,55660.msg835014.html#msg835014 a couple of months ago with more depth.
 
Bypassing the converter's charger would be great, but the converter draws unnecessary amps when running.  Are you saying you will run the converter while the inverter is running?  I'm not sure I see value in that.
 
supermanotorious said:
Check out page 4 of my thread here: http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,91264.90.html

I developed a system to power the entire 110V system from the inverter while automatically bypassing the converter's charging circuit. The system automatically bridges the converter's charging circuit and disconnects the inverter's 110V output when shore power is present.

Looks like I'll be doing that project again soon. I'll try to write a clean, concise post with highly detailed pictures in a new thread, maybe the almighty moderators will sticky that one!

All that advanced work is well outside the scope of our needs (and more importantly outside my talent and initiative!).  Our relatively simple setup fits our requirement, however does 'hinge' on turning off the converter before turning on the inverter.  As pointed out by the experience on the forum, making the mistake of forgetting the converter on would be very-much bad!  For now, I will rely on the BOLD sharpie letters on the inverter remote..... TURN OFF CONVERTER.  What we have is pretty simple and maintenance free though, love the AGM and humble 18 watt panel for keeping charged in the driveway.  Happy camping folks!
 
supermanotorious said:
Check out page 4 of my thread here: http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,91264.90.html

I developed a system to power the entire 110V system from the inverter while automatically bypassing the converter's charging circuit. The system automatically bridges the converter's charging circuit and disconnects the inverter's 110V output when shore power is present.

Looks like I'll be doing that project again soon. I'll try to write a clean, concise post with highly detailed pictures in a new thread, maybe the almighty moderators will sticky that one!

Just returned from a trip and used the inverter during stops and overnight stop, worked very well for microwave, coffee maker, TV, fans..... Very satisfied.
 
thanks for the update, here is the thread where I will track project progress

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,96811.0/topicseen.html
 
I looked at this inverter and I noticed that they also supply 2 sets (4 cables, 2 red and 2 black) of 7 AWG battery cables. While doing a little research on inverters, the impression I got from some of our very experienced members, sounds like 7 AWG cables are a little small for this size inverter. They recommended at least 4 AWG and possibly even 2 AWG cables.  Where they're two sets supplied with this inverter, why couldn't you double up the cables. In other words run the 2 black cables side by side and the same with the red cables.
 
Rene T said:
I looked at this inverter and I noticed that they also supply 2 sets (4 cables, 2 red and 2 black) of 7 AWG battery cables. While doing a little research on inverters, the impression I got from some of our very experienced members, sounds like 7 AWG cables are a little small for this size inverter. They recommended at least 4 AWG and possibly even 2 AWG cables.  Where they're two sets supplied with this inverter, why couldn't you double up the cables. In other words run the 2 black cables side by side and the same with the red cables.

Good call Rene, that's exactly what I did from the bank to the inverter.  This fall I may change the cables on the batteries, however I've frankly not had any problem so far.
 

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I'm still mulling this over. One concern/thought, the AIMs inverter installed easily as it had 110V wiring connections, not receptacles. The "solar" inverter has 3 receptacles, I am very handy and not afraid to open it right away. Would I find ONE leg of 110 powering all 3 receptacles, or 2 or more legs? The plan would be to remove the receptacles to hard-wire the 110V wire out.
 

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