Ok, thanks for your help. Maybe I'll give Reese a call and explain to them my dilemma and see if they can help me out with the rivot nuts. At least I have a plan to fix this and hopefully all goes well. This is the beauty of this site,everyone is here yo help or share their knowledge. Once this thing is fixed I will let everyone know how it went.
Reese duel cam stripped bolt
- Thread starter Camben
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I used rivet nuts extensively in my job and they will hold as well or much better than a self tapper. Are you telling me there is no part of the bracket that goes over the trailer frame? I find that hard to believe since there are close to a thousand lbs. of downward force on that bracket and even more when the tow vehicle hits a dip in the road. That single self tapping screw is NOT going to hold anywhere near that kind of force. A structural part would have a bare minimum of three but more likely four grade five bolts. The best way to go here is probably the phone call.
And referencing this link http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=517:reese-dual-cam-setup&catid=26&Itemid=132, the brackets most certainly do go over the frame rail.
And referencing this link http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=517:reese-dual-cam-setup&catid=26&Itemid=132, the brackets most certainly do go over the frame rail.
Rickf1985 said:
Please look at the first picture on the opening post. I'm not sure where you think that it's mounted on the top of frame. Either I'm not following you or your thinking of something else. Thank you for your input on the rivet nuts. Sounds like it should work well.
Rene T
Site Team
Rickf1985 said:
The part we're talking about is NOT the bracket that the chains hook to. It's the bracket which mounts on the bottom side of the frame. They are called CAM MOUNTS. And yes these bolts are structural.
I totally apologize! Someone had posted a diagram and pointed out the bolt at the center of the upper mount and I thought that was the one we were talking about! :-[ :-[ :-[ If you go for the nutsert be sure to get one in steel and get the one for the right thickness of the frame. The thickness is important. You can set these with a nut and two washers with grease between the washers. The tool works but is tedious and does not really set the bigger ones. Again, sorry for the confusion. I don't know why I did not see that in the beginning?
No worries at all. I didn't add the pics till later as I'm a noob at this too. I did some searching and it looks like I can buy these online. Is the tool a "must have" or can I make my own or rent this tool from an auto parts store. I see there are a bunch of different style nuts too. Hopefully Reese can send me all the associated hardware I will need.
Rene T
Site Team
Camben said:
I would be jumping down the dealers back demanding they install the hitch per the instructions. Let them locate the rivet nuts.
Rickf 1985 provided one way to set them with the bolt and greased washers. I've not tried that. In thicker metal, at work we use cordless impacts with a light trigger finger. But I'm with Rene, I would pitch a fit with the dealer. An installation like that is pretty unsafe and I'm sure they charged a pretty penny for hitch work. If you still want to do them yourself, they are also available from Etrailer. part# RP58507.
Rene T
Site Team
Camben said:
If it was me, I would at least contact the service manager and express your displeasure with their so called service techs.
And contact Reese and see if they suggest a different way just to keep yourself covered in case anything ever happens. Using a self tapping bolt in a structural situation is just not what I would call acceptable. They simply are not made for that, not nearly enough thread engagement. If that bracket required serious torque I would have drilled 3/4" holes and welded in heavy wall tube to run bolt through so they could be torqued without crushing the frame. If less torque, in the 30-50Lb.ft. range I would have fishplated the frame and through bolted it. I have been doing fabrication for 45 years and tend to overkill on some things safety related but most of my fab work is either racing or 4x4 related so it has to be tough AND safe.
I just wanted to give everyone that was involved with my issue an update. This site is a weath of info and has very knowledgeable people to lean on. I called Reese and explained what happened and he too said that it was installed incorrectly like many of you stated. I ordered the Rivnut kit from etrailer and installed it this morning. Everything went smoothly and we are ready for our next trip Friday to Assateaque State Park in Md. Thanks again for everyone's help. It was much appreciated!!
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Rene T
Site Team
Glad it worked out for you. Happy camping and safe travels.
dRickf1985 said:
Haha! I've been going there since I was a baby. We usually get around 10 campsites and its full with aunt/uncles,cousins and kids. This will be the first year with the TT. We always had a pop up. While that was great for cross ventilation but lousy for staying dry. We just hope for winds out of the east.
