flashcracker
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Posts
- 6
No 12 volt operation but works with propane and AC. Any ideas on trouble shooting this code 7?
Thanks
Stan
Thanks
Stan
Norcold 3150 Code 7
- Thread starter flashcracker
- Start date
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The Norcold manual isn't very helpful on any of the codes. View it here if you don't have one:
http://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/N3104-N3150-Installation-and-Owners-Manual.pdf
Code 7 means no cooling in 12vdc mode. Since your fridge works with AC and LP, it must be receiving external 12v power OK, though it is possible the voltage is low. In AC and LP mode, the fridge needs only a tiny amount of12v, but the DC mode electric heater sucks a lot (about 18 amps continuous). A weak battery will fall below the minimum voltage threshold under that much load. But if plugged toshore power, the Rv's own converter/charger should be supplying plenty of 12v power. Have you tried the 12v DC mode with shore power or with the coach engine running to supplement the battery?
The other possibility is that the 12v heater has failed or its fuse has blown. There is a 20A fuse on the circuit board for it. I would probably check that fuse and the heater itself as my first step.
http://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/N3104-N3150-Installation-and-Owners-Manual.pdf
Code 7 means no cooling in 12vdc mode. Since your fridge works with AC and LP, it must be receiving external 12v power OK, though it is possible the voltage is low. In AC and LP mode, the fridge needs only a tiny amount of12v, but the DC mode electric heater sucks a lot (about 18 amps continuous). A weak battery will fall below the minimum voltage threshold under that much load. But if plugged toshore power, the Rv's own converter/charger should be supplying plenty of 12v power. Have you tried the 12v DC mode with shore power or with the coach engine running to supplement the battery?
The other possibility is that the 12v heater has failed or its fuse has blown. There is a 20A fuse on the circuit board for it. I would probably check that fuse and the heater itself as my first step.
flashcracker
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Posts
- 6
Thanks,
This will give me a place to start and where to look. I had tried it with vehicle running but now its time to check voltage and find where it is lacking.
Stan
This will give me a place to start and where to look. I had tried it with vehicle running but now its time to check voltage and find where it is lacking.
Stan
flashcracker
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Posts
- 6
Well after doing some checking I notice a rocker switch above the freezer that the owners manual doesn't say anything about but when this switch is in one position the 12 vote part of the system seems to work fine and no code. Does anyone know what this unmarked switch above the freezer was installed for? It is a switch just like lance uses but there is no documentation for this 2014 lance 850 or how it should be used on this Norcold 3150?
Thanks
Stan
Thanks
Stan
flashcracker
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Posts
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After searching more, I found on the lance forum> http://lanceowners.hoop.la/topic/refrigerator-switching-from-lp-to-dc apparently the switch is installed to keep the system from running on 12 volts when not wanted. TJeeper wrote My 850 camper (2015 model) has a switch on the panel above the fridge. This switch controls the DC mode on the fridge, so it cannot accidentally or automatically go to DC mode. I can also set the mode on the fridge control panel. This is a good setup. Don't all the newer (2015 +/-) campers have this switch? At this point I am satisfied and will mark the switch refrigerator 12 master and on and off positions.
Thanks
Stan
Thanks
Stan
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
That switch would be something that Lance added and not part of the fridge itself.
I can see its value, given that 12v mode on the fridge is a huge power draw from the battery and not something you want to use except for specific situations and only for a limited time. A cut-off switch avoids mistakes that would quickly kill the camper battery.
I can see its value, given that 12v mode on the fridge is a huge power draw from the battery and not something you want to use except for specific situations and only for a limited time. A cut-off switch avoids mistakes that would quickly kill the camper battery.
