New guy

Hello everyone. My name is Dale. My wife and I are thinking about becoming full time RVers. We have a plan on selling the house this time next year. I have the truck already 2016 Ram 2500 6.7L diesel crew cab short box (6.4) 4x4 3.42 rear end. We have been looking already and the wife has decided on the Big Horn 30 plus feet. We have tons of questions, hopefully some of you folks here will be able to answer them and I also plan to poke around this forum and learn as much as I can. My main question is the on the 5th wheel hitch, I know I will need on that slides so when I make a shape turn it doesn't hit cab. But which one? I have a basic idea on how it works the part I am confused on is do you have to unlock it before a turn or just turn and it slides? Thanks everyone we hope to learn a bunch of stuff here and I can't wait until next year.

Welcome to the forum.
There are thousands of friendly people here and me and two other old grouches.


There are both automatic slides that slide as you turn and slides you have to unlock and then slide the trailer. And, there are fifth wheel trailers with rounded under-cut noses that do not require a slide with a short bed.
Take your pick.

Instead of a slider, consider using a swiveling pin box such as the Reese Sidewinder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I6w04tAnm8
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-sidewinder.aspx

Here is a previous topic on sliding hitches that may help:
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=51867.0

Consider also that a new Bighorn has a scalloped front end that may obviate the need for a slider on a short bed truck. Certainly driving forward should not be an issue, but an extreme backing turn might get too tight.  A measurement of the trailer front end vs the truck hitch position might show you don't need either a slider or the pivoting turret pin box.

Be careful that your 2500 RAM can handle the weight of the FW.  In some cases it would not.

First, Welcome to the Forum!

You do not have a "short box".  They are typically 5 ? foot.  You have what is now called a "regular box".  Long box is 8 ft.

For most newer FW, the front is sculpted or tapered, allowing sufficient cab clearance with regular box, even when in tight turns.  Many find the slider unnecessary.

If you want the slider hitch, they come in several types.  The Pullrite is fully automatic.  When you turn, it slides the hitch back.  When you are straight, it slides back forward.

Other slider hitches are "normal" hitches, which will slide back manually.  When driving forward, you are in little danger of hitting the cab with the FW.  You simply do not turn that sharp.  When backing into a camping space, unlock the slide, pull forward, moving the hitch backward, lock in place and back on in.

The Sidewinder function is somewhat like the Pullrite, but attaches to the FW king pin.

As RVRAC mentioned, please check the CCC of your truck on the driver door B pillar.  It is on a yellow label.  That CCC must exceed FW pin wt plus hitch wt plus weight of all passengers and cargo in the truck.

RVRAC said:

Be careful that your 2500 RAM can handle the weight of the FW.  In some cases it would not.

Click to expand...

I don't understand what you are saying about 2500 Ram can handle the weight??? The only thing somewhat bad it the rear end gearing 3:42, other then that it should pull anything.

Actually, since you asked I looked at the RAM web page.  I am now more convinced than before I made my initial statement that your truck would not be able to handle the FW you are thinking.  According to RAM.com, your truck has a payload of only a little over 2,300#.  That is not enough for pin weigh, hitch weight, stuff you will carry plus family members.  Sorry!

http://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2016_ram_2500_towing_charts.pdf

The suspension, tires, wheels, rear axle and brakes MUST  be able to handle the WEIGHT carried by the truck.  Any modern truck has the power to pull almost anything, but the other components limit how much weight it can handle which is carried by the truck.  The issue is NOT what it can pull.  It is what it can control and stop safely.  Overloaded trucks usually have overloaded tires, which are very prone to blowouts.  Other problems are premature tranny failure due to overheating, suspension damage, loss of control, etc.  I am not saying it can't be done.  People do it every day.  I'm saying it is very unwise to intentionally overload the truck for the reasons listed above.

On the driver door B pillar is a yellow label which specifies the max weight of passengers and cargo YOUR truck is designed to carry.  This is simply the truck GVWR minus the weight of the truck, including all factory installed options, as it left the factory.  This is the actual payload, or CCC for this specific vehicle.

Add together the weight of all passengers, pets, cargo, tools and firewood carried in the truck.  Add 200# for a FW hitch.  Add 20% of the FW  GVWR as a good estimate of Pin wt.  This total MUST be equal or less than CCC.

Ignore any published Payload you may find.  The footnotes tell you this number must be reduced by the weight of all installed options and accessories.  The published Payload for my F350 is 3990#.  It is a Lariat, and my yellow label says 3453#.  Over 500# of options.


I hope the explanation helps.

Here is a great video explaining how to match your truck to the RV put out by the RVSEF (RV Safety and Education Foundation).  I wish I watched this prior to buying my first RV it would saved me a bunch of money.


http://rvsafety.com/rv-education/matching-trucks-to-trailers