I have a 95 f 350 4x4 with a 5 speed manual and 410 gears I have found that with the 7.3 you have to drop a gear to get some rpms up for it to pull the load otherwise your lugging it i'am just and old truck driver so what do I know ps if you want to get rid that truck let me know
towing with f250 7.3 - wrong truck?
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philobeddoe
Member
For just a little money, you could really wake your truck up. First, open it up and let it breath. A 4" exhaust to start. If your not in an emission legal state, cut the converter off. The 7.3's seem to respond well to a cold air intake. A programmer would definitely help. Do some web research on which would best suit your 7.3 and ask some questions about the specifics of each tune within the programmer. Wit a little HP bump and changing the torque curve, your 7.3 should walk off and leave a gas burner.
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
2001 is cat free from the factory. Woo Hoo!
My notifications don't seem to be working but figured I'd check in for grins - Wow, thanks for all the responses!
I was downshifting as needed - this isn't my first rodeo
. The truck is totally stock and judging the condition of the air filter, it hasn't been taken care of as well as I would have myself (recently bought is from a small dealer).
I am a member of the 7.3 forum and with their help will be looking into a chip, new fuel filter,new intake, etc to get this beast up to snuff. There's also plenty of good advice right here.
My first check will be to test the intake for leaks this weekend. I don't see a lot of soot on the firewall but there could be boost leaks somewhere else. I know that the difference between 20 and 25 lbs is significant.
I also should mention that I have cooked a diesel by adding too much fuel on a long grade. I was planning on installing an EGT sensor and gauge but put if off - an expensive mistake. That mishap may have put sub-conscience governor on my right foot ;D. Its good to know the EGTs are no worry on a stocker. When I do chip it, an EGT sensor will be part of the mod for sure.
It's great to know that this truck will haul what I want - just needs some fixin. Again,thanks so much for all the great responses!
I was downshifting as needed - this isn't my first rodeo
. The truck is totally stock and judging the condition of the air filter, it hasn't been taken care of as well as I would have myself (recently bought is from a small dealer).I am a member of the 7.3 forum and with their help will be looking into a chip, new fuel filter,new intake, etc to get this beast up to snuff. There's also plenty of good advice right here.
My first check will be to test the intake for leaks this weekend. I don't see a lot of soot on the firewall but there could be boost leaks somewhere else. I know that the difference between 20 and 25 lbs is significant.
I also should mention that I have cooked a diesel by adding too much fuel on a long grade. I was planning on installing an EGT sensor and gauge but put if off - an expensive mistake. That mishap may have put sub-conscience governor on my right foot ;D. Its good to know the EGTs are no worry on a stocker. When I do chip it, an EGT sensor will be part of the mod for sure.
It's great to know that this truck will haul what I want - just needs some fixin. Again,thanks so much for all the great responses!
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I don't think you can "cook" a modern electronically controlled diesel - it always maintains the proper air/fuel ratio. Well, it will unless you modify the fuel or control system. And you certainly don't need to modify anything to get that 2000 7.3L to haul that little trailer. Completely stock it should haul 10,000+ plus with elan. And without a trailer in tow, it should outperform most stock cars of that vintage.
From what I read, 17- 20 psi is probably about right for a stock 2000 turbo, but the observed number is going to vary a lot with load, altitude, throttle position, etc. At 8000 ft and a wide open throttle under load, I think you should be seeing something near its max, though.
Since you have a lot of control with that 6-speed manual, what rpm were you running at? Peak hp on that 2000 is around 2500 rpms, but peak torque is a bit lower. I would guess your optimum performance under load would be in the 2300-2600 rpm range.
Note that the specs on the 99-03 models with the turbo are dramatically better than pre-99's, so don't let internet talk about previous 7.3L's confuse you. See the spec comparison at
http://www.powerstrokehub.com/7.3-power-stroke.html
From what I read, 17- 20 psi is probably about right for a stock 2000 turbo, but the observed number is going to vary a lot with load, altitude, throttle position, etc. At 8000 ft and a wide open throttle under load, I think you should be seeing something near its max, though.
Since you have a lot of control with that 6-speed manual, what rpm were you running at? Peak hp on that 2000 is around 2500 rpms, but peak torque is a bit lower. I would guess your optimum performance under load would be in the 2300-2600 rpm range.
Note that the specs on the 99-03 models with the turbo are dramatically better than pre-99's, so don't let internet talk about previous 7.3L's confuse you. See the spec comparison at
http://www.powerstrokehub.com/7.3-power-stroke.html
I can tell you my bone stock 96 with an automatic will, and has, pull a trailer that heavy with no problem at all. Before you do any modifications definitely diagnose the problems. The last thing you want to do is cover up problems on a stock engine with chips and such. You may be seeing 20 lbs. of boost but the wastegate is wanting 23 and you could possibly be losing a LOT of boost without realizing just how much just through a leaking boot. I had one that took me forever to find. Even though the clamps were tight I was losing boost between the boot and the metal pipe. There was an internal crack in the rubber boot. You could also have the computer going into defuel due to any number of reasons. Bad MAP sensor, lose or leaking vacuum/boost line to the MAP sensor. Bad oil temp sensor. Even a bad ground on the PCM could give you power problems. Another thing Fords were famous for was HPOP problems. Also check the fuel filters. Go through ALL of this before even thinking about adding hop up goodies to it or you could very well fry another one.
Built into the Ford PCM is a cylinder balance test, anyone with a scanner should be able to access it. The oil temp has to be up to operating temperature to run the test but it will tell you if you have any weak cylinders which would usually be an indication of a bad injector.
Built into the Ford PCM is a cylinder balance test, anyone with a scanner should be able to access it. The oil temp has to be up to operating temperature to run the test but it will tell you if you have any weak cylinders which would usually be an indication of a bad injector.
Gary,
Thanks for the link to the engine specs - interesting reading.
I will certainly go over the engine before I start adding mods. I want something reliable - not necessarily fast. Tomorrow I will check for leaks in the intake/turbo using a DIY rig, 20 psi and a soapy water in a spray bottle. I also have a code reader and Forscan software, As soon as I learn how to use it, I'll check the eight injectors.
Thanks for the link to the engine specs - interesting reading.
I will certainly go over the engine before I start adding mods. I want something reliable - not necessarily fast. Tomorrow I will check for leaks in the intake/turbo using a DIY rig, 20 psi and a soapy water in a spray bottle. I also have a code reader and Forscan software, As soon as I learn how to use it, I'll check the eight injectors.
Yeah, something isn't right. I have your exact truck in automatic (2000 7.3 PSD 4x4, 235k miles) and recently towed our 35ft 5ver (11k loaded) through the blue ridge mountains (GA/TN/NC) with no issues or hesitation. Stayed in the 45-55mph range with EGTs at 1000-1150 and seeing 1200 for 10-15 seconds climbing the real steep grades. Your truck should have no issues pulling your rig.
lone_star_dsl
Well-known member
Rickf1985 said:
1200 is pretty easy bone stock. International (and Ford) say that you can run the 7.3 at 1,250 degrees indefinitely. The pistons won's start to melt until 1,400 degrees anyway.
Interesting, I don't have a gauge on my Ford, I do have one on my 98.5 24 valve Cummins and it has a programmer and stock I can't come close to 1200. With the programmer set to timing and fuel at 60 hp, I can hit it pretty easily on a hard pull but at that setting I am pulling a LOT harder than the Ford would pull. So in saying that at stock settings both trucks pull about the same but apparently the Ford runs higher EGT's. Again, I don't have a gauge in my Ford.
Montanaman42
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2016
- Posts
- 26
A lot of great knowledge of Fords on this thread. I have a 1988 F250 7.3L 460 with 4.10 gearing and just purchased a new to me 30ft Fleetwood Terry 5th wheel. any and all thoughts on towing capability and mini upgrades would be greatly appreciated. I don't have much money to put into it but this is going to be my full timer.
Frizlefrak
Well-known member
Montanaman42 said:
I had the 1989 version of that truck. It was a low mile Lariat, very nice truck. 460 EFI, auto, 4.10 gears.
What is the gross weight of your trailer? The 460 gasser has decent torque, but it's only about 240 HP. It's going to struggle pulling heavy loads up steep grades. With my 8000 lbs 30' travel trailer, it got the job done....but there was one 10% grade at 9200' elevation.....low gear, foot to the floor, 13 MPH for a mile. My new Cummins doesn't even break a sweat on the same hill. Again, it got the job done, and if you're towing on flat land at low elevations, you should be fine power wise. Mountains.....well, you're eventually going to want more truck.
EGT differences could be the placement of thermo probe. Before or after turbo. Usually 250- 300 degrees difference. In the old days of early turbo over the road diesels, the probe was placed in front of the turbo for more accurate reading. 1200 was the limit and you started backing out of it. Then, because a few probes came loose or burned off and destroyed turbo (late sixties early seventies) the probes were moved behind the turbo where they remain today (over the road diesels) although better manufacturing materials allow them to be ran in front of turbo with no fear. I have a 550 hp cat that I tapped a probe in front of turbo 575000 mi. ago. No problems.
Montanaman42
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2016
- Posts
- 26
Frizlefrak sorry had the number wrong it is a 7.5L gasser not the 7.3 diesel. Oop, as for mountains I do live in Montana and got to get to different rivers wherever I might be guiding and as a fly fishing guide I don't have a lot of options when it comes to getting a new truck. Just hope she can take the load. The trailers weight is the same as your old 30' at 8000.
JoeFatz
Well-known member
I bought a tuner and i can do a burnout if I wanted to, they have them so choked from the factory, there are tons of plug and play tuners out there, the owner of local shop that specializes in doing high performance Mustangs that has a nationwide reputation for excellent dyno tuning drives a 7.3, I stopped in and asked him what he had done to it and the cost, around $500 later he had my slug performing like a race car (when needed, you can swap back and forth if you want), with a 10k lb load, it will beat my unloaded 5.4 f150 out of the hole, I consider it money well spent, also increased the fuel mileage 2-4 mpg, being he has done so many he could probably load up the programmer and mail it to you with the correct map installed.
www.pro-dyno.net
www.pro-dyno.net
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
But be aware that if you live in a state that does smog checks (like California for instance) installing a chip or tuner is not exactly legal. Revert to stock tuning about 100 miles before the smog check. Also, if you take it to a dealership for service you need to revert to the stock tuning beforehand, and they may reflash the stock tuning to something that your performance tuner does not recognize anymore.
Long term support from the performance tuner is important or you're left with an expensive paperweight.
It's almost mandatory to have an EGT gauge for any kind of performance/towing tune. Pistons cost a lot to replace.
Long term support from the performance tuner is important or you're left with an expensive paperweight.
It's almost mandatory to have an EGT gauge for any kind of performance/towing tune. Pistons cost a lot to replace.
Thanks for all the feedback.
I would rather not install a chip or do much beyond stock. Not to say I might change my tune at some point (pun intended). The #1 goal in buying the truck was reliability and whatever my tow choice ends up being, it will be something I can tow without mods. I was just a bit surprised that I even felt an 18 footer behind me but in fairness, it was a 6% grade.
My guess is that the turbo is a bit tired and may need a new wheel. I stuck a boost gauge on it and find that 20 psi is tough to achieve. As I mentioned earlier, there are no boost leaks that I can find (did a 20 psi pressure test). When I get time and before I finally get a trailer, I'll be looking into it's condition.
Other than that, the truck runs like a top.
Again, thanks for all the info.
I would rather not install a chip or do much beyond stock. Not to say I might change my tune at some point (pun intended). The #1 goal in buying the truck was reliability and whatever my tow choice ends up being, it will be something I can tow without mods. I was just a bit surprised that I even felt an 18 footer behind me but in fairness, it was a 6% grade.
My guess is that the turbo is a bit tired and may need a new wheel. I stuck a boost gauge on it and find that 20 psi is tough to achieve. As I mentioned earlier, there are no boost leaks that I can find (did a 20 psi pressure test). When I get time and before I finally get a trailer, I'll be looking into it's condition.
Other than that, the truck runs like a top.
Again, thanks for all the info.
