Towing Dodge Caravan 4 down?

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beltone

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Posts
21
Location
Louisiana
We are looking to tow a 2014 dodge caravan with 4 wheels down.  Can anyone give me some direction on what we need to make this happen?    Talking to the dealer was not much help so any help / direction would be greatly appreciated.
 
From Remco towing website:

2008-2016 Dodge Caravan
Transmission: 62TE
Notes: FWD
Recommended Lube Pump Kit: LP-BK01-022

Then you will need a base plate, tow bar, braking system, and taillight wiring.
 
srs713 said:
From Remco towing website:

2008-2016 Dodge Caravan
Transmission: 62TE
Notes: FWD
Recommended Lube Pump Kit: LP-BK01-022

Then you will need a base plate, tow bar, braking system, and taillight wiring.

Thank you Stephen. 
 
You don't say what you are towing the car with.  Check the weights to make sure it is not too heavy. Also, ready your owners manual on having the vehicle towed - usually they will tell you if  the front wheels have to be off the ground.  If yes, the Remco is your only option.
 
Bill N said:
You don't say what you are towing the car with.  Check the weights to make sure it is not too heavy. Also, ready your owners manual on having the vehicle towed - usually they will tell you if  the front wheels have to be off the ground.  If yes, the Remco is your only option.

We will be towing with a 2016 Newmar Ventanna 4311.  Plenty of power.

I would like to go 4 down primarily because I don't want to have to deal with the dolly and I think the extra 6' on a 43' coach will be troublesome.  Both wife and I have physical limitations so disconnecting the dolly and moving it will become an issue if it is not already.

 
beltone said:
We will be towing with a 2016 Newmar Ventanna 4311.  Plenty of power.

I would like to go 4 down primarily because I don't want to have to deal with the dolly and I think the extra 6' on a 43' coach will be troublesome.  Both wife and I have physical limitations so disconnecting the dolly and moving it will become an issue if it is not already.
Same reasoning as mine.  Hope you can make the Caravan work. We have had 3 and are currently on our 2nd Town and Country but we don't tow it.
 
I don't want to have to deal with the dolly and I think the extra 6' on a 43' coach will be troublesome.

Having recently switched to a dolly so we can bring our little Buick sedan along instead of the former big SUV, I can well agree about the convenience of 4-down vs dolly. I don't think there is an appreciable difference in length, though. Maybe a couple more feet for the dolly tongue vs tow bar length.
 
I wasn't trying to talk you out of the lube pump method - just noting that there is an alternative. Neither method is cheap, but the lube pump is a $1500 (plus installation) additional bump on top of the already expensive 4-down gear. That puts the total towing package into the $4000+ range. Probably over $5000 if you don't do any of it yourself.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
I wasn't trying to talk you out of the lube pump method - just noting that there is an alternative. Neither method is cheap, but the lube pump is a $1500 (plus installation) additional bump on top of the already expensive 4-down gear. That puts the total towing package into the $4000+ range. Probably over $5000 if you don't do any of it yourself.

Painful for sure.  What kind of dolly do you use Gary?  Looks like we can do the dolly for around 3k?  Do you have / use additional remote breaks on the car with your dolly or is it a built in break on the dolly like a surge break?
 
We have towed our 2014 Town and Country on a dolly for 2 years. No problems. However, I am switching to flat towing my Colorado. I just can't get down on the ground to hook up safety chains anymore. Make sure you get a dolly that is wide enough to carry your van. 
 
$3000?? My Master Tow w/electric brakes, was under $1500. I also added a set of magnetic lights to supplement the dolly lights
 
What kind of dolly do you use Gary?  Looks like we can do the dolly for around 3k?  Do you have / use additional remote breaks on the car with your dolly or is it a built in break on the dolly like a surge break?

I bought a clean used Master Tow, with electric brakes and a spare tire, for $1000. A new one can be had under $2000, and used ones are readily available in most areas.  The brakes are on the dolly, not the car. Electric brakes need a brake controller on the motorhome, but surge brakes do not.

http://www.mastertow.com/tow_dollies.html

Roadmaster & Stehl & Kar Kaddy are some other top brand dollies.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
I bought a clean used Master Tow, with electric brakes and a spare tire, for $1000. A new one can be had under $2000, and used ones are readily available in most areas.  The brakes are on the dolly, not the car. Electric brakes need a brake controller on the motorhome, but surge brakes do not.

http://www.mastertow.com/tow_dollies.html

Roadmaster & Stehl & Kar Kaddy are some other top brand dollies.

Thank You sir. 
 
Check Craig's List in your area. I just did a quick search in NH and came up with many.

https://nh.craigslist.org/search/sso?query=tow+dolly
 
my wifes uncle has 4 down towed a old 94 Caravan for 20 some years. he leaves it running in neutral!  easy.    best is to find a 4 wheel drive vehicle with manual transfer case.. shift to neutral and disconnect battery..key on  and away you go.magnetic lights from RV  and away u go.
 
Twist to the dolly track.  Our Carvan has a lowered floor with a wheel chair ramp and the manual specially states that it should be towed on a trailer and not a traditional tow truck.  My guess is the lowered floor has weekend the frame some and the added stress of not being 4 down could cause issues. 

I like the idea of idle in neutral to keep the fluid flowing.  That is a 2k savings and I can buy a lot of gas for that.  May get a towbar and give that a shot for while.
 
beltone said:
I like the idea of idle in neutral to keep the fluid flowing.  That is a 2k savings and I can buy a lot of gas for that.  May get a towbar and give that a shot for while.

Best to figure out some way to make sure the engine keeps running in that case with a dash monitor of some sort. Perhaps an alarm that's held open by a signal from the engine's oil pressure switch.
 
NY_Dutch said:
Best to figure out some way to make sure the engine keeps running in that case with a dash monitor of some sort. Perhaps an alarm that's held open by a signal from the engine's oil pressure switch.

Great idea, thanks much!
 
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