Will this work on my Res. fridge?

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Rene T said:
Let me start over. I'm purchasing a inverter to run only the new 10.7 cu/ft  fridge while traveling. Between the inverter and the fridge circuit, will be a automatic transfer switch which will automatically switch over to the inverter power when shore power is disconnected.  The clock will be connected to the leads going into the compressor and will only run when the compressor is told to start. The single battery in my 5vr will be recharged by my truck alternator when the truck is running. I am looking at a 100 watt inverter.

Hope this helps to clarify what I'm attempting to do. I didn't think it was going to be such a big problem.
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I just hope that you do mean a 1000 watt inverter !
 
I agree with Tom and others that a Kil-O-Watt meter is the easiest solution to your problem. You can also plug it in before you install the inverter to verify your calculations. I purchased on at Harbor Freight on sale for less than $25 and have found others uses for it on the RV.

Many slightly larger inverters have a built in transfer switch that will handle switching power automatically. This really simplifies location and wiring for the inverter.
 
Someone ask "Why do you not like wire nuts?"  I will answer for I'm the one who does not like them the most I suspect

IF you are connecting stranded to stranded, they work well,,  Solid to solid they work well

Stranded to solid, I've had two of them fail already and this Rv is only 16 years old. one failed twice

The current connection on the ones that failed is solder and heat shrink tubing with electrical tape over that.. No problems since

They seem to not work well on stranded to solid. Otherwise they are OK.  I think I knwo why they fail on the Stranded to solid, but that is theory and not yet proven so I hesitate to post.
 
I used to fight stranded to solid connections. I found that I needed to strip a little bit more of the stranded than I usually do, and leave just a small bit of stranded sticking out past the solid. Once I started doing that about 30 years ago, I haven't had any connection problems. Something else I do is when tightening the wire nuts on solid to solid and stranded to solid,, I twist the wires together outside of the wire nut. Stranded to stranded just untwists itself. I will usually wrap the connection with 3M 33 or 88. I wrap the connection in the direction that the tape will come off in the "tighten the wirenut" direction. It's aggravating to remove tape and have it twist off the wirenut at the same time on a live circuit. Not that I ever worked on live circuits before. ;)
 
  On mobile equipment especially or when it is important that the connection be maintained I use what is called a Buchanan connector. It is a crimp on connector that is styled like a wire nut. Here is a link and they can be bought in smaller quantities at home improvement stores but don't go in and ask for them because no one seems to know what they are. I also use a crimp tool that has something similar to a tooth sticking out into the crimp instead of the common ones that are just a hole. They are made in insulated and uninsulated with the uninsulated used for multiple ground wires. When I have too many to fit, I use the non insulated ones with heat shrink and tape.https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-2007-Splice-Connector-Pack/dp/B007EWYVZM/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JDG3JP5VMVHHWDYF8CDT
 
Stranded to solid is a problem. However it can be done it just takes a bit more effort. But the best thing about wire nuts is the fact they are reusable. You can remove a wire nut and replace it without any problem. Crimp on connectors must be cut off the wire leaving the wires a bit shorter. I have run into a situation many times where cutting off the connectors left me with not enough wire left to be able to put a connector back on. Crimp ons also require a tool and wire nuts are installed with your hands. In my 20 years of wiring houses I installed about a million wire nuts and never once was called back because of a poor connection. I would probably still be there installing if I had been using crimp ons. The time difference is amazing and you use hundreds per house.
 
In a vehicle, though, wire nuts are subject to road vibration and more vulnerable to coming loose because of that. Still, a wrap of electrical tape around the nut splice (which is always recommended anyway) cures that risk quite well.  Sloppy installation technique will lead to problems whether using wire nuts or crimps, so that really isn't a functional difference.

I like crimp connectors where there is a really low probability of later removal, but may use wire nuts elsewhere. Light fixtures, for example.
 
SeilerBird said:
In my 20 years of wiring houses I installed about a million wire nuts and never once was called back because of a poor connection.
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I never did the house mouse thing. I was an electrician in the Navy on subs, then went straight to industrial settings. many industrial conditions are a lot less ideal than a house or other building. Had to deal with moisture/water, chemicals, dust, vibration, etc. One place I worked at at, everything there was covered in carbon dust. Installing 4 ga. trunk lines for lighting was a great joy, especially when doing terminations with split bolts. Any thing less than 100% clean including hands and tools, lead to an instant short to ground. The circuits had to be checked for continuity to ground after every termination or it would drive you nuts trying to find out which termination(s) was at fault.
 
  I have had bad luck with crimp-ons unless I use this type of tool. Airboats have an unbelievable amount of vibration. Even our Jeep will shake normal round hole crimps out.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1472080325&sr=1-1&keywords=klein+crimpers
 
catblaster said:
  I have had bad luck with crimp-ons unless I use this type of tool. Airboats have an unbelievable amount of vibration. Even our Jeep will shake normal round hole crimps out.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1472080325&sr=1-1&keywords=klein+crimpers
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$15.00 at Home Depot.
 
My preference is ratchet crimpers. The Sta-Kon  crimper catblaster posted is my #2 go-to. The crimpers that are built in on some wire strippers are right next to worthless.
 
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