Walmart Battery Disconnect Switch.
- Thread starter pojo
- Start date
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schoolsout2
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2010
- Posts
- 612
I use one, it works fine. Mine is the knife type.
Rene T
Site Team
pojo said:
Is this the one you're talking about?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/16006670?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009622215&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838800592&wl4=pla-78652364552&wl5=9002452&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16006670&wl13=&veh=sem
legrandnormand
Well-known member
pojo said:
There are great reviews on it here, at the bottom of the coming page: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20308-Battery-Doctor-Compact/dp/B000CQFWNM/ref=pd_lpo_263_lp_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BTE0C7DXG92BQMZGQ2VF
blw2
Well-known member
I have a similar one.... same design, different brand... mine are made in usa though, so may be different quality. On my house battery and on my chassis battery. One of my 1st modifications almost 2-1/2 years ago
They have worked well until just two weeks ago. I went to start the chassis engine and it acted like a nearly dead battery. Dash lights etc came on ok, but not anything to engage the starter. I found that by opening and then re closing the disconnect that things started up ok.
Same thing happened this past weekend, so I sprayed some electric contact cleaner on it, followed by some electric contact spray I have, forget the name but I think it's by CRC (it's a bit oily, like a water displacement corrosion inhibitor) supposed to improve connections....
I figure it might be time to pull the things apart and clean them up.
They have worked well until just two weeks ago. I went to start the chassis engine and it acted like a nearly dead battery. Dash lights etc came on ok, but not anything to engage the starter. I found that by opening and then re closing the disconnect that things started up ok.
Same thing happened this past weekend, so I sprayed some electric contact cleaner on it, followed by some electric contact spray I have, forget the name but I think it's by CRC (it's a bit oily, like a water displacement corrosion inhibitor) supposed to improve connections....
I figure it might be time to pull the things apart and clean them up.
Rene T
Site Team
pojo said:
I got a kick out of one guy. He's not happy with it. He's going to make a 92 mile round trip, possibly spend $15.00 on gas just to get back less then $5.00.
:
scottydl
Site Team
blw2 said:
I had the same exact experience with using one of these on my 1st motorhome. It got rather annoying (once the bad connection problem started after a few months) to constantly have to crank the adjustment down as TIGHT as possible just to be able to start the rig. I had to take it apart and scrub the internal metal parts at least twice to refurbish the device. Eventually I decided it wasn't worth that hassle, because I could just as easily carry a 1/2" wrench to remove and replace the battery cable terminal as needed.
legrandnormand
Well-known member
blw2 said:
Just buy a new one fore the price it will cost you !
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I am not all that impressed with the quality of much of the stuff at Wal-Mart and that is included.. but that said.. Not much can go wrong with that kind of thing, So unless you are powering a whomping big inverter (like I am) GO FOR IT. Should be ok for non-inverter RV's
For Inverter RV's. just power the inverter via a bypass.
Of course I'm also not thrilled with the batteries that device connects to.
For Inverter RV's. just power the inverter via a bypass.
Of course I'm also not thrilled with the batteries that device connects to.
schoolsout2
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2010
- Posts
- 612
If you are using this on the toad, it did not fit well on mine. That is why I changed to the knife type one.
scottydl
Site Team
It should work fine for awhile. After it is exposed to the elements for awhile, it's likely that some internal corrosion will form and the electrical connection to the battery will weaken. You'll either have to have some HOLD the dial tight each time you turn the key, or crank the dial down hard/tight before every startup, or take the whole thing apart and clean/file/sand the metal parts so they will connect and work again for awhile. Then you can decide whether or not to keep using it.
legrandnormand
Well-known member
I needed a battery cut-off switch to tow my 2009 Smart for two; since the battery is in the passenger's side floor, I had to install this switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BQLZ36?psc=1 just above the center console and I can remove the red knob for security.
Total cost is very expensive compared to the $5. paid for that WM switch; my cost was ? $20. including 2 extra battery cables but it still works perfectly after 2 years !
Total cost is very expensive compared to the $5. paid for that WM switch; my cost was ? $20. including 2 extra battery cables but it still works perfectly after 2 years !
GA_Boy
Well-known member
That happens to me on occasion so my solution is the same temporarily until I get home and then use a wire brush to clean it and apply dielectric.blw2 said:
Marvin
Rene T
Site Team
jubileee said:
jubilee, would you have a link for it?
legrandnormand
Well-known member
Here we GO, http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-battery-cutoff-switch-66789.html the very similar then the one I mentioned on previous post, sorry, but I use this one with a removable handle for safety https://www.amazon.com/Qiorange-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B015GYB7FQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EFSHXHCZVVPMPY4MZ6ZF and you'll have to buy a battery cable or 2 if the original is not long enough.
