Ventilation for propane heater

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jrabbit

jrabbit

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We have demo'd the kitchen and are building new cabinets. I was an architect before I was a mom, so I do have experience with how stuff is put together. I am working on the access panels for the propane heater and hot water heater right now.

Will peg board provide adequate ventilation?

Photo: (the water lines will be secured well above the heater itself)
https://philhyde.smugmug.com/RV/2016-Kitchen/i-gsRNfHW/A


(The new cabinet configuration will include cabinets in front of those appliances, and the finished cabinet doors will have perforated metal facing, to allow for ventilation.  But that is a later step. I need to enclose the appliances now.)
 
You need to draw fresh air from outside and vent to outside. Otherwise you will use up oxygen in the rv, carbon monoxide is deadly.
 
There will be significantly more/better ventilation than there was in the original configuration.

We have created a "box" composed of the entire framed area in this picture, which will also include 5" (vertically) along the outside wall at the right end (about 30" wide). The (residential) fridge will sit on this box, sort of in the middle.  In the picture, you can see a white "solid" area, which is the vent for the old fridge. (Hoping to seal that off.) And there is another vent at the roof, where the plumbing pipes vent out.

Illustrated by this photo:
https://philhyde.smugmug.com/RV/2016-Kitchen/i-bjb6FtN/A
 
Both the furnace and the water heater draw combustion air from outside and vent the exhaust outside as well. It appears that has been provided for when you installed them through the sidewall. The water heater needs no interior ventilation.

The furnace draws its circulation air (return air) from the interior of the RV and blows it out through its outlet (or ducts, if a ducted model). It looks like a furnace designed for ducts, but the only duct I see in the photo is to heat the basement area. Where does the rest of the heat output go? Typically a furnace like that moves a lot of air.

What make & model furnace is it? Atwood or Suburban, etc. There are installation specs for them that will tell you how much air flow must be provided. Typical Atwoods, for example, specify 33 sq inches for the return air flow, but some of the higher btu  models may need more. There is some info on the Atwood Service Manual at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf Suburban manuals are at the same place: http://bryantrv.com/docs.html

 
Gary, thanks for that info. I will look for the make/model today. I never noticed air being drafted from the vent panel in front of it, but I will look for specs. There are clearance specs listed on the metal box, but they are all listed as 0", except one that is 1".

Overall, this box has much more space around it than the original configuration.
 
It's a Suburban furnace (can't find model number on the huge label with all the warnings) and the main output duct is underneath the unit.
 
I would be better if you vent it outside preventing the harmful gases from releasing inside the RV
 
I don't know of any furnaces that do not use outside air for combustion and exhaust to the outside. Any other method pours smelly exhaust fumes, CO2, and quite possible CO as well if combustion isn't 100%. Plus it depletes the O2 in the inside of the RV. All bad things!
 
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