No water pressure from any hot faucet

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You said there is no check valve in the hot water line. Did you look for one where the hot water line connects to the water heater tank. Often, one side of the check valve screws right into the tank and the other side of it connects to the hot water line.

Also, you haven't said but have you opened the bypass valve to see if the pump can force cold water through the bypass to the hot water line and out any of the faucets or shower?
 
Thanks for the info. I will check where the hot water line exits the tank. It appeared to be just a regular connection but is so far up that I didn't look at it close. I have heard the bypass mentioned a few times but to the best of my knowledge I don't have one.
 
I think i am done working in these tight spaces and accomplishing nothing. I think I will see if I can remove the entire assembly from the rv so that I can have access to troubleshoot.
 
It's possible that a previous owner eliminated the two or three valve tank shut-off and by-pass system and installed the existing check valve in the cold water line. Especially if you are not the original owner and you bought the MH in Florida where winterizing may not be deemed necessary. Or, maybe that same owner used compressed air to blow the lines without adding antifreeze and saw no need for manipulating those valves a couple of times a year.

This would probably mean that if a valve was removed from the hot water line, and no check valve was added in its place, the PO may have pulled the hot water line to the tank and connected it up.

Look very closely for a by-pass valve between the hot and cold lines before you cut out any lines to work on them or remove the water tank. If you can find and open a by-pass valve, then turning on the pump and opening your water faucets one at a time will tell if the problem is at the tank or in the lines.
 
John Canfield said:
Very typical for the two water heater check valves to self destruct. Download/print your plumbing diagram and follow the water path with a highlighter marker.
Click to expand...
I'll quote my previous recommendation. Print your plumbing diagram and check it against your plumbing.
 
I have the plumbing diagram and I still don't see any valves that I am missing. I confess to not being a plumber. lol - http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2002/02_p39qd_plumb.pdf
 
Per Winnebago, the Water Heater By_Pass Valve is located on the valve panel in the water center.  It has two labels; By-Pass and Normal.  Leave in Normal position unless add antifreeze.

Have you drained your water heater (to be sure water was in it), rinsed out any crud in the bottom, plugged it again, and refilled it just to be sure water is being added? 

 
Update: I slid the hot water heater out and disconnected the hot water line. I then turned on the cold water line and it flowed out of the hot water outlet. It was a fairly strong flow but I could stop it by placing my finger over the hot water outlet.

I then connected the cold line directly to the hot line, bypassing the hot water heater and got great flow from all of the hot water faucets.

I reconnected the proper way and got nothing again.

I included a pic of the hot water outlet
 

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Have you tried flushing the water heater?  Remove the plug on the bottom and buy and make a pressure sprayer wand and clean it out good.  It might be packed up with precipitated minerals.
 
John, I think you have the answer. Before I saw your post I had connected the supply line to the hot side and back flushed it. I then hooked it up the right way and got water flow through the hot faucet. I started to put it back together but decided to check one more time. It flowed for a bit and then stopped. I have been flushing ever since and have been getting a lot of sediment.
 

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With that much sediment you might want to do a flush with a beach solution to help dissolve the coagulated minerals. Do NOT use an acid.
 
If the water heater is that packed up with sediment, I would just replace it.  I had a similar situation on a boat we bought, the water heater was beyond hope and the best 'fix' was a new one.
 
I stated before that, "I  connected the cold line directly to the hot line, bypassing the hot water heater and got great flow from all of the hot water faucets." Well after all of this and still no flow through the tank, I bypassed the  hot water heater again. This time it flowed for about 10 seconds and then slowed and stopped. My thoughts are that I may have pushed some of the sediment up through the lines and created a blockage.

My other thoughts are that it may be time to take it to a shop. The farther I go, the behinder I get. Thanks everyone for your advice.
 
Remove the screens at the faucets and pull off the shower head. The flush the lines again.

Its worth a shot if it saves you a trip to the shop.
 
I wonder if this could be my problem. The Swan automatic winterization system. A couple of posts from other message boards:

"Winnebago has completely discontinued any electrical winterization. The solenoid valves, only being used once a year, go bad."

"Sorry to bring this post forward but our Water Heater By-pass Valve has crapped the bed and is leaking to beat the band. I began to take it out but decided we would be without water if I did this. I searched and found this thread."
 
BIG JOE said:
And... many RV faucets have a basket type filter/screen under the faucet seal assemblys. Over time, scale & sediment particles from the action of heating water*, can build up on the Hot water side.. and plug, or slow the hot water flow.

You might want to check those too ?

Joe
Click to expand...

Remove and clean all of the faucet aerators & filters, and flush the hot water tank using a tank cleaning jet.

Flush/purge the whole water system for 10+ min., or so, with the hot water tank drain closed and the faucet valves re-installed(duh), without their filters and aerators(*), wide open.

Re-install the faucet filters. (optional on your part**)

Check all the faucets for leaks.

That's Probably What A Shop Would Do. ($$$.00)


* Your call, while your at it, you could remove all of the faucet aerator 1/8" flow restrictors (Shower faucet hose & head too).. for a Much better water flow rate, and pressure.

** Routine Maintenance wize.. it's much easier to clean the aerator screens of scale/grit.. than R&R'n the faucet screen/filters.

 
Fixed . . . well somewhat. Ended up unscrewing the plumbing panel to access the water lines behind it. Lo and behold another check valve. This time it was on the hot water line. I took it apart removed the broken guts and put it back on. The flow is good but barely lukewarm on electric and the gas will not ignite. All is good though, at least I have flow!! I will work my way through the other issues. Thanks again everyone for the help and patience as this rookie repairman worked his way through this.
 
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