Who changes their oil on a DP?

Curious about a few things regarding doing oil changes yourself.
I change the oil and filter on my cars and motorcycles but a BIG diesel engine is different for sure.

Say you have an ISC 8.3 engine or something close.  I assume they hold anywhere between 4-6 gallons of oil.
So What kind of container do you put the used oil in that can hold that much without spilling over especially on the way to recycle it?

Is it easier to change the oil filter on a unit with a side radiator?  Do you need something special (at least bigger) to remove the old filter?

What brand of oil and or filters do you prefer.  And is there a special place to purchase said oil/filters?  Do you wait for a SALE?

Do most of you that change your own oil also change the air filter at the same time?

Is there anything else you routinely do during your oil change session?



Now for those that think changing your own oil is nuts - How much do you pay to have it done?

I've changed the oil in our Cummins ISC (350hp) coach engine multiple times, but on a number of occasions have used either a dealer or a Cummins Coach Care shop. If you do it yourself, it helps to have a Fumoto valve installed in the sump, so you can turn the flow off and back on.

I've changed the oil in the two big CATs (660hp each) on our boat multiple times. I use multiple empty 5-gallon buckets from prior oil changes, and take them to the oil recycling center at our local marina.

I always do my own,, filter from NAPA,,oil from WalMart 6 gallons..I bought a medium size plastic container from WalMart including lid, it holds the 6 gallons of oil at about 3/4 full, then I pour it into the gallon jugs the oil came in..All oil dispensing retailers are required by law to except the old oil. so I drop it off at the NAPA store when convenient...Punch a hole (with an awl) in the bottom of the filter and let it drain, then using a strap wrench, remove and replace the filter...Piece of cake.>>>Dan
    I have a Cummins 8.3 with side rad.  Be sure to lube the rubber gasket before installation

I have changed it once.  I have paid others to change it.  Most anyone can change it with your supervision.  Not much harder than doing a car except for one word of warning. 

Used diesel oil is like black paint and you almost always get it on you.  Use throw away gloves and you will still get it on you.

Definitely install a Fumoto Valve because it will help prevent getting oil on you if you remove the normal drain plug.  You will still get some on you from the filter.

I agree with using a large plastic bucket either with a sealing lid or transferring to the gallon bottles.

I don't have a DP, at least not yet, but do have a couple pieces of diesel earth moving equipment.  I would suggest letting the engine idle until the oil is warm, say you start to get movement on your oil temp gauge.  Cold old diesel oil tends to be almost like molasses. Then shut the engine off.  Wait 15 minutes or so for the oil to settle back in the oil pan.  You can work on the filter while you wait.

I use a drill pump with a purpose built long tube.  I bought both at the marine boat supply shop near me to remove oil from boat motors.  I used this setup on my marine outboard even with the engine in the water.  Didn't spill a drop. The tube fits into the oil dipstick tube and sucks all the old oil out.  Works like a straw in a milkshake or coke cup.  Twist the tube around a bit and push it in deeper if it will go to make sure it doesn't stop on top of the engine oil pickup or some other obstruction (not likely as the dipstick should be aligned with the bottom of the oil pan.  There is an outflow line from the drill pump.  Fill up one container, stop then fill up another until nothing is pumped out. 

Yep, I change mine the same as others. I do it every other oil change. Same 5 gallon bucket, plastic gloves, and a piece of plastic under the rig to catch drips. Also put on a new fuel filter at the same time.  In between my changes I take the rig to a Freightliner dealer for a M-3 service. That is because it is a full inspection service where they pull the wheels, check brakes, hubs, change the air filter (due every 24 months) and the air system air/moisture filter, and dip the coolant for proper SCA levels. 

By doing every other oil change myself, it keeps me in touch with how the engine is doing and saves me some $$$ on maintenance. 

Two quick notes: The air filter is on a different schedule (change when starts to block air or every nn years) and is usually quite expensive relative to auto parts.  Also, check your fuel filter change schedule. These are much more critical for a diesel.

Finally, you didn't ask, but lube is essentially the same as any other vehicle. There will be zerk fittings a all critical, points and they are filled the same way. Rear end is also as usual.

The above are directed at motor home maintenance (I don't do much it myself any longer).

Erjie

I change mine annually.  If you install a shut-off type valve (Fumoto valve) on the pan drain, you can easily use multiple smaller catch pans.  I never got around to doing that, so use a large plastic pan made for mixing concrete, something liket his one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasgad-Black-Large-Concrete-Mixing-Tub-887102C/205451585

Afterwards I use a scoop and a funnel to transfer the used oil to the original gallon-size oil containers for disposal. Messy buy easy enough.

The filter is under the engine on one side or the other, so side or rear radiator makes little difference. It's a big sucker (mine holds about two qts), so you need a large filter wrench. I use a fabric strap wrench on a ratchet with a long extension because my filter is high up and surrounded by other stuff, so a traditional filter wrench doesn't fit in. Here is the type of strap I use:
https://www.amazon.com/ATD-5208-Strap-Type-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000OUZBTQ

I think any decent brand of heavy duty filter is fine. Fleetguard (Cummins), Wix, NAPA (made by Wix), Baldwin, Luber-Finer, Donaldson are the major brands and used by most truck fleets.

When changing the oil, I also grease all the Grease zerts like Ernie mentioned above. There were about a good 12 zerts or more on our coach. A couple are quite hard to get to. Like the ones high up on the steering shaft, and the ones right on the drive shaft. The oil plug I installed was called a Femco plug. It will not release oil until you screw a special hose that comes with it onto it..Forgot to mention. When we changed the oil, we filled up the oil filter before we installed it as a precaution. I used to take our coach in to the local Freightliner dealer for all the expensive oil and grease jobs, until I noticed they were not greasing all the zerts. So I started doing it myself and saved a lot of money as well. Not that hard a job.


Bill

I change mine yearly, as said, very easy with a Fumoto valve. I also change both fuel filters same time. Then grease chassis and do generator the next day. Then done until next year. No different than a car or truck, just more oil and filters to dispose of.

RedandSilver said:

Curious about a few things regarding doing oil changes yourself.
I change the oil and filter on my cars and motorcycles but a BIG diesel engine is different for sure.

Say you have an ISC 8.3 engine or something close.  I assume they hold anywhere between 4-6 gallons of oil.
So What kind of container do you put the used oil in that can hold that much without spilling over especially on the way to recycle it?

Is it easier to change the oil filter on a unit with a side radiator?  Do you need something special (at least bigger) to remove the old filter?

What brand of oil and or filters do you prefer.  And is there a special place to purchase said oil/filters?  Do you wait for a SALE?

Do most of you that change your own oil also change the air filter at the same time?

Is there anything else you routinely do during your oil change session?



Now for those that think changing your own oil is nuts - How much do you pay to have it done?

Click to expand...

One of the first things I would do is go to Cummins Quick Serve and register my engine serial number. This is the same database the dealer uses to look up info on your engine.
https://quickserve.cummins.com/qs3/portal/index.html
A big tub like Gary linked to is a good way to go. Heare is a link to the filter wrench I use. It workes great as there isn't much room to grabe anything but the bottom of the filter.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-universal-oil-filter-wrench-auto-adjustable/p-02820523000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyozABRDtgPTM0taCrKsBEiQATk6xDifACIfqIw24SVgSEfmpwTKauMDXCB6ppPQJo9BHPZ8aAp5Y8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I run Shell Rotella T-6 and they have a $5.00 per gallon rebate right now. I know you will heare you don't need a full synthetic oil. I like it because my oil samples come back from the lab looking great. If you are going to do oil sampling pull and send your samples in early enough you can have the results back before you drain your oil.  If you get a bad report you need to be able to send a second sample to verify or to double check the results.
I run Fleetguard filters. Look on Quick Serve to get the right part number for your engine.
Go here and you can learn lots of tips on doing your own maintenance.
http://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/43_chassissvc.php?pg=all
If you don't have documentation as to when a filter was changed just figure it needs to be changed so you have a good baseline for future maintenance.
One other thing is to pull a sample from the transmission and see how that is doing.
I do all my own maintenance and it is not that bad.
Something else to check is see if you have oil bath front hubs. Make shure the oil level is good.
Bill

I know I posted this last year.

Thanks for the tips.

In another few weeks it will (should be) warm enough to start working on my MH.
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger and order the oil filter and Fuel filter etc. on Amazon.
Might have to go to a Cummins dealer? to get an Air Filter and the hose that goes to the turbo.


A few things I forgot to ask are:

When you buy your oil - do you buy it in quarts (I need 24) or gallons or do you buy a 5 gallon bucket and a few quarts more?
Do you order online - like Amazon or do you always buy it local and haul it home?

Do you also replace the coolant filter every year too?
Any other filters?

Yes I will plan on greasing the fittings and checking tire pressures etc.

One more thing.

I assume that since the engine hasn't been started all Winter that I will need to take it for a half hour run to really heat it up
and remove the condensation.  That's OK to do, right?  I ask because when starting out there will be condensation in the oil
moving around, before it gets evaporated, right?

Thanks for any advice you can pass along.  Hurry up Spring - I mean warmer temps, as it's in the 30's here during the day with more
snow tomorrow.

Not sure if was mentioned above, but we always fill the oil filter before installation. Also there could be 2 fuel filters under there.


Bill

billwild said:

Not sure if was mentioned above, but we always fill the oil filter before installation. Also there could be 2 fuel filters under there.


Bill

Click to expand...

Yes I planned on doing that.

Some people say the oil filter holds 2 quarts and others have said about a gallon.
So I will find out when the time comes.

I don't think my model engine has 2 fuel filters.  However I planned on buying 2 of each filter, So I have a spare just in case or
for next time.  2 at a time is slightly cheaper than 1 at a time, so I figured why not get two and have a spare.

My Cummins has the 8.3 and the last time I did the oil filter it took just over a quart. Mine is a bit newer than yours, but the filter size wouldn't have changed much.

Pretty sure that I have just one fuel filter also, but not 100% sure.  The last oil and filter change I had done on the road I supplied the filters, both oil and fuel, and there was one of each.

SargeW said:

My Cummins has the 8.3 and the last time I did the oil filter it took just over a quart. Mine is a bit newer than yours, but the filter size wouldn't have changed much.

Pretty sure that I have just one fuel filter also, but not 100% sure.  The last oil and filter change I had done on the road I supplied the filters, both oil and fuel, and there was one of each.

Click to expand...

If it's your 2013 that has the 8.3 then I would say it's more that a "bit" newer.  ;D

Oil filter on mine is a Fleetguard LF9009.
I doubt they have changed much as that was the number in my owners manual and they are still being made.


I'm curious as to Where people buy there oil -Online or local  AND if they purchase quarts, gallons, or 5 gallon buckets etc.

AND do they only replace the oil and fuel filters.  No others during a standard oil change? 

Thanks to anyone that can answer - the more the better.   

You don't need to go to a Cummins dealer for any filter. In fact, Cummins itself does not supply the filters or determine the actual filter model to be used except for the main oil filter on the engine.  The chassis builder determines fuel filter(s), air filter, hydraulic filter, etc. when he designs the chassis and installs the engine. The fuel system, air intake, cooling system, etc. are all part of the chassis design. The engine builder (Cummins in this case) sets minimum requirements/specifications for the performance of those systems, but not specific makes and models of filters.

I usually ordered mine from an online filter store. RVchassisparts.com is one source. I've also used Ryderfleetproducts.com and Amazon.com. The filters are brand name commodities, so you can shop by name and take the best price. You can cross-reference the various major brands as well, e.g. Wix, Donaldson, Fleetguard,  etc. Fleetguard is Cummins Filtration's brand name, but they don't actually make filters. Ditto for the NAPA brand filters - they are actually made by Wix.

I usually bought oil at Sam's Club or Tractor Supply Corp, but again shop brand names for price. I mostly used Shell Rotella 15W40 oil, but Mobile Delvac and Chevron were sometimes available at sale prices.

One little trick I learned from my first diesel.  Big oil filters are heavy when they're full of oil.  Couple that with the likelihood that the filter being removed will be coated with used oil and is slipperier than whale snot.  Well, see the problem?

As soon as I'm sure the filter isn't stuck on there I punch a hole in the bottom and let it drain.  Much easier to handle after that.

Putting a full filter back on is rarely a problem.

SargeW said:

Yep, I change mine the same as others. I do it every other oil change. Same 5 gallon bucket, plastic gloves, and a piece of plastic under the rig to catch drips. Also put on a new fuel filter at the same time.  In between my changes I take the rig to a Freightliner dealer for a M-3 service. That is because it is a full inspection service where they pull the wheels, check brakes, hubs, change the air filter (due every 24 months) and the air system air/moisture filter, and dip the coolant for proper SCA levels. 

By doing every other oil change myself, it keeps me in touch with how the engine is doing and saves me some $$$ on maintenance.

Click to expand...

What does an M-3 service cost at your freightliner dealer?

I do all my own work always have. I use to have an old Cummings that took 20 gallons plus 2 gallons for the filters. Wix and Napa make good quality filters that fit about anything. Make sure the engine is hot before you drain it