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To run down the road with no power to fridge, try a gallon jug of frozen water in the freezer and refrigerator sections. That will probably be enough to hold you over if the fridge and contents were already cold/frozen to start with. Just don't open the doors any more than necessary until you get plugged back in.
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Towing and towables / Re: One time trip question
« Last post by kdbgoat on Today at 06:13:26 AM »
The last trailer I had grossed at 9600#+. Loaded heavy for extended camping, was at 9200# and sometimes more. I pulled it with a 2014 F-250 gasser. That caused a bit of headache, because I wanted to use my Reese Dual Cam hitch, but could barely load the spring bars. To just pull the trailer, I didn't need a WDH. I just wanted one for sway control in case of blown around by tractor trailers, and heavy cross winds. I think you will be fine without a WDH.
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Tech Talk / Re: Furnace does not light
« Last post by timjet on Today at 06:09:18 AM »
Problem found and fixed. The control board was faulty. I swapped the control board with the other furnace and it worked. I ordered a new control board from Amazon installed it yesterday and it works. Incidentally my furnace is a 2 stage type and has 2 control boards, one for the 2 stage blower and the other that controls everything else on the furnace. The smaller 2 stage control board is fine. I think the only thing wrong with the faulty board was the ignitor coil. It can't be replaced.

DINOSAUR electronics does not make a control board for furnaces with a 2 stage blower.
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Trailers & Fifthwheels / Re: Well, we did it (Finally found a TT)
« Last post by kdbgoat on Today at 06:07:02 AM »
Your choice on the spare, but be aware, if you set up a tool kit to be able to change your tire(s) along the roadside, the nuts that hold the spare onto the bracket may not be the same size as your lug nuts.
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Motorhomes / Re: Transfer Pump Problem
« Last post by kdbgoat on Today at 06:03:46 AM »
I'm not sure what engine you have, but on Cummins, I've read a lot about carrying a $130 spare transfer pump, and wiring a pressure switch in the line from the transfer pump to the main pump that goes to a light in the drivers area. No light, no pressure, stop the engine. From what I understand, if the transfer pump fails, it can cause a failure on the high pressure pump which is $$$ to replace.
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Another thing to consider is overall weight. To save some weight where you don't need a lot of strength, maybe consider an open frame construction with a paneling cover. Even when using an open frame, a decent amount of strength can be built in.
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4-wheeling / Re: Winter 4x4 Jamboree
« Last post by Corky on Today at 05:53:17 AM »
Glad no one was hurt, and some lessons are very expensive to learn.
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Fulltiming / Re: Your votes please for the best fulltimer insurance
« Last post by kdbgoat on Today at 05:52:35 AM »
^X2^ I don't have full timers ins with them, but the DW has been with them since she was 16, and I have been with them quite a while. About a year or so ago, I comparison shopped, and was adamant about providing the same level of coverage so I could compare apples to apples. State Farm was the lowest price, beating out all the others including USAA.
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Newcomers' Corner / Re: Earliest Class C diesel with good MPG?
« Last post by SeilerBird on Today at 05:27:59 AM »
I'd like to get a powerful replacement for under $20,000 that still gets good gas mileage.
ROTFLMAO - so does every other newby that comes in here. First off driving 75 in an RV is very dangerous in my book. But a powerful RV will not get good gas mileage, in fact no RV gets good gas mileage.
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Motorhomes / Re: Grand Tetons - Jackson Hole RV Park Recommendation
« Last post by SeilerBird on Today at 05:25:19 AM »
We arrived 13 nights before to make sure we got in. It was busy with queues a few days before. Some folks turned away.
But there is always vacancies at the Colter Bay campground. No hookups but plenty of spaces.
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