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Remodeling your RV / Re: another roof replace question(s)
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 12:35:05 PM »
Roof membranes (EPDM, TPO, etc) don't bend around curved corners or bumps in the surface, but other than that should be easy enough if applied with care. Best to remove as many obstacles as possible to make the job simpler, though. A/c units, fridge vent, skylights, etc. As with anything you are gluing down, you have to get it done within the working time limits of the adhesive, so plan ahead and don't stop for a beer with a piece of sheeting halfway on.

Dicor and Alpha are the two leading brands of EPDM membranes used in RVs, but I would not be afraid to use other brands of similar thickness and color (not all EPDM is white).


TPO doen't cost a lot more and is easier to maintain (clean, no streaking, etc). Consider it as an alternative.

You may find a galvanized metal roof under that roll roofing. Of so, it may or may not have a substrate - my '88 trailer just stretched the metal panels over ribs.  EPDM and TPO require a smooth substrate, usually thin luan plywood.

Boondocking / Re: Adding water to fresh tank question
« Last post by Lou Schneider on Today at 12:34:27 PM »
Harbor Freight has a nice little water pump with dual female hose barbs.  All you need is it and a female-female hose adapter to put it in the middle of two garden hoses to suck out of a container and send water into the RV's inlet.

Motorhomes / Re: DEF
« Last post by Lou Schneider on Today at 12:24:22 PM »
I'm still waiting for someone to market ABC brand DEF.    ;D
Boondocking / Re: Adding water to fresh tank question
« Last post by shorts on Today at 12:23:33 PM »
Thanks for the replies. We opened up the inside and determined that the witerization input just put it into a loop like Gary mentioned so it is going to take an external pump. Off to see what we can get.

Thanks again,
General Discussion / Re: Simple Suggestion - Jettison Weight
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 12:19:13 PM »
Sewer hoses weigh hardly anything, so that's not an area where I choose to compromise. But there are other things that seem to accumulate - they were needed one time or for one situation but not used in years.  If it's an item I could get along without until I could get another, and something that is reasonably available everywhere and not real pricey, maybe leave it home.

All this assumes that you actually need to shed weight. If you know you are within your CCC, don't lose any sleep and don't nag your spouse about it either.
General Discussion / Re: Don't believe the FlexSeal ads
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 12:12:23 PM »
There are dozens of brand names for "self-vulcanizing" tapes, aka "hose bandages".   They work well except for one thing: they bond only to themselves and not the hose surface.  They rarely stick tightly to vinyl, plus most vinyl hoses have a textured surface. Water under pressure seeps between tape and hose and you still have a dribble. They usually work adequately on metal or plastic pipe and heavy duty rubber hoses (like a car radiator hose).
Motorhomes / Re: DEF
« Last post by Ghostman on Today at 12:09:53 PM »
Our 2016 Berkshire still has it on the passenger side. I do have Fuel fill on both sides. If I am getting low and find it possible i just go through the fuel island backwards and can fill both tanks.
Boondocking / Re: Adding water to fresh tank question
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 12:04:24 PM »
Generally the "winterize" inlet (if you have one) is only an alternate inlet to the water pump suction side. That in itself doesn't push water into the tank. Since you also have a "fill tank from city inlet" valve, you should be able to open that (tank fill position) and then the pump will suck from the 5 gallon jugs and the open city fill valve lets it backflow to the tank.  However, if that path shares the same water line with the pump inlet, the water just goes round & round!  Plumbinf details vary a lot across Rvs, so you will have to try yours to see.

Another alternative is to use a small 12v pump to suck water from the jug and push it into the city inlet, with the city-to-tank valve open.   It doen't need to be fancy or big pump - I used a boat bilge pump pump from Walmart and a fitting to connect the pump to a standard hose male. Powered it with a pair of wires with alligator clips to the RV battery. You can make that set-up a simple or as elegant as you like.  The pump needs enough of a gpm rating to push the city inlet check valve open, but in my expereince about 500 gpm was sufficient.  More moves the water a bit better, though.
General Discussion / Re: Don't believe the FlexSeal ads
« Last post by yolo on Today at 12:03:20 PM »
I first saw this post and thought. "Well this stuff does work" 

Then I did a little research and found what I had used in the past was "Atomic Tape"  which is a silicone tape that really doesn't have adhesive but just sticks to itself.  I once used it to stop the gushing flow of sea water on a rubber bellows on my dripless shaft seal.  The Atomic Tape stopped the water flow and lasted a couple of weeks until I could have the boat hauled and the bellows replaced.

After reading about FlexSeal tape, I find that is not even close to the silicone tape.
Destinations, RV Parks, Routes / Re: Grand Canyon, best rv parks
« Last post by Kevin Means on Today at 11:50:06 AM »
That RR is, indeed, a nice trip, but it's about 2:15 one way, not 0:45. It's about 65 miles, and they don't do much more than 25-30 mph (28 mph average). And though you can take it up and back the same day (arr. 11:45, dep. 3:30), you can also arrange to take it up one day, stay one or more nights in the canyon (hotel, of course) and return another day. The GCRR is a fun trip. We really enjoyed the parlor car (the Keokuk, I think, back in the '90s), as it was nice luxury, but the other cars are great, too.
My wife said you're right Larry. I remembered wrong. I guess time flys when you're having fun.

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