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For Colorado...

You must have a valid CDL to operate:

Any commercial motor vehicle with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 26,001 pounds or more
Any commercial vehicle that is designed to transport 16 or more passengers including the driver
Any vehicle transporting hazardous material and is required to be placarded in accordance with 49 CFR Part 172, Subpart F

So the CDL should be a non issue for the RV. But is problematic for the bus if it's originally designed to be a transport vehicle.

I did some research. :P
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This topic has been moved to [Motorhomes]. Moved for better exposure.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=111421.0
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As I sit here and think about it, I will be surprised if a 40 foot coach with propane furnace did not have two separate furnaces with two zones on the thermostat.

If you are trying to get heat tonight then take a flashlight and carefully examine the rear half of your coach at about eye level looking for a square cover with an exhaust vent.

If you do find one then it is probably an Atwood and the cover comes off with four phillips screws.

You will find a switch and a circuit breaker.  Try resetting the breaker or better yet if you have a 12 volt test light check for power on both sides of the small breaker.

You can bypass the breaker BUT ONLY IF YOU USE A FUSE TO PROTECT THE FURNACE.

Sorry if this seems to basic but I do not know how much you know about furnaces.
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Tech Talk / Re: Having issues with my thermostat
« Last post by Isaac-1 on Today at 12:03:53 AM »
Just to re-iterate a modern Hunter or some models of Honeywell thermostat can work as a direct replacement for the Dometic / Duo-Therm "Analog" thermostat as shown in the link in the first post.  There is no need to change out the control board in the air conditioner, the time the control board must be changed out is if you want to use a newer Dometic branded digital thermostat.
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Newcomers' Corner / Re: Converting an RV For Another Purpose, Need Advice
« Last post by Isaac-1 on January 20, 2018, 11:59:13 PM »
Water stains, rot, etc.

Over the years I have known a few people that have bought RV's and tried converting them to various business uses, the big problems they ran into were buying insurance, and ending up requiring CDL or at a minimum class D licenses.
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Motorhomes / Re: 1st time purchase
« Last post by Isaac-1 on January 20, 2018, 11:54:28 PM »
Unless it is in pristine condition and well updated that price seems awfully high for that coach, even in good condition I would expect it to sell for more like $14,000.  Being a '99 model on a Workhorse branded chassis this will be on a P series chassis, not sure if it is on a P32, or one of the rare heavier P series with front leaf springs (They only built a few hundred for 2 or 3 years, very rare, some unobtainable front suspension parts).  The simple truth is a 35 ft long motorhome with a slide is too big for the P series chassis, and the reason you see so many negative comments online about P30/P32 chassis having awful handling, this is why Workhorse introduced the W18 and W20 /W22 chassis in about 2002 -2003.
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Motorhomes / Re: Zone heating ... one zone gets heat but not the other
« Last post by HueyPilotVN on January 20, 2018, 11:49:23 PM »
Recently both my furnaces quit.  Usually when you have zoned furnaces they are two separate ones.  My problem was that both had blown fuses right at the back of the furnaces.  There was originally a circuit breaker at those locations but they had been replaces by fuses. 

Easy to check with a test light or even visual inspection by removing the outside cover.

If you only have a single furnace this would not help.   

Not questioning you answer but make sure that you do have only one.
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Newcomers' Corner / Re: Converting an RV For Another Purpose, Need Advice
« Last post by Primus Palus on January 20, 2018, 11:45:00 PM »
Trust me when I say... there are 0 shuttles that fit the length I need at the price I need. But if I travel to Las Vegas I can find a bunch as well as California. There are about 6 or 8 here and all $50,000+.

I did look at school buses. They're nice because they're all big and standard and cheap too (you can get them between $5,000-$20,000 here with most of them not even needing any mechanical work). The problem with buses comes the registration, CDL requirements, and insurance. Which because of how it'll end up being registered, will cost a lot. If it goes over a certain weight, I need a CDL. With RV's, they're exempt from that and insurance shouldn't be as bad as a bus. Insurance apparently thinks a school bus is the same as a transit bus too and when CDL stuff is involved they get to tack on a bunch of extra cash. Even though it wont be driven that much and transporting no one but me. My first registration with the RV will be as an RV. It'll still have all the internals (oven, fridge, bed, etc). Later when I need to re-register I might have to reclassify it when I gut it out.

As for the roof... anything I should be looking for as indicators or is it pretty obvious?
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Winnebago-specific issues / Re: 12v inverter wiring to the Entertainment center
« Last post by SCVJeff on January 20, 2018, 11:44:28 PM »
Yeah..  choose carefully. They come in 12, 24, 110, and 220v
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Newcomers' Corner / Re: Converting an RV For Another Purpose, Need Advice
« Last post by Isaac-1 on January 20, 2018, 11:32:02 PM »
You should steer clear of anything with roof issues, they are almost always beyond economical repair and the damage (rot) will be far more extensive than expected.

On a side point where is here, it seems like shuttle buses are available for sale everywhere, I know of 2 of them that are for sale within 5 miles of my house, one of which has been for sale for several months and I live in middle of nowhere western Louisiana.

p.s. you might also consider used school buses, some of them even have generators and air conditioning (often ones used for taking football teams to games, etc.)
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