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Towing and towables / Re: towable toads
« Last post by JakeR on Today at 02:49:57 PM »
Towing a 2010 Toyota Corolla S manual transmission.  Cost was less than $8K for only 69K miles.  Excellent shape, easy tow, large trunk and can easily carry 4 people.  Rather gutless going up mountains so we just get a run for it but it is a good tow car for us.  Fantastic heater, air conditioning pretty good.  Happy with our decision.
Remodeling your RV / Do you use curtain rod screws in your walls?
« Last post by PattyRN on Today at 02:46:21 PM »
I removed all the hideous valances, painted the darker portions in our living area, put the blinds back up and now I'm ready to hang curtain rods.  I thought about using command hooks spray painted the color of my rods but my big window is so high up that the top of the curtain rod would be below the top of the blind.  The only other option is to use the small screws that came with the rods.  Has anyone tried this successfully?  I have a 2015 Montana Mountaineer.
Fulltiming / Re: Going full time. What tools should I take?
« Last post by TonyDtorch on Today at 02:04:10 PM »
Chances are If you overthink it you'll end up carrying around a whole bunch of extra weight that you will seldom use other than to loan it out to other people.

As a Retired shop owner....I sold all my Snap-on and Milwaukee stuff,  and I now have a bucket of the essential hand tools that it would take to repair a some of the typical RV stuff and a Home Depot battery drill/tool set.

  If I ever need an inch pound torque wrench or 17m/m deep swivel-socket... I will just buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight and throw it in the dumpster when the job is finished.

However, what I've found is... When people that worked with tools retire...they sell all their cool tools to the other guys that retire,     so there's usually this friendly retired guy in a huge motorhome that carries around a full garage with rollaways/welders etc...and he's just a couple spaces down from you.

 Are you retired or not... ;)
Tech Talk / Re: GVWR Rating
« Last post by FastEagle on Today at 01:51:14 PM »
All true but not very relevant for a private vehicle. We are discussing an owner upgrade to reduce the risk of axle & tire failure on the highway, not an attempt to re-certify for heavier loads or commercial use.

Is it used for off road boondocking?
Plus sizing is usually for durability, not strength.
Weak link tire plus sizing is common.
What justifies plus sizing axles?
General Discussion / Re: I'm Looking At This Class C
« Last post by rls7201 on Today at 01:47:12 PM »
Richard,  I haven't seen on Class C with significant closet space.

Mostly true. What the OP is looking at, if you do the math. There will be about 12" per side closet space. 102" coach -74" wide bed = 28" - 2" per wall = 24" divided by 2 = 12" per closet.
May work for week ends.
Just making an observation.

Tech Talk / Re: GVWR Rating
« Last post by FastEagle on Today at 01:34:24 PM »
If the trailer frame manufacturer wants 6700 lb instead of 7000, they just slap a 6700# label on the 7000 lb axle when it comes off their assembly line.

And that's my bottom line. Axle manufacturers build to their own specs. They do not set GAWRs. That's the sole responsibility of the trailer manufacturer. Most trailer owners don't pay attention to that. They look at the label on the axle - maybe 7000# - and assume it's okay to load them to that weight, whereas, the trailer's axle limit is always the GAWR  - say 6700# - listed on the certification label which is often different from the axle manufacturer's load specs.

As an owner you can fool around with any of the limiting factors or weak link items. However, it is never recommended to use less than the minimum. I did not, in this thread, mention tire industry standards. Most want to do it their own way, right or wrong. Because industry standards are explained in a sort of "do it this way" manner, galls a percentage of readers.

Trailers are built with limitations. When the limit is GVWR or GAWR it's the limit, period. But, isn't there a fudge factor? What is it? Why limit something and than publish a fudge factor? They don't. It's a fictitious factor that differs in value by word of mouth. Engineer #1 says 10% and number 2 says 15%. Cut the difference and have a ball. One of the safety items it's doesn't work with is tires.   

Suggest purchasing a good infrared temp gun. Shoot bearing temps often when traveling. Bearings will tell you if they need attention long before problems occur. I try to check bearing temps after a near coasting stop so brake heat is not a factor.
Rallies, Shows, & Events / Re: FMCA Western Area Rally
« Last post by Wendy on Today at 01:32:24 PM »
Havenít decided yet but Iím now leaning toward going.
Rallies, Shows, & Events / Re: Total Eclipse 2024
« Last post by Wendy on Today at 01:30:22 PM »
Looking at the link Lou posted, looks like a big chunk of Arkansas will be good eclipse viewing.
General Discussion / Re: Wheel polish
« Last post by jubileee on Today at 01:22:07 PM »
Obviously cant polish clear coated or DuraBrite aluminum wheels. I use Mothers polish and Mothers power ball. ( large and small) Remove polish with corn starch on power ball or hand rubbing. Keep at it and it will polish out. I start with 1500 grit sand paper to work out rock chips on fuel tanks or radiator shells, but once you go down that road youíre opening yourself up for mucho polishing.
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