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Interestingly, on our way home from the Tetons on Sunday, the electronic road signs along I-25 stated "No oversized/weight loads Aug 20-22" -- guess they're expecting lots of traffic.

We're in the 92% area, and have no desire to fight the crowds, even though it's only about 3 hours drive north of here.
Trailers & Fifthwheels / Re: Best 5th Wheel under $30000.00
« Last post by Lynx0849 on Today at 06:25:46 pm »
The GVWR is from the sticker on the door of my truck. The sticker didn't give me the payload but it did give me the GAWR for the front of 5200 lbs and the GAWR for the rear of 6200lbs. My tow vehicle is a 4x4 if that make a difference. The payload I took off a generic table. The pin weight I figured 20% of the trailer GVWR. The trailer GVWR was taken from the yellow sticker on the trailer.

There should be a sticker on the door and on the B pillar. The one with yellow on the B pillar will list the specs on your specific truck as it came off the line.
General Discussion / Re: GMC 2008 diesel overheating
« Last post by GR 'Scott' Cundiff on Today at 06:23:30 pm »
When my Ford F350 started acting like that the clutch fan had failed.  The truck was new to me and I didn't even know what it was supposed to sound like.  Once it was fixed, on bigger pulls it sound like a helicopter was taking off under the hood.
General Discussion / Re: GMC 2008 diesel overheating
« Last post by catblaster on Today at 06:18:10 pm »
Will, do diesels have coolant thermostats like gassers?

yes sir
General Discussion / Re: Blind Spot Detection Questions
« Last post by Larry N. on Today at 06:17:03 pm »
The Beaver I had for four years had VORAD (Vehicle Onboard RADar), which had the forward radar plus a small one for each side, triggering a light and unique beep whenever a vehicle came in range on the side. The forward facing part was tied in to the cruise control, and would maintain a set distance (as the closest) behind other vehicles by changing throttle setting -- this was very handy, though there were occasional false alarms (for example a curve ahead with a metal guard rail might trigger it), and was a feature I liked.

The side facing part was more of an annoyance than anything, as the light was rarely noticed and the beep was usually after I'd spotted the "offending" vehicle in my mirrors. It also triggered on guard rails, telephone poles and other things that were within 10-15 feet of the side of the Beaver. The other problem was that the approaching vehicle might be along side the toad and the rear part of the Beaver for several seconds (or longer if relative speed was very slow) before it triggered.

Keep in mind that with typical truck mirrors, and with the mirrors I've had on each motorhome, the only real blind spot is within 100-200 feet behind the rig (the backup camera takes care of that). In fact on the motorhomes I've been able to see the front wheels in the wide angle mirrors, as well as off the pavement to the side. Even the side cameras are, to me, a waste, especially since they are usually triggered right at the time I want my backup camera to show me the clearance between my toad and another vehicle. And the screen isn't where my head goes when I want information about what's to the side.

As someone said above, it's a solution looking for a problem.
Well, here's a few more photos from our Ouray adventures. This area is unbelievable!! Today we went from 7300' to 12,227' and back and had lunch at 11,900' looking over an alpine valley. After lunch we went on to the summit and came around the corner to a whole slope above the tree line that was filled with probably 500+ sheep grazing in the alpine meadow. While on the trail we could look across the valley and see Hwy 550 and I caught a motor home going up the 8% toward the summit. I also managed to get a good shot of one of the local residents eating lunch.

If you have the chance, Ouray MUST be on your bucket list to visit. If you don't have a Jeep, RENT one for at least 3-4 days. There must be at least 6-10 Jeep rental places in town
^^ My guess as well ^^
General Discussion / Re: GMC 2008 diesel overheating
« Last post by lone_star_dsl on Today at 06:09:49 pm »
Will, do diesels have coolant thermostats like gassers?

Yes, they do.
Looks like a double din mounted radio. Should be two small holes on each side to insert a removal tool you can pick up at any auto or stereo equipment store.
Good luck.
just thinking out loud here....
as  an alternative thought, I'm wondering how it would be if you were to open up the holes into those two duct channels so that more air can move as opposed to it squeezing through that little crack.....and while at it close off the rest of the little crack that's not into the air duct channels to limit how much is going into the non-ducted space.

When i get a chance to open mine up, I figure I'll look at it with that idea in mind first.

Having seen it first hand, what our your thoughts based on what you saw?

Brad - when I first looked at the slits leading into what I finally realized are the duct channels I was thinking the same - try to open them up, but the space is only about an inch high - I can barely get my hand into the space. If I were to try to open it up, I would be taking away what little insulation I have on the inside of the room and ceiling, which is a pathetic 1/2 inch of Styrofoam. That thin slit is the ducting in my rig. As to the leaks into the non-ducted space, I'm suspicious there are leaks (who know how many) away from the opening near the A/C because I'm getting significant air flow through a light housing in the back of the living area.  Now I'm suspicious that there are many leaks, and my suspicion arises mainly because I'm doing other repairs and mods. For instance, my CO/propane detector needed to be replaced - I put in a new one, but because the factory had cut the hole too big, they put in a piece of plywood as a backer for the screw. The plywood was not attached and fell to the floor inside the wall space - fortunately the detector is near the floor. Unfortunately I had to unscrew a different wall panel inside a cabinet just to get my hand in to hold the loose piece of plywood so I could screw in the detector.  I also removed my old analog thermostat to replace it with a Honeywell - imagine my astonishment to discover they did the same thing on the opening for the thermostat wires!  Hole too big, and someone had put in a piece of the wall paneling as a backer.  These are not the only examples, only the latest ones, so I'm skeptical that I can do anything with the built-in ducts to make anything any better. I hope when you open yours you'll discover better build quality that what I'm discovering.

That is one of the worst designs I have ever seen pz. You are spot on with your diagnosis and fixes. IMHO you need to get the most cold air as possible, into the living area of the rig.  While a second AC may be an option, you can make the decision after you try out the rig with the newly directed cold air ducts. Let us know what you decide.

Marty - I ( and more importantly my wife  ;D ) totally agree with you - we need to get in as much cold air as possible. Fortunately the A/C is in the middle of the rig and all the cold air spreads out fore and aft quite easily. I ended up plugging the slits to the ducts and removing the sheet metal cover to the air flow grid - now 100% of the cold air goes straight down to the floor.  Fortunately due to the position of the A/C unit it does not blow right on to us because the wind is quite stiff! Before doing this modification, our A/C was so poor we actually missed our old entry level 23-foot TT because the A/C blew down such a large volume of cold air - now we have the same.  I'm confident that we will at least have better cooling power.

However, a few weeks ago I did another mod - we have a 30A rig so I made some changes so I could put in a portable 12,500 BTU heat pump, so now we should have plenty of cooling power with both units running.
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