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I'm an old man (74) but count me among those who find the GM trucks rather boring, inside and out.  Not uncomfortable or lacking in amenities, just not very stylish. "Style" is a matter of perception, but old guys can have younger perceptions too!
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Trailers & Fifthwheels / Re: dead batteries
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 09:15:18 AM »
There are things in the trailer that remain powered, e.g. the LP gas detector and the CO detector. Further, electrical upgrades after the RV leaves the factory are too often connected direct to the battery. Last, many modern gadgets aren't totally without power when they are "Off".   They remain on standby (low power) so that the circuit board can detect when the On switch is pushed. 

The total of all these small power draws are called the "phantom load" and sometimes add up to quite a bit. Shouldn't be enough to kill a battery overnight, though.

As already mentioned, that battery gauge in the trailer is off little value if the battery is anything other than 100% charged. A 2/3 reading on the meter could easily be "almost dead".  Further, the gauge will always show Full or 100% while the trailer is connected to shore power. The gauge shows the status of the active charger, not the condition of the battery itself.  If the battery gauge goes to 2/3 as soon as shore power is disconnected, you know the battery is NOT fully charged. If further charging doesn't bring it up, odds are the battery has a bad cell and cannot ever reach the expected full charge voltage.
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General Discussion / Nebraska Flooding
« Last post by Oldgator73 on Today at 09:10:18 AM »
Aftermath of flooding in Nebrask:

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Truck campers / Re: Furnace/AC Thermostat
« Last post by KristiS on Today at 09:07:02 AM »
Thank you for responding.

The part number for the thermostat is a Coleman 9430-3382. I have the installation/operation sheet associated with it, and there's no mention of internal settings, just the different modes.

I need to go look to see what the brand/model number of the furnace and AC are, as I don't remember right off hand.
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The Shade Tree / Re: Open neutral issue
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 09:01:30 AM »
If the neutral is truly open on a 120v outlet, it has no power, so the first question is whether the outlet works at all.  Second, you verified that the wires are tight, but did you check to see if they are connected to the right terminals?   Those light testers will give incorrect diagnostics if the wires are connected wrong, e.g. hot and neutral reversed or neutral & ground reversed. That's the simplest explanation.

In a standard 120v outlet, the white wires goes to the silver screw/terminal and the black to the brass/gold terminal.

Note that this is NOT the same condition as an open neutral on a 240v (4 wire) outlet. The symptoms will be different, even though the root cause is the same.
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General Discussion / nice little surprise with generator
« Last post by rbTN on Today at 08:59:23 AM »
while I was working on my furnace yesterday I was also exercising my 2200w portable generator so I plugged in the shore line to charge the batteries some. While waiting for the furnace to cycle, I though I wonder if it will power the microwave.... yep! no problem. Hum, lets give it a good test, how about the AC? Yep! no problem..

I guess the previous owner may have put a soft start on the AC since it cycles fine on the generator. Very happy to know, even though I don't pan on using the AC much.
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Trailers & Fifthwheels / Re: Electrical question
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 08:55:01 AM »
Quote
At home it is a dangerous idea, you can kill someone or get yourserf killed, but in a travel trailer it would be very different

That's not correct.  A travel trailer is NOT different from home power.  n fact, there is zero difference if the trailers shore plug is connected to an external outlet.  If not connected to shore power, the exposed pins on the shore cord are hot (120v) and likely to short or kill somebody.
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Motorhomes / Re: hot water
« Last post by steve jones on Today at 08:52:55 AM »
Originally i got to a rally and hooked up electric.  I already had the pump on before i got there and water ran fine out of faucets. We went to take a shower and noticed the water was pulsating from hot to cold.  The bath sink did it also.  I checked the outside shower and any other areas to make sure nothing was on draining it.  All was ok.  Water pressure was fine the whole rally but could not use shower because of the pulsating.  The sinks did it also.  Below tells what happened when i got back and hooked up to city water

Still need some help on the hot water issue.  Left the rally and returned to the resort in Foley Alabama and hooked up as usual with electric and CITY water.  Cut the shower water on and hot and cold work fine.  Works fine in the bath sink.  We both took showers and worked fine.  So, this only happened when using the pump.  I had just replaced the pump before we left for the rally.  Same pump, and there’s not much room for a mistake hooking it up.  Water supply in and out.  Two wires, and all hooked up just as the previous pump.  Somebody help, I have no idea how the pump could cause a problem with the hot and cold water mix. 
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Tech Talk / Re: atwood furnace not coming on
« Last post by rbTN on Today at 08:51:46 AM »
follow up to this problem, and hopefully a resolution...

The furnace continued to act up, some times it would cycle fine for hours then just stop working. A good bump to the black frame of the furnace (outside cover off) would get it working again. So I took it apart and started checking things. I could not get an indication of either the sail switch or the high limit being a problem and all connections seem clean and solid. So I just ordered a replacement sail switch and high limit. Put them in and it cycles fine so far.

I'll post another follow up later to confirm it is corrected.
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Motorhomes / Re: hot water
« Last post by Rene T on Today at 08:49:08 AM »
Instad of going back through your post, exactly what's happening?
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