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Tech Talk / Re: 454 getting too hot
« Last post by udidwht on Today at 04:34:02 AM »
Tom, I know you don't have the Allegro any longer, but if you ever have the same issue, the temp up when idling and coming down when moving is a very common symptom of a fan clutch.

Normal behavior.
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General Discussion / Re: RV-Travel trailer electric issues
« Last post by kdbgoat on Today at 04:29:37 AM »
Sounds like the same bad breaker someone had a month ago. They swore there wasn't a breaker at the tongue of their trailer until they opened a junction box the battery cable went into. The breaker is a small rectangle device that has two terminals, and possibly a reset push button.
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Tech Talk / Re: 454 getting too hot
« Last post by SeilerBird on Today at 04:20:03 AM »
Boy this was a real trip reading an old thread of mine. I had completely forgotten about all this stuff.
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Tech Talk / Re: 454 getting too hot
« Last post by udidwht on Today at 04:07:28 AM »
For P30 owners:

The stock T-stat is 195F. That means it will start to open at 195F degrees. Has nothing to do with what temperature the engine will run at. Going to a cooler T-stat will not allow the engine to run cooler. That is a huge myth. It will only delay how long it takes for the engine to warm up to what the manufacturer wanted the engine to operate at. This will actually increase wear overtime.

A 454 in an RV will run warmer than the same engine in a pick-up or car. How warm? That depends on timing, how well maintained the cooling system has been primarily. The clutch fan is calibrated to cycle on/off on a 90F degree day between high & low. Think of it as a 2 speed fan. The coil on the front of the clutch fan begins to engage at approximately 150 degrees radiator discharge air temp. That will very likely mean the engine temp will be at roughly 230+ before it fully engages (loud roar). This almost always requires a decent grade pull to acquire. Unless it a 90F degree day you likely won't hear the P-51 roar.

The dash gauge (temp) are not very accurate and generally will read higher than the real engine temp. If you suspect the gauge is reading high use an IR temp gun and monitor the T-stat housing and lower radiator hose temps. But remember the dash gauge gets it read from near the head on later (late 80-early 90+) 454 engines and that temp will on average be 20-30 degrees higher than the radiator inlet temp.

Do your IR reads while driving. On a 60-70F degree day or so you should see readings of 185-200 or so while driving (T-stat housing) Once in traffic or idling they will creep up to 205-210+. The lower hose  you'll have to get out after a highway run and check it rather quickly. But with a decent running cooling system it it should be 30+ degrees or so cooler than the inlet temp. Again checking the hose/s after a grade pll or heavy traffic will yield a narrower result between the inlet/outlet temps.

When checking the clutch fan use your hand to spin the fan (engine off cold) it should not spin very much at all if you attempt to fling the fan blade. Anther method (be very careful) use a tightly rolled up magazine and carefully attempt to stop the fan with the engine idling (warm). If the fan stops easily you need to replace it. Another method: When the engine is at operating temp stop watch the fan while turning off the engine. It should stop rather quickly with the engine. If the engine stops but the fan keeps free wheeling it needs replacing.

Id also be very reluctant to add fans or water spray to the stock set up. Why? Doing so will likely prevent the clutch fan from kicking in when it needs to kick in. Nothing moves air like a mechanical clutch fan. The coil on the front of the clutch fan needs the proper discharge air temp to work correctly.
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Tech Talk / Re: WiFi with no internet?
« Last post by SeilerBird on Today at 04:05:46 AM »
For various reasons like Sonos speakers and Apple TV or Chromecast, I would like a Wifi network in the motorhome.  Can I just plug in a router and create a network without a source?
No you can't. In order for a Wifi network to work there must be a source. Have you looked into using your phone as a hotspot?
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Tech Talk / Re: unable to get LP gas
« Last post by Isaac-1 on Today at 02:31:37 AM »
If it is old / original you should also replace the propane regulator, they have a rubber diaphragm in them that is prone to developing leaks as they age, a good rule of thumb is to replace them every 10 years or so.  It is also possible for them to fail either open or closed.
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Destinations, RV Parks, Routes / Re: Yellowstone suggestions please?
« Last post by camperAL on Today at 01:58:06 AM »
Greetings,

Not wanting to discourage anyone but I think you have to make reservations well in advanced in order to stay at the campgrounds. Of course people cancel and might get lucky to get a spot. I agree it is a very big park and requires driving around to see all of the spots, plus multipal days in order to enjoy it well.
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Newcomers' Corner / Re: 30 amp connection at a campsite
« Last post by camperAL on Today at 01:46:41 AM »
Hi Bobbyg,

I have a 30 amp RV and use house current to power my unit when out on the driveway. We have an electric dryer and the plug for that is a 20 amp. I can use that when my wife isn't using it for drying cloths. I use a converter plug that fits into my 30 amp cord for the motor home then can plug into a heavy duty electric cord which runs to the dryer plug. That will power my A/C but I don't try to run my microwave and A/C. Needless to say my wife is aware that she can't run the dryer when I am running the motor home and will say something to me before hand so we can disconnect the RV. I have checked the electric cord and it is cool to the touch but is a heavy duty cord made for that kind of power.

You wouldn't want to run a cheap cord or typical extension cord for this kind of use. Go to Harbor Freight or one of the many home improvement places and get a cord capable of handling this type of power.
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Tech Talk / Re: unable to get LP gas
« Last post by Tom Hoffman on Today at 01:05:42 AM »
If you have flare fittings DO NOT tape them.  Drive the coach to a Propane bulk Plant and ask for help with making sure you system is leak proof,  pipe thread fittings can use yellow gas tape.
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I am wondering if moving my rv to a place where there is shade from the sun might help, what do you folks think? Maybe that would make the difference in it overheating or not?

Meanwhile until I can move it, is there anything I could use to cover the a\c shroud with, to try and deflect some sun heat?

thanks
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