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Regardng "inaction on the dealer's part" (which is a common complaint on many if not all brands)

True story:
I had to take my Workhorse to an authorized service center for the fuel clip recall.. I went in and ask for an appointment in 2 weeks. They ask if I had the part but.. Thanks to inaction on the dealer's part (They promised to handle all the registritions) I got my recall via E-mail. not snail mail (Snail mail came with the part, cost about the same as the stamp after all)

Standard chevy part dozens of 'em in the back room but the service center (A Chevy dealer) said "Oh we can;'t get the part that fast"   I told 'em schedule the work I'd get the part...

Went home and called someone who's business card I had on file

about 3 hours later on his way home from work he stopped by and handed me both the part and another business card.. I attached one to the other and 2 weeks later handed them in......

Job done recall satisfied, oil change done.

A couple months later I had a problem also warranted..... The same service center had a part fed-exed over night. I mean they did all they could to make me happy.

The card... The national Customer Service manager for Workhorse.

Sometiems.. You just got to know who to call :)
My AC's are each on 20 amp breakers. My generator is an Onan Marquise 5500. 50 amps.
(Some stuff clipped)

The above is also true of my RV. and I do run both A/C's at one time off the generator. and more.

So that should answer your question and the answer is YES You can

Now if your RV is a 30 amp. you can only run one on shore but both on generator.

But if' it is 50 amp.> Well then your set up is exactly like mine in this respect.
Motorhomes / Re: The Monaco Lineup
« Last post by Tom on Today at 10:15:28 AM »
Thanks to the bankruptcy and change of ownership, the online Monaco brochures for that era are no longer available. Ardra provided a good list. Below the Windsor was the Camelot, knight, and Cayman (gas). Monaco changed the lineup a few times, e.g. they eliminated the Windsor and upgraded the Camelot. They also eliminated the Executive and upgraded the Dynasty. They introduced names for their optional Dynasty floorplans (they previously used letters such as PST = had 3 slideouts).

Which ones are you looking at?
Towing and towables / Re: E450 Class C towing ability
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 10:12:56 AM »
At what percentage of your GCWR do y'all really start to notice a drop in acceleration and hill climb? If I'm around 85-90% of my GCWR I imagine it'll be pretty significant.

Tough to answer and subjective as well. The transmission gearing plays an important role, so 5 or 6 speed trannys do better. The grade of the hill is another major factor, where an almost imperceptible difference can push the vehicle to a lower gear and a drastic reduction in speed. Traffic plays a role as well, since often the rig can maintain speed ok, but if it gets slowed by traffic it may have a hard time building up speed again.

Acceleration on the flats is mostly a matter of overcoming inertia plus rolling and air resistance, but in hill climbing the extra weight actually has to be lifted up the hill.
Tech Talk / Re: Battery Monitor
« Last post by Frank B on Today at 10:03:34 AM »

Whew!  :o

I have but 6 GC-2's for weight considerations.  I went 'solar heavy' for that size battery  for a couple of reasons:

  • Cost of panels is relatively low compared to total cost of the install, and I had the room.  4 panels or 6?  Yeah, lets go for 6.  ;D   And lets use 5" ingot residential 205 watt panels.  Got the room, and their price/watt looked really good.
  • I don't ever want to use a generator again, and some days we get cloud.  I want enough 'overkill' that I can keep my batteries charged even on cloudy days.  In fact, I typically get 20 to 25 amps in the rain.
My FM-80 controller is also overkill for the battery bank I have, but one day I may go Lithium.  I also bought a 1 ton truck to pull our last 4500 lb trailer.  Overkill then.  Just about right for our 11K 30' Artic Fox.  Future proofing.

So, you can see my overall philosophy.  And, yes, we boondock as much as we can.

I just LOVE our system.  Our first real outing was this past winter, and the system did even better than expected.  We used the microwave freely, the electric toaster every morning, my wife took a waffle iron, and I took our hot air corn popper just for a lark.  Besides watching Netflix in the evenings, and running two computers liberally.  Some times I just left them running as we had 'power to burn'.  Batteries never got below about 60%, and by 1 PM the next day they were already in float.  One day the 'noise' of the flame in the propane fridge bothered me (it was that quiet where we were), so I switched the fridge to AC and let the inverter run it the rest of the afternoon.  Electrical system didn't even blink.  Batteries were already full, and just the sun on the panels ran the fridge just fine.

Yeah, don't ever want to use a generator again.  ;D


It may be the same plug, but its not the same 50A. Your genset can produce a max of 5500 watts, while 50A shore power has a 12,000 watt capability. Your Onan 5500 probably has one 30A "leg" and one 20A leg, while the shore power outlet will have 2 50A legs.

While using the genset, the #2 power leg can only support one major appliance, so you probably cannot run any thing else that shares the #2 leg with the second (rear?) a/c. You need to look at your load center to determine what that "other" may be, but it's common to put the water heater on the #2 leg. since the water heater can cycle on at any time via its thermostat, you might want to put the heater in LP gas mode or simply turn it off when using the 2nd a/c on the genset.
General Discussion / Re: Would you (or do you) rent your motorhome??
« Last post by jymbee on Today at 10:02:08 AM »
Renting your RV may also affect your tax situation. Another thing to consider is if you have your RV financed, there may be a statement about renting it out.

Right-- taxes, insurance, potential damage... all factors that would need to be considered.

At the same time, looking on one site there's a Class A that's similar to what we envision getting near us that rents and it appears that at $250/ day + charges it's booked pretty much all season. Of course it's possible that some of those dates are blocked for personal use.

All in all we probably won't go that route but what we may do is to rent one ourselves for a few days (which most agree is a good way to get a feel for the overall experience) and perhaps get some insights from the renter as to how it works for them. There's a ton of private rentals out there so it must be a viable option in some cases.
General Discussion / Re: Would you (or do you) rent your motorhome??
« Last post by jymbee on Today at 09:53:03 AM »
In the boating industry, many bareboat companies do not own a single boat. Instead they make arrangements with privately owned boats to put them in their fleet. The owners mark off the time they need the boat, the company rents and even maintains the boat the rest of the time.

That's exactly how we rented a deck boat in FL earlier this year. The company's website claimed to have rental locations in a dozen or so locations. Big outfit? Nope, their "office" was a cell phone and a pickup and they did just what you described-- when you wanted a boat at a particular location they found one from their customers and delivered it to that location. No complaints and it seemed like a win-win from our perspective.
Sales people try to sell you what they have, not what you need, and few RV sales people have much in the way of professional skills.

To keep in your budget range, go with an older RV of the type you want. Don't get hung up on the old used car syndrome - this is a house moreso than a car and condition is more important than age.

As you have seen, you aren't likely to find a rear bed in the smaller sizes - there simply isn't room.  There are both Class C and Class A in the 26 ft range that should be laid out the way you want, but you will have to scout a lot online to find them. Try searching rvtrader.com and rvt.com to find models that might work for you. At least identify the models & floor plans, and maybe find one to buy as well.
General Discussion / Re: So just what does "Limited Warranty" mean?
« Last post by jymbee on Today at 09:47:32 AM »
Given Jayco is one of the models we're considering I spent some time looking around some more. On one of the Jayco specific forums when the warranty issue came up the conversation was started by a disgruntled Jayco owner who was not satisfied. Through the course of the conversation-- and as can be expected on any net forum-- there were a variety of responses.

Some claimed that Jayco could be exempt from repairs to anything they didn't manufacture-- stove, fridge, furnace, etc. If anything went wrong with those items it was up to you to resolve. However others with what seemed like a deeper understanding of it said, no-- Jayco would work through those other manufacturers on your behalf.

We're back at a dealers tomorrow and I'll get a copy of the actual document. Hopefully won't need an attorney to help decipher it.

One thing that DID surprise me somewhat-- being the cynic that I am-- is the number of people that held Jayco in very high regard claiming they were very satisfied with their aftermarket support. Most all said that most problems they've had were due to the inaction on the dealer's part, not Jayco and when they contacted Jayco directly they were able to resolve their issues.

Seems y'all are being a bit hard on Jayco. I see their only fault is advertising, "the best warranty in the business."
This is a manufacturers warranty, not an extended warranty. It's free. And as such, it is secondary to any other recovery you may have available.
It is for "defects in materials and workmanship", subject to the required maintenance. Nothing more.. nothing less..
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