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Winnebago-specific issues / Re: intermittent converter problems
« Last post by AStravelers on Today at 10:55:18 AM »
I checked connections, all are intact, batteries in good shape w no corrosion. How do I find or test the switch that activates the converter? Or, is it possible my power cord is faulty resulting in partial power loss, assuming there is such a thing?  Would I test that w a multimeter at an outlet? Thanks for your ideas, electric issues confound me!
Water level in the batteries?

Quote from your original posting:  " For example, on the last two night camping trips, on the first night, by bedtime the batteries were dead, the alarm was red and blipping, then by morning all was back to normal, and batteries levels indicated full charge.  On the second trip, first night was fine, then second night the lights dimmed, batteries indicated dead, and this time they did not recover overnight.  Trip was over so I drove an hour home, and batteries were charged, but I presume via the motors alternator.  I've not heard the cooling fan come on since being home, so the converter may now be done.. "

I really doubt your batteries were dead.  More likely a bad connection somewhere.  Batteries usually don't go from completely dead to full charge in a few hours or a 1 hour drive with charging from the alternator. 

I believe you are depending on the idiot lights to indicate if the battery if full or half full or dead.  These lights are not very accurate.  This is where you need the meter attached to the battery to see the actual voltage. 

Here is a link to good info about batteries and as you scroll down there is a battery voltage to state of charge (SOC) chart.  Note that this chart is for when there is no load on the battery, i.e. all the RV lights turned off, etc.  http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

If you batteries are truly going dead, you will normally see a slow decrease in voltage from full charge at 12.6V to around 11V.  If the converter is working you will see a pretty constant 13.4V to 13.6V.  If it is a newer 3 stage converter/charger you could see up around 14V for a while.

About the fan in the converter.  It should only run when working pretty hard at charging the batteries or supplying a pretty heavy 12V load.  If it is putting out about 13.4V it is working.

Again you need to volt meter to measure the voltage at the batteries when everything is working and again when the things are not working.  Otherwise we are kind of guessing as to the problem.
When I said under the dash it was referring to the inside. Over the Onan is out side of the coach under the dash. That is where Iím heading today. Stay tuned.
General Discussion / Re: kool seal roof coating
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 10:51:31 AM »
Probably not flexible enough for that. Heavy, too.
Something like 303 Fabric Guard will probably stop the awning seep. Easy to apply too.
Tech Talk / Re: unable to get LP gas
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 10:46:07 AM »
You must remove the gas line solenoid because it is normally closed (no gas flows). Without the old LP detector to force it open, you cannot get gas.

Yes, just remove it from the gas line. Whether you need teflon tape or not depends on how you make the connection, i.e. the type of fitting employed.  Make sure you get a fitting suitable for a gas line and knowledgeable advice on how to use it.  If teflon tape is required for the fitting, ask for the type rated for gas use - it is almost always yellow instead of the white rated for water lines.    However, it's not a gas safety requirement.   The yellow "gas" tape is simply double-density and is used solely because it is less likely to let a shard of tape split off and get into the gas line and clog something up.
Trailers & Fifthwheels / Re: Questions about a Trailer I'm buying.
« Last post by Joezeppy on Today at 10:41:20 AM »
FWIW our 2000 Wilderness 27BH (Fleetwood made the Wilderness, Terry, and Prowler which all had several similar floor plans) was 5,200 empty and 7,000 gross. Our floor plan was not the same but similar - front bed, mid couch/dining/kitchen, and rear bunks & bath. It was 29' total length.
General Discussion / Re: I cannot pass up a good deal
« Last post by Dragginourbedaround on Today at 10:34:26 AM »
Anything I said would be redundant. Good on ya Bill  :)) :)) :))
Me too!
Tech Talk / Re: AC
« Last post by mel s on Today at 10:33:09 AM »
I thought the RV thermostats were all 12 Volt DC.   ::) :-\

Rene T
You are correct...A blown 15A fuse in the 12VDC circuit powering the A/C thermostat will result in a non running A/C unit.
You have a blower fan and condenser fan on top. I didn't know which motor you replaced. Is it one motor that runs both or two different mitor fans. If it is one motor maybe the fan blades came loose on condenser side. Just throwing out some ideas since it started after the motor faliure replacement. I would just climb up and see if you are getting air through your coils.
Tech Talk / Re: AC
« Last post by mel s on Today at 10:23:35 AM »
I was fooling around with the lights in the bedroom, which looks like it is on the DC circuit, i blew a 15 amp fuse. But at the time the AC was on, and i lost power to that when thefuse blew. The breaker for the AC was not tripped. So I wired off the lights so they wernít in the circuit, and replced the fuse, and the AC came back on.
I donít understand, I thought the AC was protected by the breaker labeled AC, not the blade fuse (15amp) labelled bedroom

Barry J
I suspect that blowing the 15 amp fuse labeled bedroom cut the 12VDC power to the A/C thermostat.
Newcomers' Corner / Re: 30 amp connection at a campsite
« Last post by Gary RV_Wizard on Today at 10:20:44 AM »
A standard house circuit SHOULD be able to run ONE air conditioner in an RV provided nothing else is drawing power.  Either on that circuit from another outlet or inside the RV.  But if it is 15 amp outlet.. It will be very very tight.
That may be true if that outlet is the only one on that15A  branch circuit, but in most houses there will be multiple outlets sharing that 15 amps. If any other outlet is using some power, there probably won't be enough total power to handle that plus whatever the RV wants and the breaker will trip.
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