Hints, Tricks and Gadgets/Tools --- small ones.

Urban Hermit said:

I keep a jug of bleach in the plumbing bay for . . . unfortunate incidents.

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I carry lime and a shovel in the trunk for the same reasons.

Boat Bum said:

I carry lime and a shovel in the trunk for the same reasons.

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That's too much work for me. I hire those out.

John From Detroit said:

The Tester I use on my batteries

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When wet cell batteries (I'm ignorant about AGM and other advanced types) are charged the chemical reaction takes place from the anode and cathode connections and over time permeates the whole battery, so that immediately after charging a voltmeter will read falsely high. Apparently the charged state chemistry diminishes from the bottom up, which is why without a load the top of the cells will register a good charge while the cells at depth are weaker. A heavy load will quickly reverse the chemistry at the top of the battery and drop it to the lower average, generating the lower true readings.

I think.

Urban Hermit said:

When wet cell batteries (I'm ignorant about AGM and other advanced types) are charged the chemical reaction takes place from the anode and cathode connections and over time permeates the whole battery, so that immediately after charging a voltmeter will read falsely high. Apparently the charged state chemistry diminishes from the bottom up, which is why without a load the top of the cells will register a good charge while the cells at depth are weaker. A heavy load will quickly reverse the chemistry at the top of the battery and drop it to the lower average, generating the lower true readings.

I think.

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Thank you.. I know load testing is one of the better ways (Actually a multi-test is best but those testers are expensive) Sometimes that simple carbon pile job will clear a bad battery or catch one the many dollar tester at say Auto Zone missed....
I do believe in testing under load.
Another example of a "load Test".. I have a couple of automotive test lights.
It's basially an ice pick with a 12 volt bulb and a wire coming out the handle... I clip the wire either to a known good ground or to a long "Extension" wire clipped to a known good ground.

Touch the tip to a known 12 volt source and if the light is not bright. Fix it (The tester).
Then I an test blade fuses in place touch one end then the other (The windows offer access
BRIGHT BRIGHT good. Dark Dark no test Bright Dark or Dark bright = Blown
I had a wire that went High Resistance.. Voltmeter shoed good.. Light dark... Found the bad spot and did a bit of surgery.. Worked well after that (Still does in fact)

reddogsrunning said:

Here's one of mine. I have to park under two Oak trees at the residence. The gutters on my TT are always clogged with leaves and what does drain just finds the easiest route out of the gutter. Usually down the side of the TT. I try to keep them cleaned out but ladders and I have a history of disagreements so I came up with a way to clean them with my feet on the ground.
I went through my stash of PVC and came up with a power wand that I can use from the ground. I made it out of 3/4" PVC and long enough for me to reach the gutters easily. Just hook it to the hose. I put the extra slip to hose fittings in so that I can adjust the direction it sprays and it also does the house gutters. No more ladders but the ER guys might miss me.
this is my first try with pictures so please bear with me.

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Creative thinking. Long J-shaped nozzles are widely available but I don't know if they've got a valve.

Valve can be added if not so equipped.. hose fittings wall in hardware store has 'em

I know one fellow with a pine needle problem in his RV gutters when stored that solved it by buying a long enough rope that fit snugly in the gutters. He puts it in place from the ground using his awning rod, and just pulls it out and coils it up when it's time to go camping.

To stop black streaking on the side of my rv I merely put a clothespin on the end of the gutter. Now the water runs to the end Of the clothespins then drips down. Went to FL from NH and back a couple of times and they are still there

edjunior said:

Our method of testing the smoke alarm is to pop a couple of pieces of bread in the toaster…

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We successfully test ours several times on a trip using the aforementioned “toaster” method. Almost a daily occurrence, we know we’re safe for another 24 hours.

On a serious note, a 3/4-14NPT tap, used by hand only, cleans up the threads of your water heater, so your anode rod has a perfect fit. Been using one for years, never had a problem.

On a serious note, a 3/4-14NPT tap, used by hand only, cleans up the threads of your water heater, so your anode rod has a perfect fit. Been using one for years, never had a problem.

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  I use a brass-bristle "toothbrush", works well (think I got it in 07) and probly cost a lot less than a tap.

The one you show is a 1/2” pipe tap. I think it would be a loose fit.