The RV Forum Community

Find a truck repair place that has a dynamo so you can put the RV on it and then test the pressure, voltage at the pump and whatever else that should be tested in real time.    That is going to take some $$. 

My personal choice for loose trim pieces is usually construction adhesive or "GOOP" adhesive.

This brings up another point, NADA is useless, particularly on coaches over about 10-15 years of age.  It is at best a depreciation schedule, and at worst it is a  a poor one.

Let me give my coach as an example, I have a 2002 Safari Trek, which I bought for about $21,000 after 5 months of active shopping in 2016, it was in middle of the price range for the years I was considering (2001-2004), and had an asking price of $25,000, it was mostly well maintained and updated by the previous owner with new carpet, seating, refrigerator, 400 watts solar, pure sine wave inverter, batteries, 2 year old tires, and about $3,000 in suspension upgrades (track bar, etc.)

According to NADA a 2002 Safari Trek is worth $15,150 average retail, what is worse is it was $15,150 when I bought it 4 years ago, and any P32 chassis motorhome with no slide under 30 ft long built between 1997 - 2004 is worth $15,150 average retail according to NADA, it does not matter if it is a 2001 Safari Trek with Aluminum side walls, full body paint, hard wood cabinet work, etc  with an MSRP of $109,000 or a 1997 Fleetwood Flair 25Y  with vinyl graphics and particle board cabinets which had an MSRP of $55,006

This is how to do it.....

https://www.facebook.com/100003645369055/posts/1885863431545151/?app=fbl

With this added information about roof and wall condition, etc. I say RUN AWAY, and be VERY glad you paid for the inspection.  Keep shopping, and if you are not going to be spending a lot of time in the mountain states, really give some consideration to a 33-34 ft gas class A built in the 2000's, something on the Workhorse W series chassis with the 8.1L built after 2001 or on the Ford F53 built after 2006.  They will be a lot cheaper to maintain than a diesel if you are only planning on using 6-8 weeks per year.

As to the rest of the stuff, there are a whole lot of components that age out on an RV at around the 12-15 year point, these are mostly things with rubber components, which includes belts and hoses, as well as various suspension and steering bushings, diaphragm in the propane regulator, ...  You also tend to start seeing failure of RV appliances around the 15 year mark, though some last longer, my coach is 19 years old now, and many, but not all of these rubber parts along with the refrigerator were replaced by the previous owner who put $10,000 in parts alone into the coach in the two years preceding my purchase of it in 2016.   Even with that I have spent a few thousand dollars on additional repairs and upgrades, mostly doing my own work except for the heavy lifting stuff as I have a bad back.    Notably this has included about $750 spent on the dash air conditioner just after I bought it (which has failed again on our last trip 6 months ago), $1,500 on new ball joints, $250 new fan clutch, $145 new Alternator, $ 70 and a whole lot of hours and expletives replacing the generator starter,  $750 having new hard line fabricated for the automatic parking brake (pin hole leak), as well as various upgrades (LED lighting, sink faucet, new toilet, magneshade windshield cover, ...)

Next year I already have $3,000 in the repair budget not counting the dash air conditioner, this includes new tires, as mine will turn 7 years old this fall, possibly a new roof air conditioners,   The next year if all goes well I will spend $1,900 getting some mostly cosmetic paint and minor body issues repaired, ...

So to put it another way, buying an RV is just a drop in the bucket when compared to ongoing costs of ownership, therefore buy the coach in the best condition you can find when you do.