Battery Control Center Circuit Board

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ELeland

ELeland

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Posts
211
Location
Jupiter, FL
I have a BCC manufactured by Intellitec in my coach.  I have a circuit board problem I just discovered that is preventing the chassis batteries to charge properly on shore power due to a burned Molex pin connection to the Isolator Relay Coil (Per the downloaded Manual). I bought a new Molex female pin connector but the male pin in the board itself is loose and feels burned on the back of the board as well.  I'm no electronic genius so that is as far as I went and never installed the new connector or removed the board to inspect damage to the back side.

The problem has been there for a while as last summer I had to install a dedicated charger to the chassis batteries to keep them up.

Are the boards repairable?  Can I get a replacement?  I am currently traveling for work in my coach and can't live with any downtime so a replacement might be a good option.  I can also get by with the secondary charger but I would like to get this repaired.

I sent an email to Intellitec but have not had a reply and hopefully they will have a solution when they do.  With all the experience here, I'm sure someone has seen a similar issue.

I've attached pictures of my BCC and the burned connector.

As usual, any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!
Ed
 

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THat is fairly easy to repair. but.. YOu need to know how.. The pin will likely need to be resoldered. or if not you will have to be very careful applying the connector to it so as to not tear the circuit board trace.
 
I don't think Intelletec makes boards for those any more, but when I needed one I found a parts place that still had one in stock. And there are several variants of the BCC, so you need a specific board.

I had a pal replace a solid state component on mine - he is much more skilled than I at circuit board repairs.
 
Thanks John and Gary - When I wiggle the connection I can hear a significant click like contact is being made so the connection on the back of the board may still be marginally intact.  Resoldering may be the answer but removal and repair is above my pay grade.  I'm afraid of messing it up and leaving something inoperable.
 
If you don't want to mess with the board, remove the entire box and take it to a friendly electronic repair tech (often they moonlight). Whichever way you do it, take pictures and write notes before disassembling anything.
 
Update:

Intellitec emailed me back and put me in touch with M & M RV Electronics from Ohio.

Chris Bayus
M&M RV Electronics
205 N Main St.|Ohio City, OH 45874
(419) 965-2662|(419) 965-3014

www.mmrvelectronics.com/

As suspected, the BCC is no longer produced and needs to be repaired.  They recommended (like Gary said) to remove the complete unit and ship it to them for bench testing and needed component replacement.  They suspect there could be an underlying problem that caused the burned connection in the first place so just soldering the board may not work.  I will be without any coach or chassis power while the unit is being fixed so I need to plan a time window to get it done.

It looks like the cost will be roughly $500 plus parts and a $200 expediting fee to get to the front of the line. Otherwise there could be a 2 week wait to get it to the bench once they receive it. I'm thankful everything is currently working and I'm not forced into this repair today.  If I was in or near Ohio, they said I could drive it to their facility and get it fixed on the spot.

I would like to find a repair facility closer to Florida / Georgia for the same day fix if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks for the input!

Ed

 
https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Company_Info.htm

Get in touch with these guys.  Maybe they could help.
 
You shouldn't be without chassis power with the BCC disconnected - it's at the end of a auxiliary branch and not on the main chassis path. You will probbaly lose power to slides or other major functions that are routed from the BCC. Power to the house 12v bus may also go through there on some BCC models.  The latter is easily jumpered, but you said you aren't comfortable messing with electrical stuff.
 
Thanks for the link wackymac.

Gary - All of the house fuses are in the BCC so a jumper may not be the right thing for me to do with my lack of electrical knowledge.  :eek:

I'll keep searching for a somewhat local shop and see what I find as it's not something that is hindering the house or chassis operation at this time.

Thanks,
Ed
 
Thanks House Husband.  That is the manual I have for my unit that I found with a Google search.  Your link is for a manual a couple of years newer though and not sure what the differences might be.
 
I have a couple Intelletec BCC manuals.  Can you identify the BCC model number?  It's usually printed on the circuit board or inside the cover.  Some common ones are 5300769, 5300886, and 5300861 and I have those.  Some models have many slots for general purpose 12v fuses, while others have only several and have pre-assigned functions.
 
Gary - The part number is 53-00755-000.  I asked if there were replacements available and it was a resounding NO. 

Attached is the board layout. The J7 pin at the top is where it fried.
 

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Yet another different board layout from Intelletec. Maybe an exclusive one for Airstream?  I know they did one for Fleetwood.  None of those available, either. 
 
Update - The BCC was removed and sent to M & M in Ohio for repair.  It wasn't cheap as I had to have it air freighted both ways and pay an expediting fee to get to the front of the line.  Total cost was in the $1,000 range and 4 days total time.  Since I'm working from the MH, I didn't have much choice. This time of year it could have taken weeks otherwise.

All is good!
 
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