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Author Topic: What are typical floor construction types on a TT? Fixing a soft floor in TT.  (Read 5017 times)


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I have a '02 Coleman Caravan 25' that I recently purchased knowing it had soft spots in the floor.  The water leak in the roof has been fixed.  Now to fix the floor, I have cut two core samples with a hole saw in the floor in cabinets to see how the floor is constructed.  The floor is a sandwiched type construction consisting of the inside vinyl floor covering, 3/8" untreated plywood, 1-1/2" of white styrofoam, another layer of 3/8 or 1/4" plywood, then some type of light grey vapor barrier (?) on the bottom exposed to the exterior elements.  The 'sandwich' is still wet where I cut the holes and needs to go!  I know the walls are set on the floor during the trailer's construction so I will have to deal with that too.  My inclination at this point is to completely remove the existing floor 'system' in the entire trailer and replace it with treated wood etc. starting at the front and work my way back one section at a time.

My question is what are my options to fill this void of approx. 2-1/4" in my floor? 

Do all trailers have some form of insulation like this one does?  Is it needed?  I am in Missouri where it gets cold in winter and I plan to use it for hunting trips in winter. 

What are other methods of floor construction when TT's are built at factory?

How would you proceed if it was yours? 

What are my options guys?  The amount of knowledge on this forum is great.  Thanks, Jeff

Gary RV_Wizard

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That is the common method of floor construction in RVs. Cheaper models have less insulation and thinner subfloor plywood (or equivalent) and some may even have a metal sheet at the bottom, but the sandwich is basically the same. Yes, the insulation is important for your comfort, though the R value of 1 1/2 inch of Styrofoam is not great.

You will likely find that the sidewalls were put on top of the flooring as well as the cabinets, so you are going to have to deal with that somehow. You might need to just open up the soft areas, let it air out as much as possible and just replace sections by whatever means you can.
Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL


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Have you noticed any exterior wall bulges just above the lower trim strip?  If so, the floor is soft in this area and isn't supporting the wall any more.  I have a 2003 C25 SLB with the same problem. I'm very interested in seeing how you procede.  I've read of other owners using 1.25" aluminum tubing and tying it into the existing perimeter frame then using 5/8 T&G upper decking and 3/8 lower decking. If you intend to use the existing stabilizer jacks, the sub floor will have to be thick enough to bolt these to.

Good luck with your repair and PLEASE share your experiences.


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