RVing message boards > Tech Talk

Bypassing fridge control board

<< < (2/3) > >>

Jim Dick:
Pat,

We all hope the big things are covered but not always so. On original warranties they would be. One must read the fine print on extended warranties to see what really is covered. Folks here have had situations where one part failed but it took out other parts. The original failure was covered but the ensuing failures were not. Like a lot of things it's a big crap shoot and we hope we come out winners.

We're in our 5th year of ownership on our American Dream. Everything is on our dime now. :)

Good news is it appears the only problem with the refer is the fans. They are not running and I assume the thermostat has probably failed. The only problem is the unit must be removed from the wall to access the fans and thermostat. Luckily I'll have help to do that. :)

Karl:
Jim,

I'm assuming (never a safe thing to do) you have the 1200 model and not to sound insulting, but did you check the 5A fuse on the board and for +12 on the white wire going to the motors?  I can ask stupid questions because I just (almost) did a stupid thing. Water heater wouldn't fire up so I was all ready to order a new control board. Removed a 5 contact connector and noticed that the green wire (ground) coming from it went to a screw which held the plastic board in place. Sure enough, it was loose and corroded. Cleaned it and gave it a new ground hole to screw into and a separate screw to mount the board. Fired right up. DUH! And a question: What in the world does the flapper heater do? (please don't say it heats the flapper :-\)

Jim Dick:

--- Quote from: Karl on August 02, 2005, 09:39:33 PM ---Jim,

I'm assuming (never a safe thing to do) you have the 1200 model and not to sound insulting, but did you check the 5A fuse on the board and for +12 on the white wire going to the motors?  I can ask stupid questions because I just (almost) did a stupid thing. Water heater wouldn't fire up so I was all ready to order a new control board. Removed a 5 contact connector and noticed that the green wire (ground) coming from it went to a screw which held the plastic board in place. Sure enough, it was loose and corroded. Cleaned it and gave it a new ground hole to screw into and a separate screw to mount the board. Fired right up. DUH! And a question: What in the world does the flapper heater do? (please don't say it heats the flapper :-\)

--- End quote ---

Karl,

You assumed correctly this time. :) I have the 1200LRIM but only have 3A fuses. I did check them and also checked the terminal of the sense wire to be sure it wasn't a break in the board. Then I measured the resistance between the sense wire and the ground wire. Appears to be about 13Megohms. I'd say the thermostat is toast but I'm no expert. :)

Flapper heater is a new one on me. I'll have to ask tomorrow if I get called to work. Bad grounds are the majority of the electrical problems we find in RVs.

Karl:
Jim,

Not sure what you mean by the sense wire, but the wires for the fans, thru the thermostat, are the 2 immediately to the right of connector P1 on the power board. If you measure 13meg's there, I agree that the thermostat is toast. Hard to imagine BOTH motors opening up :'( The parts list says the fuse is 5 amp, but typos and e/c's do happen.

Jim Dick:
Karl,

In following the primitive diagram for the electrical wiring with my refer it shows what they call the sense lead going to the thermostat and then to the two fans. The ground wire comes from the other side of the fan. I took the two leads that were labled the same way on the board and checked continuity. I don't think the fans are necessarily bad but the thermostat is open thereby giving the huge reading. At least that's what I'm hoping!!! :)

You're right about mislabling. Another fuse is labeled as an 8 amp and I know the one in there certainly isn't.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page