JB Kwik Weld or original JB Weld?

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adun015

adun015

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Posts
283
I am sealing the fuel inlet fitting on my newly rebuilt rochester 4 bbl carb. The reason is due to a couple of things, first I have bypassed the internal paper filter for a better filter with easier access in line before the carb. and second that the inlet always leaked and it is now time to take care of it for good ( I hope ).
JB Kwik weld has a working time of less than 4 minutes while the original has a working time of almost 20 minutes according to the literature, my question is has anyone used the Kwik weld and is it really that fast. If so I may not have time to complete coating the fitting and the inlet before it sets. I have worked with the original and may have a problem with it taking a little long to set as it will continue to flow for a few minutes.
Just curious Kwik weld users....
 
utahclaimjumper said:
The original is much stronger than quick.>>>Dan
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I believe in my application where it will be subject to the engine heat I will go with the original. I will let it get a bit tacky before I begin the application and I should have time to get the pieces assembled and lined up correctly.  I prefer the strength and heat numbers better also. I have used the original and it does the job.  I will keep the kwik weld in reserve in the toolbox for those quick fix needs.
 
The deed is done, at least partly. I had cleaned all the fixture and threaded areas and let set for a two days to allow all the gasoline to evaporate. I also heated it a little with a heat gun so any surface stuff would release and cleaned. I applied the original JB Weld to the inside of the threaded inlet and to the filter holder ( brass ). I set the carb upright with the fixture up so any flowing would flow to the area I needed sealed. It looked really good this morning but I'm going to let it cure for another 48 hours to be sure before applying gas & pressure to it.
X your fingers, if this works I save a bundle on a replacement carb.
 
Not sure if that's a good way to fix a fuel leak...been seeing a lot of burnt coachs on the web lately, not a pretty sight. :'( If the fine threads in the carb are worn out, just get another carb and rebuild it. Is this a Chevy, Q-Jets are a dime a dozen, everybody thinks they are the worse carbs around (well maybe ThermoQuads get a worse rap). Or is your fitting worn out, you can find those new. Be safe.
J
 
There used to be a kit to put an adapter into these carbs.  It consisted of a reamer/thread cutter and a brass(?) fitting that screwed into the new thread and had female threads for the fuel line to attach to the carb.  I haven't fixed one of these carbs in 50 years but it was a common problem for the shade tree mechanics that over torqued the fitting.  Been there done that as a teenager!  :)
 
34footer said:
Not sure if that's a good way to fix a fuel leak...been seeing a lot of burnt coachs on the web lately, not a pretty sight. :'( If the fine threads in the carb are worn out, just get another carb and rebuild it. Is this a Chevy, Q-Jets are a dime a dozen, everybody thinks they are the worse carbs around (well maybe ThermoQuads get a worse rap). Or is your fitting worn out, you can find those new. Be safe.
J
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Yeah you would think they would be a dime a dozen but remember some of these q-jets were build for a specific application and guess what, mine is one of those. I have searched junk yards, the internet etc etc and could not find a middle section for the rebuild. I received this fix from quite a few of the older mechanics that say it works if you take your time and be sure it's clean before you seal. Will keep the board posted as I will be putting it back on and testing it this afternoon.  As far as a fire if I see a leak it's coming off and I will get a rebuilt from the parts store. Actually it was one of the guys there that suggested the JB Weld as a fix before spending the additional money on a rebuild. He said keep a watch on it check it every time you check your oil or other engine components and if you see the leak coming back it's time to change it out.
 
Jim Godward said:
There used to be a kit to put an adapter into these carbs.  It consisted of a reamer/thread cutter and a brass(?) fitting that screwed into the new thread and had female threads for the fuel line to attach to the carb.  I haven't fixed one of these carbs in 50 years but it was a common problem for the shade tree mechanics that over torqued the fitting.  Been there done that as a teenager!  :)
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Those kits are still available from Dorman products, and this had already been done. It is a very common problem and even more common was when the fix was done it gets cross threaded and then you are out a carb or you go with the JB Weld to completly seal the fitting off. It means redoing some fuel lines and inserting a new in-line fuel filter for the fine filtering of the fuel before the carb.
 
One other side note, I had a similar issue with a motorcycle but was not the fuel but the oil pan. A screwdriver fell off a truck and stuck the underside of my bike and hit just so it punctured the oil pan. Used JB Weld and never had a problem with a leak. I realize that oil is not as strong as gas but, this fix worked and it was in a very hot area and subject to the oil as well. The great thing was you could not even tell the hole nor the fix was even there.
 
adun015 said:
He said keep a watch on it check it every time you check your oil or other engine components and if you see the leak coming back it's time to change it out.
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IF it starts leaking while you are driving it will cause big problems quick. Out her in CA the big block carbs are everywhere.
We have the auto swap meets and you always see them. The primaries are larger on the BB carb. post your carb number I make spot one for at our Pick-A-Part yards. Just want you as safe as possible. BTW, I love your coach, those were high-line in their day and not too shabby now. The wood was always top notch.
J
 
34footer said:
IF it starts leaking while you are driving it will cause big problems quick. Out her in CA the big block carbs are everywhere.
We have the auto swap meets and you always see them. The primaries are larger on the BB carb. post your carb number I make spot one for at our Pick-A-Part yards. Just want you as safe as possible. BTW, I love your coach, those were high-line in their day and not too shabby now. The wood was always top notch.
J
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Thanks it is a very nice coach and one of the reasons I want to get it right. The carb fix did not work as others on the forum cautioned. I have orderded a rebuilt and the parts house is looking and it is going to be expensive ($440.00 but I will get $50.00 back for my newly rebuilt so I only go in the hole on the core for $70.00 OUCH..). The hard thing is matching the number. (Rochester #17080512) as it is set up very specific. I can find many many many that are close but it will either not have a vacuum line inlet that is needed or it has the wrong fuel inlet. Some have divorced chokes and I need a hot air or they have the electric module and I can't use it. I could convert over to an electric choke but same problem as above. I know that an edelbrock model #1903 will work but good Lord those are almost $700.00 plus shipping. By the way if you do happen on one at at the Pick a Park yard please let me know. It would be great just to have a good core if I needed it.
I am just hoping that the rebuilt can be found. The parts house is in the process of looking.
 
adun015 said:
Thanks it is a very nice coach and one of the reasons I want to get it right. The carb fix did not work as others on the forum cautioned. I have orderded a rebuilt and the parts house is looking and it is going to be expensive ($440.00 but I will get $50.00 back for my newly rebuilt so I only go in the hole on the core for $70.00 OUCH..). The hard thing is matching the number. (Rochester #17080512) as it is set up very specific. I can find many many many that are close but it will either not have a vacuum line inlet that is needed or it has the wrong fuel inlet. Some have divorced chokes and I need a hot air or they have the electric module and I can't use it. I could convert over to an electric choke but same problem as above. I know that an edelbrock model #1903 will work but good Lord those are almost $700.00 plus shipping. By the way if you do happen on one at at the Pick a Park yard please let me know. It would be great just to have a good core if I needed it.
I am just hoping that the rebuilt can be found. The parts house is in the process of looking.
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What state do you live in? Do you have smog tests? At Summit Racing, you can get an E'brock carb for way less. 400 for a r/built? No way. Have you checked Ebay? Since we don't really drive MH's daily, we can usually wait for a good price. SuperShops has free shipping, if you have time I can check some of my sources. Try to post some pics of your carb, top, and the four sides.
J
 
34footer said:
What state do you live in? Do you have smog tests? At Summit Racing, you can get an E'brock carb for way less. 400 for a r/built? No way. Have you checked Ebay? Since we don't really drive MH's daily, we can usually wait for a good price. SuperShops has free shipping, if you have time I can check some of my sources. Try to post some pics of your carb, top, and the four sides.
J
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I live in N.C. Yeah their ( Summit Racing ) rebuilt rochester is only 396.95 + shipping and core return which will run a little over $440.00 when all said and done and no 1903's to be found. I found one used 1903 on e-bay for $299.00 which will need a rebuild and I will wind up with about $400 and some change. I can not find a rocheter core on ebay which match's mine that I can rebuild. So it looks like $400 is about the price I'm looking at.
 
Rebuilt carb was located and I received it Wednesday of last week. Waited until Saturday to install and did not take very long ( getting pretty good at removal and reinstall ). After just a short cranking,  fired up and only had to do an adjustment to the idle set. Was pushed for time so I did not get to do a drive around and do any minor adjustments that might be needed but will get that out of the way in the next day or so. 
Should be ready for camping by next available long week-end off. .. ... YEAH....
 
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