Can't inflate or deflate my tire

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sluggermike

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A couple years ago I replaced all six of my MH tires.  I occasionally checked the tire pressure on all six tires.  No problem.  Recently I purchased a tire monitoring system.  Before putting on the sending units I checked the tire pressure.  I noticed that I was not able to get a reading on the right rear outside tire.  All the other tires tested OK.  I replaced the tire pressure stem valve.  I notice that when I took the stem valve out there was very little air coming out of the tire.  I did not notice any difference when I replaced the valve.  I still was not able to inflate or deflate the tire.  It seems that the stem is being blocked within the tire.  I was wondering if running a 12ga wire up the stem into the tire would help remove the blockage.  I don't want to have the tire removed and dismounted if possible.  i suspect it would be expensive, and maybe not necessary.  Any suggestion?
 
The stem is metal.  It is attached to a metal braided hose which appears to be attached to the rim of the tire.
 
sluggermike said:
The stem is metal.  It is attached to a metal braided hose which appears to be attached to the rim of the tire.
Click to expand...
The valve stem is the part actually in the rim. The extension hose attaches to the valve stem then extends out to a bracket on the hub. It sounds like you may have a damaged hose. Have you ever put tire sealer in that tire?
 
No, I've never used sealer.  I'm wondering if running a 12ga wire up the hose will clear it, or make it worse?
 
sluggermike said:
No, I've never used sealer.  I'm wondering if running a 12ga wire up the hose will clear it, or make it worse?
Click to expand...
I would take the hose off. If there is something in the hose, I would want it out. If it is pushed into the tire, it may find it's way back into the hose.
 
Thanks for the help.  I will take the hose off as suggested.  I will let you know what I find, maybe the lost tool that I've been looking for.
 
Removing the screw-in valve from the stem should let the air rush out, so something is indeed blocking it. If you had the tires balanced with Equal or Dynabeads, and they did not install the filtered valve stems, they can clog it up. If it was balanced with eternal weights, it may be that a piece of debris got caught in it, e.g. a sliver of rubber from the bead.

As the others have said, the metal braided thing is an extension hose, so try it without that attached. The valve stem itself is really sturdy and running a wire through after removing the internal dill valve shouldn't hurt anything. The only caveat to that is the screen used on the valves for the Equal & Dynabeads - you don't want to puncture that if it can be avoided. A hole in the screen defeats the purpose of having it. However, if the screen is clogged anyway, it doesn't really make much difference.
 
Another possibility is the extension hose is not properly / fully installed. Same action as Gary recommended, remove extension and check with just the stem.
Bob
 
This evening I tried to get the hub caps off so I could check the braided hose.  To my surprise I wasn't able to do it.  I did not raise the wheel, so I was wondering if the weight of the MH is causing the hub cap to bind on the rim.  I haven't tried raising it yet to see if that is the problem.  Any suggestions, what the trick?
 
sluggermike said:
This evening I tried to get the hub caps off so I could check the braided hose.  To my surprise I wasn't able to do it.  I did not raise the wheel, so I was wondering if the weight of the MH is causing the hub cap to bind on the rim.  I haven't tried raising it yet to see if that is the problem.  Any suggestions, what the trick?
Click to expand...
On my hub caps, there are 10 phony chrome lug nuts. 2 of them (opposing each other). I have to pull them off with a pliers. That exposes a nut that has to be removed to free up the hub cap. Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the information on the phony lug nuts.  I will check it out tomorrow.  I once owned a Ford Aerostar that had hub caps that looked like rims.  I took out my pneumatic impact wrench and proceeded to remove what I thought was a chrome lug nut.  It turned out it was a phony lug nut and it broke off.  I felt stupid at the time, and since then I always check out the wheels very carefully before removing the lug nuts.
 
Note that I don't know what coach you have nor wheel cover type. But if like mine, if you pull off the "fake chrome cover" to reveal the nut you will damage them and they cost about $9 each plus shipping. :'(
Mine are designed to unbolt like a regular chrome lug nut with the cover left on. The two that are supposed to be removed are noticeable by the two horizontal groves on two of the six sides. The other fake nuts do not have groves; if you turn them they can come loose from the wheel cover and rattle.
My covers were very difficult get off after having tires replaced last fall...took a breaker bar and 1 1/8" socket to remove. The little T-handle tool that came with the coach was not enough.
Good luck
Bob
 
Please don't be so mysterious. Wheels, wheel covers and lug nuts come in many different types and sizes. What year/make/model of coach are we talking about, sluggermike?
 
I am trying to take the covers off of a 2004 Fleetwood Tara, 32 S.  Thanks for all the input. 
 
Mike the real key to us trying to help is that you have a Ford chassis.  I'm not sure if you have the 10 or 8 lug wheels, but it really doesn't matter.

The wheel (hub caps) simulators that you have are made by DICOR.  If you'll look where the valve stem is located on the outboard dual, you will see that the valve for the inboard dual is located directly opposite (across the center of the wheel).  The two chrome fake lug nuts directly along the line between the stems are the two that need to be removed first.  Use your channel lock pliars to grip these nuts and pull/wiggle them off.  You will see two actual nuts underneath these fakes.  Remove those with the proper sized socket and the wheel simulator will come right off.

The holes in the actual wheels are larger than those in the simulators and should allow you to reach the stem for the inboard wheel.
 
I found the fake lug nuts.  i tried taking them off by wiggling them with an adjustable pair of pliers.  I tried it on all wheels.  I couldn't get them to budge.  I'm wondering if they are threaded and that I need to use a socket wrench to remove them?
 
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